Gasoline - Cabriolet - Volkswagen :: 2011 - Gas Leaking From Turned Off Car?
Mar 14, 2011
I recently rented a lovely studio apartment that the home owners built above their double garage. Both of their cars are parked in the garage every night. From the Cabriolet (20 years old) comes a powerful smell of gas after the car is turned off, which rises to my apartment. Opening the windows doesn't even work. It seems like this powerful odor is coming up through the floor and through the windows. What is the problem with this vehicle that it should be emitting such heavy fumes? By the way, their other car is a 2011 Sentra, which doesn't seem to have any bearing on this problem.
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I have a 1976 Volkswagon Bus with automatic transmission and the 2000 cc engine. It was running fine one day, we pull it into the garage for the night, and the next morning it won't start. There is a heavy smell of gasoline in the garage now.
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I wouldn't think so. Had the HPFP installed yesterday, a rebuilt/record, at a local reputable shop. They'd previously flashed the car and installed the VWR intake.
Didn't notice any issues yesterday upon driving home or afterward -- I parked the car and didn't use it again until this AM, when I drove a little around town. Parked the car for about an hour, and when I got back to it, smelled gasoline. Drove home, and smelled it again.
Just opened the hood and the pump is dripping a little gas -- the knurled knob is wet with it, and the wiring harness directly below is wet with it.
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My '10 Golf TDI started leaking gasoline this morning, found smallish puddle in the garage. Looked underneath and there was definitely fuel on the underside of the tank. Moved the car into the driveway so the leaking fuel can evaporate.
Not sure what happened. I did hit something on the highway yesterday, a piece of tire from a semi went underneath the car. Of course it's been really hot 100+ deg lately. Maybe a fitting has come loose?
I'm not going to risk driving it, but can't do anything about it until monday. I'll call the shop and see what they recommend, tow or drive.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
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I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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2003 VW Eurovan VR-6 died while driving as if the key was turned off. The van was running great before this episode. Now, van will start, but die after about 4 secs. Changed fuel pump relay, engine control module relay, and will run with stater fluid sprayed in throttle body. Fuel pump or perhaps immobilizer?
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
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I have a 2000 VW Beetle with about 95,000 miles on it. This morning we drove it with the spare key that we haven't used in months. It ran a little rough, and when I turned a corner it seemed to make a creaking-like noise (mostly during any weight shift). This afternoon after driving it during the day a few times and putting gas in it, I drove it home from work on the highway, about 1 mile from home at a stop light the car sputtered and the check engine light went on. It continued running and I drove to the mechanic and had the code read, it came out as 1612. They said it was possibly something with the ECM... what this means? Is it just a coincidence that my spare key was being used? Is it a misfire? Something with the electrical system...
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We have a 2001 VW Golf w/100K+ miles and the power steering fluid's leaking. Mechanic says a new rack/pinion and steering gear is needed. The estimate is $1K which troubles us because of the market value of the car isn't great. So, in the meantime, I tried "Lucas Stop Leak" and it seems to work (when the fluid was completely empty, it was making that loud screeching noise). Seeing that this is a 2nd "back-up" car, my questions are these:
1) Is it a bad idea to use Lucas (topping it off w/VW-approved steering fluid)? We rather donate the car than than to pay for the repairs. Some internet searches indicate that a lot of people drive around with a bottle of Lucas in their trunk. That is, that they avoid the repairs by using Lucas
2) Is it dangerous to drive the car? I notice the alignment is off and that re-alignment is part of the repair job. Can I have the re-alignment done?
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Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
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Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
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I have been having electrical issues with my 2001 manual transmission Jetta. At times I turn the car off, remove the key and the radio stays on, trip mileage and clock will reset. I also had where I was at a stopped at a traffic light and the ABS, engine light, and another light (not sure which one, it was too fast) flashed on for half a second. What should be looked at first and possible changed?
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Ok, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
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My Jetta is leaking gas like a sieve when the fuel pump starts. Its pretty obvious where its coming from. What this part is called or if there is more to it than just replacing it. Its coming from the round looking part on the fuel rail. Let me know what you think.
2000 Jetta 2.0 GLS Manual
[URl] ....
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I have a 2011 Jetta 5 spd, was driving today and suddenly I could not shift in 4th, 5th or reverse. This is the first time this as happen, I have never had any issues with the far. I don't know much about transmissions. The clutch seems to be working fine as I can shift with ease from 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
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I have had the car sense it was brand new and sense I have had it I have had this problem. I mostly notice a problem soon after starting the engine up and come to a stop, but is not limited to that all the times. When I come to a stop the car will feel like it is struggling to maintain an idle as I sit at the light or stop sign and it will actually shake the car a bit. I have noticed when it does do this the fan is on and it might be related to having the alternator trying to keep up with power draw.
I have noticed a loss of power when I am driving down the road it will cut out for maybe a half a second and come back. Usually doesn't happen more than once in one trip. I have brought it to the dealership multiple times to try and see if the can hunt down a problem but it keeps coming back with a clean bill of health. So my question is it something that is normal with diesel engines or is it something that I should take a further look at.
And while on the topic of diesel engines, my uncle a mechanic for diesel engines suggested that I spray a small amount of propane into the air intake to burn up sludge to keep the engine relatively clean. Need to get second opinion of that idea before I try it?
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We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
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