Ford - Windstar :: 1999 Will Only Start If Press On Accelerator
Aug 15, 2013
Today my Windstar would not start, it only start if I press on the accelerator if I let go it will die, I'm thinking of gas pump?
View 2 RepliesToday my Windstar would not start, it only start if I press on the accelerator if I let go it will die, I'm thinking of gas pump?
View 2 Replies2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
About two days ago we were driving home and our van started to make a noise when we press on the gas pedal. it sounds like a machine gun under the hood. what can it be?
View 14 RepliesFord F-150, 1994 : intermittent problem. going down highway, foot on the gas. At times, will press accelerator to go faster but nothing happens, like clog somewhere. Sometimes, with foot still on gas, i will hear a popping sound coming from under the truck, (under the engine?, or drivers seat). Usually 4-5 pops, sometimes none. But after each pop, car accelerates slightly, as if it is a slight clearing, until finally, as if some clog was opened up, the car plunges forward, so i then take my foot off the gas. Sounds like either problem with fuel getting to the engine or a problem with the exhaust.
View 4 RepliesHave a problem with a stutter when I press the accelerator while going up hill. I even had this problem driving on a flat road but that was a 1 time thing and happens every time I go up hill. Had a coil replaced that came off of an '04 because one of mine went bad which caused it to shake whenever I came to a stop. Wondering if the coil has anything to do with it... 2007 5.4L ....
View 1 RepliesWhen I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Santa fe has a single knock when you press the accelerator, then between 60 and 70mph there is now a shake in the steering wheel. I have been told it is probably the CV joint and just wanted more input.
View 2 RepliesI'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
2007 with 85000 miles. This noise appeaser only between 64 to 69 miles/hours, either manually pressing pedal or when crus control is on. A/C on or off. Noise goes away as soon as i let off the gas pedal. the noise is not very load it sounds like, when mechanical fuel pump stars going bad.
View 5 RepliesIve been in this game 16 years have i never stumbled across this. The theft light blinks fast and no start. Ive change the key , key remote to cpu, and the cpu it self all programed properly still no start ....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Rav4 and every time I drive my car after it's been sitting for a while there is a very loud noise coming from the rear of the car, the noise usually lasts about 10 to 20 seconds and only happens when I press on the accelerator, and is always when I go forward, never in reverse. The noise is usually louder when it is humid or it is raining.
View 1 RepliesHad my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
On July 18 my 1999 Ford Windstar van was towed and diagnosed with a blown head gasket. I FINALLY got it back on Sept 4th and was told it was idling a little rough, but it was probably due to water that got in the catalytic converter and would work itself out. The next day we drove it about an hour away it was idling VERY rough and started to stall every time we came to a stop or tried to slowly pull into a parking spot. The following Monday September 8th it wouldn't start and the shop came and towed it back in. It's still there and they are saying they aren't sure what's wrong with it, but are assuring me the problem is unrelated to their repairs. Every time I call they continue to say they are working on it. Where do I go from here?!?!
View 10 RepliesI'm trying to get my neice car going. .I went to move her car yesterday after a snowstorm and it idled fine but would bog down when I pressed on the accelerator. While it was running I checked to see if the air filter was dirty, it was and as soon as I pulled the snorkel off the car stalled. I put everything back in place and after running for a half hour it seemed fine. She drove to school but before she got there it started to bog down again so she pulled into a Toyota dealer. Later they changed spark plugs, new air filter and cleaned MAF sensor. Worked better until the next day, now it will crank over but will not even make an attempt to start. I tried to clean the sensor with rubbing alcohol but no luck.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a new 2015 Santa Fe Sport 2.4L ... transmission/acceleration issue. It's possible I just haven't had enough time to get use to this car but it seems to hesitate when I press the accelerator. Also, the transmission seems to annoyingly down-shift when I step on the break slightly or with a slight decrease in speed. Overall I love the car but I just wanted to see if this is something I just need to get use to or if I should be concerned?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L. This problem started several weeks ago. When I turn on the ignition on the car, I hear a squeaking noise coming from the engine initially. Once the engine warms up, the squeaking sound lessen but does not go away. When I shift my automatic transmission to DRIVE, and press the accelerator, I hear squeaking noise coming from the engine again. I stopped my car and opened the hood. I could hear the squeaking noise coming from the front left of my car, if you are facing forward the front of the car. I do not know much about cars but I think it is coming from the fan belt/serpentine belt, or possibly alternator but I am really not sure.
Presently, the sound has gotten worse so I want to fix this as quickly as possible. I am second owner and the mileage on the car is 45,550.
I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
View 5 RepliesSo this is reason #345 why I should never have let my wife drive my F-350. I am in the Army, and I got a frantic call from my wife (I missed the first 7) saying that the truck died and won't start. I drive all the way to the truck, pop the hood and discover:
1) there is no coolant; and
2) there is no oil (actually just EXTREMELY low on both).
So, I do what any good Soldier does, I push the truck all the way back home (downhill mostly), buy 5 quarts of oil and a jug of 50/50 coolant, fill up both and try to start the engine.
The last time it ran out of oil (small leak on a seal that I didn't know about) in 2006, all I had to do was fill the oil, turn the key, and press the gas until it kicked over (don't judge me, I was a dumb LT). I did this again this time (now, I am a dumb CPT) but now it: 1) idles very rough; and 2) won't start unless I press down on the gas when I turn the key. There is no gauge light when it does this. I read the thread on the UVCH, but I am concerned I might have done something horrible to my truck.
2003 Ford F-350 7.3L
So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.