Ford - Windstar :: 2000 - Sounds Like A Machine Gun When Press On Gas Pedal
Jan 27, 2013
About two days ago we were driving home and our van started to make a noise when we press on the gas pedal. it sounds like a machine gun under the hood. what can it be?
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I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
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2000 Windstar 3.8L sounds like a diesel engine (exactly like and old diesel) when it warms up. My girlfriend noticed the problem and checked oil and it was low, she added, and then when she started it the next day, sound was gone. While she was driving it came back and would stall out. When she got it home I checked and the coolant overflow was empty, I added water and it poured out on the front (passenger) side of the engine. I immediately assumed head gasket.
Once it cooled I started pulling the stuff out. Down to the head on the Right hand bank (front of car). There is oil in the coolant, but no coolant in oil, (or very very little). Found the coolant is leaking from water pump itself it looks like. where the lower rad hose goes into pipe for water pump. or on the flange seal for water pump. It is so tough to actually see where. It also looks like the intake gaskets were bad because of the dirty oily wet condition under the intake manifold.
The car only makes the noise when warm, when it is cold it runs just fine. Would just the water pump being bad and leaking coolant cause this problem, is it a bad head gasket, something else? If it is the head gasket, I cannot get the head bolts to break free. I didn't have a 15mm 1/2 drive, so used a 3/8 drive and the 1/2-3/8 adapter spun right off.
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Before I start, when I drive, and after I shut down (for 10 minutes) my 06 sounds like a machine gun is firing in the far distance, also a buzzing noise is happening. This continues when I drive the car as well. It drives me nuts!! See video for better representation of what I am talking about. Maybe it's the pump for the coolant pre tank but I don't see how this could be normal. This is my first prius, other than this noise the car is excellent.
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Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
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Today my Windstar would not start, it only start if I press on the accelerator if I let go it will die, I'm thinking of gas pump?
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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I replaced rear pads with akebomo and installed centric premium rotors but in the morning I hear a very loud noise (as loud as as a steam locomotive :-) for the first few times I press on the brake, then the sound goes away. After that, no hissing sound all day until next morning.
I used a brake silencer spray on the back of the pads but to no avail. I had the mechanic lube the pins twice but in vain. Noise went away for 3 days and came back.
I was told to go with OEM pads with shim. I was wondering if this the correct solution and where is the best place to get those OEM pads?
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My truck is experiencing a hard to press brake pedal. It comes and goes and does not seem to happen at any one time while driving. I know that my truck uses a vacuum pump and instantly replaced this as I figured that with the age of the truck it should be done. However even with a new vacuum pump it did nothing to correct my problem with a hard to press brake pedal. I inspected all the lines to ensure that they are holding pressure and replaced two of the three with new lines. Again it still did nothing to correct the issue. I do not have any leakage coming from the master cylinder and no hiding noise from the brake booster.
1996 F250 7.3l Diesel Turbo 270,000 miles Manual Transmission
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I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
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2005 Starts fine after first start. Ficm voltage 47 to 48 on Edge insight, stc replaced...
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I have a 1999 f250 that runs and drives great but the only issue I have is when I baby the gas pedal it stalls a little and when I give it more gas it's fine or if. I'm going 50mph then let off gas and then baby the pedal it's stalls a little.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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My '00 Windstar has recently begun to exhibit some curious instrument panel behavior in the form of dancing gauges. All gauges are affected simultaneously - temp, tach, speedo and fuel - quickly swinging from stop to stop in no apparent pattern. This will go on for a few seconds to a couple of minutes, then they resume normal operation. It may occur again on the same trip or not for a week or so. There are no other symptoms, no CEL, no obvious trigger or apparent after-affects, the van runs fine. The battery is fairly new and quite strong. Is this likely just a ground issue? Where would I start to look?
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we have a 2000 Windstar that has chattering brakes...what is the cause of this?
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I a 2002 ford windstar 3.8 engine. I need to put a new shift cable on it. And reconnect it to the transaxel range sensor or the netural safety switch. Not sure what i have on my van. But what i need to know is how to put it into park by hand to start the van, then how to put it into drive to drive the van. I need to get the van running the right way. Next month, I'll get them. but need to get around now. so how to shift the gears by hand.
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I have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
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I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
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My question is about a 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. Does this vehicle have a coolant temp sensor and sending unit or just a sensor?
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I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
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