Ford - Windstar :: 2003 - Transmission Is Seized Up?
May 22, 2013
I have a vehicle that I was hoping would make it to the end of the year or so with because of credit issues. I just within the past week or less, am experiencing delayed shifting into 1st gear from stop, and a hard shift into second, then gears 3-5 seem to be much smoother. I went to check to see if my transmission fluid was low, and it is very thin, watery and milky in color. I have 149,000 miles on it almost, and the fluid was never changed that I am aware of when I got it with 78,000+ miles.( I didn't know I needed to do it within the next 50,000 or so.) I've been told by regular mechanics at NTB tire that it was already too late (2 yrs ago) and just keep putting fluid in and should be ok.
Well now it's not, and my question is this, can I have the fluid changed at this point at all, is it possible that it could just seize up the transmission for good? I also don't know if I should continue to drive it or what.
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I purchased a 1964 9 inch from a Galaxie 500 to use in my 51 merc M1. The drums were seized onto the axle shaft and after trying everything, I was forced to break them up with a sledge to get them off. The axles turn freely and I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the shafts to the housing flanges. The axles should slide right out but the do not. Am I missing something? How do I pull them if they don't budge?
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The transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.
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Ford Windstar 2001. Auto transmission oil leaking
What I have done : Refill and observed what happen, leaking still. I changed the gasket & filter. The leaking persists.
I found bulletin service about water entering, causing ECM to give wrong measuring stick level. I fixed, according to bulletin TSB 14-06-10. It is leaking still.
There is another bulletin about the same problem: TBS 05-14-5. This bulletin is about the transaxle vent being obstructed.It is leaking a lot of oil.
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I have had the absolute worst experience with my 2010 Toyota Sienna that has 66K miles. The transmission gears seized (completely locked up) while I was driving down the road, causing such friction/tension that it exploded through the top of the cover of the transmission. Parts of the transmission were falling out of the car and the transmission fluid completely emptied onto the road. This created an incredibly dangerous situation.
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I have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
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So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
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I went to change the small filter that is mounted just behind the radiator and is inline with the 5r100 . with a socket on the bottom all i was able to do was flex the brackets going to the 3 mounting bolts as this thing is on there real good. Looking for examples on unthreading the bottom cup to access filter?
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I noticed leakage of transmission oil leaking between the engine and the transmission of my windstar 2000 280 K miles. No driving issue, no flashing OD light. I am keeping the level.
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MY 2003 Windstar has 77,000 miles on it. I recently switched mechanics. When I went for the last oil change they said I had oil leaks and recommended they do a dye test to see where the leaks are, I agreed. They found 3 leaks: front crankshaft seal - $138, Oil Pan Gasket - $373 and Timing Cover & Or Gasket - $960. They said from a priority stand point the oil pan leak should be fixed. I really don't want to put a lot of money into it because there are some any things as well. I use it mainly for around town with some occasional long trips. And I haven't seen any oil under it when it has sat for a while. Is it a high probability while on a trip the oil pan could fail all at once? Will I get some warning the problem is getting worst by seeing oil under it when it's parked for awhile?
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Drivers window not working .. I pulled panel and checked voltage at motor when switch was activated 12.8 volts on this vehicle. Is just the motor changed or the whole window mechanism. If so, what are the steps ...
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My 2003 windstar SEL needed new brakes and to have the rotors turned... instead I opted to buy new discs and pads online ... To my surprise the new discs were about a 16th of an inch thinner than the old.... I changed discs and pads and was happy for a few days, but now on occasion when coming to a stop the front brakes grind terribly....the next time i stop everything is fine...visa versa...dscs feel true (no pulsing) I DID APPLY BRAKE QUIET TO THE BACKS OF PADS....
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
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It is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
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Well, I decided to take on the dreaded task of replacing the lower manifold intake gaskets and put in new isolator bolts. It was a major undertaking, and when I finally finished the oil change and fired up the car, it sounded fine. Then I checked under the hood.
I saw coolant spurting out the side of one of the hose connections that I had to take off and put back on. I thought the gasket on it looked pretty worn, but wasn't expecting this!
Unfortunately I don't know the name of the hose connection to pick up a gasket at the store ... it's the larger lower hose that is bolted on to the lower intake, not the hose slightly above it that has the plastic clips.
What is the name of this hose connection so I can try and find one at the store? It's a 2003 Windstar model.
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2002 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6L . Ok, 140,000 miles and Engine is seized. Got truck for cheap. So, my problem is this: most salvage yards say that the ONLY engine that will fit into my truck is from an 2002 explorer 4.6L or a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6L.
Others say the mustang engine or F150 will fit. Can I have other options for a engine swap?
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I have a 04 f150 and the rear rotors are seized on and how to get them off WITHOUT destroying the rotors. i need to work on the ebrakes.
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I haven't been on for a while but new issue my AC won't work the compressor is not seized it just wont come on checked all the fuses and tried to check the wiring but it is so short then it go's into the main wiring harness is there a way to see if it is the compressor or not some way to test it? It is on my 2002 explorer 4.0l vin "E" eddie bower.....
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I just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
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