Gasoline - Geo - Prizm :: 1996 - Excessive Fuel Consumption And Squeaking
Feb 27, 2011
I have a 1996 Geo Prizm, with about 126K miles. I bought it last May, at around 120,000 miles and had no problems with it until recently, other than some minor issues with the power steering in November. In November, it started making a squeaking or grinding noise whenever I went around a sharp turn. It turned out that the power steering fluid was slightly low, so I added more and that was the end of that problem. But I also found out that the previous owner had put the wrong kind of power steering fluid in. Starting about 2 weeks ago, the car started making a squeaking or squealing noise. There would be no squeaking when I started the car, but then it would start when I turned. It is only audible when the engine is idling, and I'm not sure if it is squealing at other times, too.
I figured it was probably one of the belts, probably the power steering belt. However, I checked it and it seemed to be tight enough and did not appear cracked or glazed. A friend of mine who knows much more about cars than I do also checked the power steering, alternator, and A/C compressor pumps for me, and he said they seemed fine. About the same time the squeaking started, I noticed the car seemed to be burning a lot more fuel than usual. I have filled up the gas tank twice since then. Typically, throughout this winter, the car has gotten 33-36 miles per gallon. But on the last tank, it only got 25 MPG and it got 29 MPG on the tank before that. There has been no change in my driving habits to explain this. The engine also sounds slightly rough when it is idling, almost like a diesel engine, but no louder than the car usually sounds. My friend who checked the belts listened to it when it was idling, and he thought he heard a slight knocking sound, which I heard too.
I noticed no decline in performance: the car accelerates just as quickly as ever, and performs the way it always has. The power steering seems to function just fine, despite the squeaking. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with the timing belt, and that might explain both the squeaking and the increased fuel burn. But I looked online at a few websites, and it sounds like timing belts usually don't show any symptoms when they are wearing out, they usually just fail without much warning. Also, when I bought the car, the previous owner said the timing belt was replaced at around 90K, so it should be fine for a while. I am at a loss as to what might be wrong with the car. I wonder if the squeaking and the increased fuel burn are caused by the same problem, or if there might be separate problems causing each.
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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I just read in Reader's Digest that some can improve gas mileage by 25% by not putting their car in reverse. This seems like an exaggeration, how can putting a car in reverse be that bad.... like 25% bad? Source: [URL] .....
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Prius start consuming excessive engine oil.
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What is considered to be excessive oil consumption in regards to the TSB issued by Toyota for the 2.4L engine. Mine is using 2+ quarts per 5000 mile interval. It isn't leaking, so it has to be burning it somehow. It doesn't smoke visibly, but that is a lot of oil IMO (my Harley doesn't use nearly as much).
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm - a Toyota Corolla clone. It has about 50K miles and uses oil at the rate of about 1 quart every couple hundred miles. You'd think if the oil was being burned, it would leave a trail of smoke behind the car - or at least, the rear of the car would be covered with oil. Or if there was a leak, the underside of the car would be covered with it.
Nope, neither of those cases. No drips in the driveway, the underside is clean, no smoke. The only trace is that around the exhaust is a small amount of oily dirt - but it seems only slightly excessive - certainly not in proportion to the amount I am using. Where the oil is going?
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I bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
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So I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
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I have a 2001 Jetta GL 2.0... For the past could of months I have had a mysterious oil problem. I constantly have to put oil in. I have changed it. Always put in the correct amount, right around 4qts. I have changed the head gasket, no leak there anyways and there still isn't a leak. I checked the exhaust and I'm not burning oil. I am completely stumped. What else could be happening to the oil? I just changed my oil about 1200 miles ago and I have already added another 2qts. That is just insane. I have gotten to the point where I am checking my oil every single time I drive to work and back, daily. I do all my own work and have never once noticed any leaks of any type. Something is sneaking by me though.
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I have a 2001 oldsmobile aurora 78,000 miles on original motor. the car misfires , backfires underhood,and excessive gas consumption, also sounds terrible at the rear exhaust. 3.5l motor issue stated after i filled up at cheap gas station.
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A question during the show this week (1/22/2011) was whether it used more gasoline to idle in gear or in neutral with an automatic transmission. The answer was it makes little difference. I contend the engine uses more fuel idling in neutral. The reason is the increased level of partial vacuum within the intake manifold means more air and fuel will be drawn into the engine. When the vehicle is in gear, the engine idles slower, less vacuum, less fuel used.
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I'm in the market for a Prius and I read on carcomplaints that the 2010 model has excessive oil consumption issues. When I searched for more info about this issue, it seems that it occurs in the other model years as well. I'm wondering if I should avoid the 2010 model when looking for a used Prius, or if the trend on carcomplaints is incorrect and this issue is no worse on this model year than others. Did Toyota switch to a different piston ring in this year or are they all the same in the gen 3s?
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Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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I presently drive a 1996 GEO PRISM. My airbag light stays on while driving, cuts off when engine is turned off. Apparently I have a short somewhere.Which means that the codes can not be reset.
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So, my 2005 Gen II Prius went for a scheduled service on Wednesday, 70k miles, Toyota main dealer. They called and said it needed new front brake pads and disks, I was surprised but gave the go ahead. There would occasionally have been a mild squealing sound from the brakes at very low speed so I accepted the pads might need replacing, I was surprised the disks needed replacing but it hard to argue about brakes, especially as I only have the car a year (I'm the second owner and it has a full Toyota service history). It had a "major" service, new spark plugs, new front brake pads and disks.
Since collecting it I've noticed that the engine seems to kick in more often and needs higher revs. The fuel consumption seems higher, normally mid 50's MPG (imperial gallon) now 35MPG. However it hasn't been driven many miles since its been serviced so its a low distance for calculating MPG. I've also noticed that the car seems to slow more quickly without applying the brakes, a regularly driven hill that I coast down at 48kph now only gives 35kph. Also, if I drive on a flat road for a mile or 2 and coast to a stop the front brake disks feel VERY hot, way too hot to touch, drivers side more so that passenger side.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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What is the hourly fuel consumption for a Toyota Prius at idle? Purpose is keep cabin warm for 8 hours. Would this damage engine?
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i have done mechanic work most of my life and can't figure out whats happening with this car. it'll idle fine but when u give it fuel it's like it cuts out. have changed fuel pump,timing,and checked most sensors?! 2000 chevy prizm twin cam toyota motor same as corolla.
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