we just replaced a pressure hose that broke and now the engine light blinks 30 times and then goes off and then blinks again plus the engine seems to be shaking allot.
View 1 Replies2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4L ... Dealership unable to locate replacement pressure hose for power steering . I've returned 3 wrong parts. The hose in pic goes all the way up to the reservoir.
View 13 RepliesHow to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
View 2 RepliesOn the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
View 19 RepliesI have a great running 98 Windstar. It does not overheat. The oil looks like it needs to be changed but it is not Coffee Colored, as the picture. The PCV valve looks clean, and rattles. I replaced the small 2 inch hose at the PCV valve on the back valve cover since it looked weak in the middle and may have been collapsing. I no longer get the big puddles of OIL/WATER on the ground, that I use to. I cleaned the oil/water out of the Intake Hose of the Throttle Body, but I still see some of the mixture underneath the Air Instake hose after a long drive.
I will go by the Ford dealer and buy another PCV valve, and replace the small curved hose going to the top of the engine near the Throttle Body that the other end of the PCV connects. Someone suggested that this could be cracked, and it does have some small cracks in it at the bend.
I have read that the 99-00 had a design problem with the Valve Cover, and it allowed oil to be sucked out and give similar problem. But since this is a 98, I am just looking for pinched hoses, or leaks. Car runs great, and hoping that I can find the reason that oil is being sucked into the air intake.
Do I have it correct that during normal operation, that the moisture and gases are sucked up out of the engine thru the PCV and into the top of the engine. And that the other Valve cover hose is going in the other direction or from the throttle body to the Valve cover?
Just trying to determine if the oil/moisture mixture is coming from the front or rear (PCV) valve cover. Getting no codes on the engine.
Twice now (and maybe a third time once I start my van again) we've had problems with the van chugging and then the service engine light blinking. Both times it happened in the past, we took it to a mechanic who said it needed a tune-up - new spark plugs, wires, etc. I'm curious as to why this keeps happening. Mileage is around 105K. It first happened last summer, second time was in December. Now it's March. What could cause this problem to repeat?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
View 1 RepliesDrivers window not working .. I pulled panel and checked voltage at motor when switch was activated 12.8 volts on this vehicle. Is just the motor changed or the whole window mechanism. If so, what are the steps ...
View 2 RepliesMy windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
View 11 RepliesRemoving the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
View 6 RepliesMy orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
View 14 RepliesHad a coolant leak I finally traced to the rubber hose on an egr delete (previous owner installed, not sure of brand). Looks like the jackwagon who installed it cranked the clamps way too tight and they eventually split the hose. I have a piece of heater hose that looks like the right diameter and cut to size should fit fine. I guess I am just looking for some reassurance that it would be ok to use in that situation...
View 3 RepliesJust had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
View 4 RepliesSo I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
Today I noticed a leak at the heater hose assembly at the right rear of the engine compartment. It appears to have special connectors and that appears to be where the leak is coming from.
View 1 RepliesI can't find canister pressure valve hose. It looks cut from the pressure valve in some way. Tried following it from gas tank but I've lost it through the chassis.
View 4 RepliesWhen my 2001 Echo is in drive and I am stopped, the air filter box and that whole assembly as well as the intake hose shakes and vibrates and makes a noise. It doesn't happen in neutral or park or when I start driving. Also, when I was looking at this, I could see that when the car is put into or out of gear the engine moves slightly, is this normal?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?