On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
View 19 RepliesI have an 02 passat with about 85K and the other day my windows would not clear up and a faint smell of antifreeze. also when temp control is in cool and you move the temp control to warm steam comes out of vents. I need to know if i could change this myself and if any procedure on how to do it.
View 3 RepliesI had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
I have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2002 Ford Windstar, it has over 154,000 miles on it. My problem is I got a ODB II code reader and it said that the Intake manifold on the left bank is stuck in the open position. How do I keep it from sticking.
View 15 RepliesI have a 08 f-150 with a 5.4. Started smelling anti-freeze in the cab, with that classic windshield haze of a leaking heater core. I don't have anything on the floor, nor is the engine heating up. Temp gauge is where it always is. This doesn't smell all the time.I just drove 4 1/2 hrs. with no problems. Other than the heater core ?
View 2 RepliesFound a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
2004 Nissan Quest... Leaking from right side of solenoid valve.
Should I replace valve or fix gasket? Where would it be leaking? From solenoid valve or heater coil? Lose 1 liter a week.
I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
View 2 RepliesSo I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
View 2 Replieswe just replaced a pressure hose that broke and now the engine light blinks 30 times and then goes off and then blinks again plus the engine seems to be shaking allot.
View 1 RepliesI have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
View 14 RepliesI am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2002 Dakota and have had a hard time ridding it. I thought that the heater core was leaking and getting the passenger side floor wet, but it's the overflow for the evaporator under the dash. The drain must be plugged. Will I have to remove the dash to pull the heater unit down far enough to clean it. I don't think I can do much from under the hood...too tight.
View 4 RepliesI just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
I have a great running 98 Windstar. It does not overheat. The oil looks like it needs to be changed but it is not Coffee Colored, as the picture. The PCV valve looks clean, and rattles. I replaced the small 2 inch hose at the PCV valve on the back valve cover since it looked weak in the middle and may have been collapsing. I no longer get the big puddles of OIL/WATER on the ground, that I use to. I cleaned the oil/water out of the Intake Hose of the Throttle Body, but I still see some of the mixture underneath the Air Instake hose after a long drive.
I will go by the Ford dealer and buy another PCV valve, and replace the small curved hose going to the top of the engine near the Throttle Body that the other end of the PCV connects. Someone suggested that this could be cracked, and it does have some small cracks in it at the bend.
I have read that the 99-00 had a design problem with the Valve Cover, and it allowed oil to be sucked out and give similar problem. But since this is a 98, I am just looking for pinched hoses, or leaks. Car runs great, and hoping that I can find the reason that oil is being sucked into the air intake.
Do I have it correct that during normal operation, that the moisture and gases are sucked up out of the engine thru the PCV and into the top of the engine. And that the other Valve cover hose is going in the other direction or from the throttle body to the Valve cover?
Just trying to determine if the oil/moisture mixture is coming from the front or rear (PCV) valve cover. Getting no codes on the engine.