Ford - Windstar :: 2002 - Grinding Noise Going Up Inclines
Sep 24, 2011
My 2002 Ford Windstar Van needs a rebuilt transmission. The chain, according to my mechanic, may quit at any time (the van makes a grinding noise going up inclines). In 2005 my van had the transmission rebuilt (it totally quit on me driving). It currently has 200, 030 miles on it. I've checked around and the best estimate for a rebuilt transmission. Is it worth keeping? Repairing? If not, do I try selling it (for what amount?)?
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i have a 1999 ford windstar with 73k miles. torque converter was replaced before I got it. (about ten thousand miles ago)my van gets a quick grinding noise from the front end that lasts only a second. it only happens when i start the car and then drive about 100 feet. if I shift to park and then back to drive it won't do it. only if the engine has been stopped and restarted (even if warmed up)the transmission doesnt slip, and shifts fine. I'd love some ideas before the expensive (and only) local mechanic starts digging around.
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After 3 months of complaining my wife finally got me in the van to do some errands. We came to a stop at a stop light and I hear this jack hammer noise start, lasts about 3 seconds and trails off. I am looking around the intersection, which is under construction, looking for a jack hammer and my wife says that's the noise that I have been talking about. This noise only occurs when the car is at a standstill after braking and recently happened twice when my wife stopped, released the brake and applied it again. The problem is getting progressively worse.Our mechanic's opinion is that is is a rpm sensor on one of the wheels which is sending a false signal to the ABS system to activate. Another opinion is that the master cylinder has moisture in it and needs to be flushed.This car has about 125m miles. What so I try first?
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My 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
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My 2003 windstar SEL needed new brakes and to have the rotors turned... instead I opted to buy new discs and pads online ... To my surprise the new discs were about a 16th of an inch thinner than the old.... I changed discs and pads and was happy for a few days, but now on occasion when coming to a stop the front brakes grind terribly....the next time i stop everything is fine...visa versa...dscs feel true (no pulsing) I DID APPLY BRAKE QUIET TO THE BACKS OF PADS....
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Bought a 02 Ranger, 4.0 4x4 super cab 122,000 miles. etc Picked it up for 500 bucks because someone scrapped it along the side of a guardrail this last winter. Replaced rack and Pinion (cracked), Tie rods, Shocks, driver side knuckle and wheel bearing, and some body issues (bed is still shot so if any black short bed sitting around let me know). I've been kind of putting around all day in it, letting it used to working again. Starts right up, turns easily, I string aligned it so it goes where I want.
But as I get up to speed start at about 10MPG there is a vibration based noise coming from the front, can't pin down if its left or right. If Im going straight then turn it gets slightly more intense as I even start turning the steering wheel. The noise increases with vehicle speed. And I don't know if its separate or related, but any turn over 5-10* to the left results in a grinding sound but then I turn to about 10-15 and it gets less intense. No noise turning right.
I'm thinking a bad CV, TWO bad CVs, or a bad differential. Before I start ripping into those things, thought I'd get opinions, or hopefully experience in this area. I'm really hoping its something small and stupid. (like not getting a professional alignment)
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
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Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar, mileage 61,234, garage kept and in excellent condition.On 6/30/12, I went to take the car out but the system was completely dead. We put a charge on the battery overnight to no avail. We then replaced with a new battery and it started right up (7/1/12). The car ran well until 7/18/12 (17 days) when the system again was completely dead.
This time I had the car towed to the Ford garage where they kept it for 2 days and could not find a problem. They installed another new battery (charging parts and labor). The car drove well again until 8/15/12 (less than a month) when the stsyem was dead again.
The car was towed back to the Ford garage and kept for another 2 days. They said the electrical system was checked completely and they could find nothing wrong. They put a charge on their battery and told me to drive the car at least twice a week. That's where we stand at this time.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar. Just replaced a TPS, went to town was coming back home, and all of a sudden it started to spit and sputter while in gear. But, in neutral she runs alright. I use mid-grade gas. I put in two cans of Seafoam in the tank. Wrecker operator smelled the exhaust and told me the it was too rich. My question is and this sounds stupid, could the previous owner. Had never replaced the fuel filter or if they did replaced it, that it was installed backwards. I drove it almost 20 miles before it died. I figured that the fuel in the gas line emptied and it refuse to go. And since it only runs good without strain on the engine...
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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2002 Saturn SL. My car is making "grinding" noises with each revolution of the tires. I brought it to a garage and they replaced the brake pads but the sound didn't go away. They told me it's okay, but I doubt it. On top of that, when I turn the wheel all the way there is a sound as if the front tires were touching some part of the car's body (but looking it myself, doesn't seem to be the case), and when the car moves I feel as if the car where stepping on something every time the front wheels complete one revolution.
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I bought a 2002 Ford Windstar, it has over 154,000 miles on it. My problem is I got a ODB II code reader and it said that the Intake manifold on the left bank is stuck in the open position. How do I keep it from sticking.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 and recently it will make a grinding noise at 3,200 rpm (in every gear). It sounds like you touched the side of a rotating drill on a piece of metal or something like that. The mechanic said it was my clutch but my clutch isn't showing any of the tail tail signs of it needing to be replaced and frankly I don't trust the guy. Will replacing the clutch fix this noise? Could it be something completely unrelated to my clutch?
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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My Ford Escape is now losing power when I drive up inclines. I can be driving 65 mph on the freeway, and then hit a point of incline, and I am down to about 50 mph by the time I reach the top of the incline, even when I'm hitting the gas hard. My AC wasn't on either. I'm not talking sharp inclines either...just not a completely flat road. No lights have come on, and the car isn't chugging when it's doing this. I just changed my fuel filter by the way and used a can of Seafoam a few days ago.
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I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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