Ford - Windstar :: AC Blowing Hot When Idling
Jul 20, 2012
I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and the A/C has started blowing hot when i idle but it blows cold when I am driving. I had the compressor replaced back in February and the pressure is normal so it doesn't look like it has a system leak. If I am at a traffic light, I can put the van in neutral and press the gas and it will start blowing cold again. Since I just spent $1300 a few months ago when my compressor seized, I really hope it is not an expensive fix.
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diagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
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I had a spark plug break on me and it caused a misfire. I took it in and the mechanic replaced all spark plugs and wires. After getting the car back, I experience an occasional engine hiccup here and there. Took it back to the mechanic and told me that he cleaned off the valves of carbon build up. This did not alleviate the current symptoms. It is more noticeable while I am idling. It feels like a jolt. It appears to be worse after a cold start. I do not have a check engine light or do I notice the RPM needle go wild. What is the mechanic missing? What could still be wrong with the engine? Vehicle is a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE, 6cyl, 3.8L ....
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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2001 Ford Windstar rear auxiliary unit will not blow hot or cold air. The front system works fine with very cold or very hot air as needed.The system has been in this state for the past four years.Last month I had a local shop evacuate the refrigerant and then I replaced the following A/C components (compressor, front orifice tube, rear expansion valve, receiver dryer, and condenser). The shop then recharged the system and the front blows ice cold air...amazing! Unfortunately the rear system just doesn't want to blow any air, hot or cold. To date I have completed the following checks:
Relays
- Front cabin relays #3 and #6 were swapped with no change to front system.
- Rear unit relays make a clicking sound when either front or rear control panels set blower motor speed.
-- I swapped out with front and rear cabin blower motor relays with no change to front blower motor.
Engine Compartment - Both 40A fuses were checked (117 & 120).They are supposed to be 40A fuses but my box had 50A in both places.It had been like this for years with both systems working fine up until the rear unit ceased working.(NOTE: maybe this is coincidence but when I changed these from 50A to 40A my son noticed that some of the rear tail lights stopped working. in fact all of them associated with fuse #7 located in the passenger cabin.)
Fuses - all related fuses were checked and are fine.As noted above the distribution box fuses were changed from 50A to 40A with no detrimental effect on the front system working.
Front Control Panel
- Heat and air work fine (blower and temp controls)
- Front control panel appears to change rear unit temperature setting but only one of blend door actuators adjust when changing temperature setting
-- The one closest to the blower motor does not function.The one that directs air to floor or ceiling functions properly.
-- Shouldn't they move together based on the temp setting?
- Front control panel blower motor settings only result in hearing a clicking noise for each setting.
- Setting front control panel to REAR CTRL allows rear control panel to function.
Rear Control Panel
- Temperature settings - same result as front control panel with blend door actuators.
- Blower motor settings - same result as front control panel.
Rear Auxiliary Unit
- Expansion valve makes a hissing sound on A/C or Defrost settings.
- Blower motor was removed and benched tested for operation.
-- Electrical connection looks fine and seats snug.
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My 99 windstar has seemed to have issues every month since it's been paid off! Isn't that how it goes....anyway,
Just recently the heat suddenly stopped working. The fan is blowing and the temp controls seem to function correctly. There is no heat coming from the front and some IS coming from the back.
What could the problem be? Blend door, actuator, motor, evaporator core?
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Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
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While driving down the highway, my Ford Windstar van just quit! The battery is new and the lights stayed on. About 10 minutes later the engine turned over again and I drove it to a Ford shop. They put the computer on it, but nothing showed up. What could cause a vehicle engine to just quit while going 40 MPH down the road?!
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I have a 1996 Ford Windstar, 3.8 L, with 200,000 mostly highway miles that has had regular maintenance. Recent repairs include new plugs, fuel filter, and air induction flush.
The van has a sporadic miss with the check engine light flashing at times, both at town and highway speeds. Other times, the engine light is on steadily. There is a noticeable reduction in the miss after adding a gas cleaning additive.
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MY 2003 Windstar has 77,000 miles on it. I recently switched mechanics. When I went for the last oil change they said I had oil leaks and recommended they do a dye test to see where the leaks are, I agreed. They found 3 leaks: front crankshaft seal - $138, Oil Pan Gasket - $373 and Timing Cover & Or Gasket - $960. They said from a priority stand point the oil pan leak should be fixed. I really don't want to put a lot of money into it because there are some any things as well. I use it mainly for around town with some occasional long trips. And I haven't seen any oil under it when it has sat for a while. Is it a high probability while on a trip the oil pan could fail all at once? Will I get some warning the problem is getting worst by seeing oil under it when it's parked for awhile?
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The vehicle in question is a 2001 Windstar. The OBD Data Link Connection is not working properly. When I plug in my scanner it DOES power up and will read the ABS info, but will not read anything else.
The scanner is new, and a pretty good one for a DIYer, and I've tried it in other vehicles. I've also tried another reader that also didn't work on this van. So I don't think it's the scanner.
My Haynes manual has no info on how to wire a DLC or how to repair/replace one. How can I fix this?
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I was removing the camshaft position sensor and synchronizer unit on a 1998 ford windstar gl with 3.8L and the synchronizer bar feel off. The bar went back into the slot and i cannot get to it. How can i retrieve the bar? I tried using a magnet. Can I access the bar from the oil pan if i remove it?
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I have a 2001 ford windstar the codes are bank 1 lean (wires have been cut) could this cause the miss fire on the #1 and 3 cylinders? The previous owner put copper plugs in it instead of platinum. How hard is it to change the plugs?
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My 1999 ford windstar died last month while driving. No signs no symptoms just shut off while driving. Towed it to a mechanic paid $400 for a new fuel pump. I get it back and still having problems. The van dies while driving at any speeds. I've had it shut off when starting to stop at stop signs and I've had it shut off while driving 60. Each time I put it in park it starts up just fine. I took it in to get a computer check and all that it said is rich fuel. So they told me o2 sensor. Two mechanics have informed me o2 sensor would not cause those problems.
Recently someone told me ignition coil was their problem on a truck they had having the same problems. So I watched a YouTube video and I think I can do it myself. Let me just say I don't know anything about cars but it looks simple and I am not willing to sink money on mechanics that clearly themselves can't figure out the problems. Am I right to change the coil or do any of you think it might be something else? I don't want to waste my time if it's not the coil. I have had this van for 3 months. I got for $800 and have now paid about $800 in repairs. Its a good van but im Not paying out more so from here on out this is my let's learn about fixing my own car car. I've read some threads about also changing the spark plugs or the coil will break again I'm also think I can do that as well. Again do you think this is the right track or is it maybe something else.
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I have a vehicle that I was hoping would make it to the end of the year or so with because of credit issues. I just within the past week or less, am experiencing delayed shifting into 1st gear from stop, and a hard shift into second, then gears 3-5 seem to be much smoother. I went to check to see if my transmission fluid was low, and it is very thin, watery and milky in color. I have 149,000 miles on it almost, and the fluid was never changed that I am aware of when I got it with 78,000+ miles.( I didn't know I needed to do it within the next 50,000 or so.) I've been told by regular mechanics at NTB tire that it was already too late (2 yrs ago) and just keep putting fluid in and should be ok.
Well now it's not, and my question is this, can I have the fluid changed at this point at all, is it possible that it could just seize up the transmission for good? I also don't know if I should continue to drive it or what.
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The transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.
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Are both necessary?
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My '00 Windstar has recently begun to exhibit some curious instrument panel behavior in the form of dancing gauges. All gauges are affected simultaneously - temp, tach, speedo and fuel - quickly swinging from stop to stop in no apparent pattern. This will go on for a few seconds to a couple of minutes, then they resume normal operation. It may occur again on the same trip or not for a week or so. There are no other symptoms, no CEL, no obvious trigger or apparent after-affects, the van runs fine. The battery is fairly new and quite strong. Is this likely just a ground issue? Where would I start to look?
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar, mileage 61,234, garage kept and in excellent condition.On 6/30/12, I went to take the car out but the system was completely dead. We put a charge on the battery overnight to no avail. We then replaced with a new battery and it started right up (7/1/12). The car ran well until 7/18/12 (17 days) when the system again was completely dead.
This time I had the car towed to the Ford garage where they kept it for 2 days and could not find a problem. They installed another new battery (charging parts and labor). The car drove well again until 8/15/12 (less than a month) when the stsyem was dead again.
The car was towed back to the Ford garage and kept for another 2 days. They said the electrical system was checked completely and they could find nothing wrong. They put a charge on their battery and told me to drive the car at least twice a week. That's where we stand at this time.
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we have a 2000 Windstar that has chattering brakes...what is the cause of this?
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