Ford - Zx2 :: Horn Stuck In On Position
Mar 3, 2012
Recently my car horn became stuck in the on position even though I was not driving the car or using the horn. In fact, it got stuck in the middle of the night!! To stop the horn, I simply removed the fuse for the horn, but I was curious what sort of issue would cause this problem and what should be done to fix it.
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I have a 2003 V12 Phaeton with 50k miles. Wonderful car to drive but unending series of electrical and mechanical problems. On FM, the sound completely stopped. The receiver seems to be working since all radio stations are displayed on the screen. But there is no sound. AM and CD both work. The dealer took a look and told me that they couldn't pinpoint the problem and that I would have to replace the entire entertainment console.
Unrelated but also annoying, all within the last month: the horn stopped working (dealer can't figure out why), one of the windshield wipers stuck in the up position, drainage canals plugged resulting in backseat flooding after a heavy rain that shorted electrical connections in rear seat (the dealer said this was a widespread "design defect" in Phaetons and Audi A8's) and front passenger seat heater shorted burning a hole in the leather (and, almost, my wife's rear).
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I went to drive my truck last night and when I started it up somehow the horn got stuck on. The Ford emblem in the steering wheel has come off before and I think some of the tabs that hold the emblem in place are floating around behind the horn cover. How do I take it apart and short term, where do I find the horn under the hood to disconnect it?
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My daughter's 2004 F150 has a horn problem. She used it the other day and it would not stop blowing. Someone unplugged it for her. When I checked it out and re-plugged it in it still continues to blow. Question is where do I begin. Does this have a horn relay? Do I have to remove the air bag to access the connections under the pad? I own a 1985 F150 and mine is much simpler.
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We also noticed when depressing the horn to actuate it in the straight position, there is hardly any movement. When in a rotated position, there is a definite actuating movement or depression of the horn. There something happening when it's a straight position, the horn is being prevented from making contact so the horn will work.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 truck. My vent selector is stuck in the 'dash vent' position. I can't switch it to defrost, floor, or anything else. This past winter I noticed that heat would blow well but only through the dash vents. Now that summer is well underway I noticed that the AC blows through the dash vents also, but it doesn't blow very cold. I checked the freon, topped it off (didn't overfill), and still have the same issue. I checked the fuses and all are good also.
Of course, moving the selector to Max AC doesn't work either. Does this all point to the blend door motor? I hope not as the reading I have done means that this is one tough project to tackle.
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The sunroof on my 99 ford taurus has a dead motor as of yesterday and it's going to rain today! It is stuck in the tilted up position, is there anyway to manually close it until it can be repaired?
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
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Weirdest thing happened this morning. I went to start the car and the horn was immediately on. I figured maybe the steering wheel was stuck. Anyways it went for a bit then while I was on the highway it came on and stayed on. People were looking while I'm going 60mph with the horn blasting. Anyways it went off on its own. I checked the fuse today and it is blown. I no longer have a horn. Why this happened? I will take the steering wheel off tomorrow to check the grounds.
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I haven't used my gn ball for probably 3 years went to pull it out and flip it over to use it and it is stuck solid. Tried pb blaster trans fluid hammering on it jacking the truck up by it heating it and no go. How to get it out.
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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Took my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
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Any trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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I just bought my kia from its first owner and love it. However, one of the first issues I came across was when I tried to turn the car off and the key stuck in the ACC position. I've had this happen nearly half the time I turn the key. My best fix for it is to turn the car back over and continue to try turning it off. Sometimes it needs a forceful turn to get it to work. I brought it to the dealership and they "couldn't duplicate it" but factored out it being an issue with the stealing deterrent the car has built in. My husband hasn't had issue with it either so now they are looking at me. I swear it happens a lot! I've tried turning the wheel, lifting the key in the process of the turn, being gentler with the turn, everything. It's still happening.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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I went to close my sunroof yesterday and it wouldn't close.. Right now it's stuck in the up position.. i checked all my fuses but don't know what one is for the sunroof.
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