Ford - Windstar :: 1998 - Transmission Failed Sometimes
Apr 22, 2013
The transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.
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I was removing the camshaft position sensor and synchronizer unit on a 1998 ford windstar gl with 3.8L and the synchronizer bar feel off. The bar went back into the slot and i cannot get to it. How can i retrieve the bar? I tried using a magnet. Can I access the bar from the oil pan if i remove it?
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I have a 1998 ford Windstar with a 3.8 V.6 When I turn my lights on and drive it my lights flicker. I have checked all my grounds that I no of and my connections while driving my lights go dim when I let off the gas. but do not flicker any more. when I accelerate they begin to flicker again. I've had the alternator check and all is good. I have no clue.
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From cold, I start the van up, and if I just slightly crack the throttle it will start running rough. I think it goes away under heavier throttle...might just be that the rpms are up I can't feel it anymore, I don't know. It will idle just fine, and after it warms up it also seems fine. Where to look?Also I sometimes hear a very small, high pitched, vacuum leak from under the hood. What are the most common items that go bad, that I should look at first?
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I have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
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I just replaced a clutch line yesterday on a 98 s10 and it failed again today it blew at the same spot....
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I have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
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I have a vehicle that I was hoping would make it to the end of the year or so with because of credit issues. I just within the past week or less, am experiencing delayed shifting into 1st gear from stop, and a hard shift into second, then gears 3-5 seem to be much smoother. I went to check to see if my transmission fluid was low, and it is very thin, watery and milky in color. I have 149,000 miles on it almost, and the fluid was never changed that I am aware of when I got it with 78,000+ miles.( I didn't know I needed to do it within the next 50,000 or so.) I've been told by regular mechanics at NTB tire that it was already too late (2 yrs ago) and just keep putting fluid in and should be ok.
Well now it's not, and my question is this, can I have the fluid changed at this point at all, is it possible that it could just seize up the transmission for good? I also don't know if I should continue to drive it or what.
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My 98 Windstar Limited has air suspension in the back. Lately, it would be sitting low in the back before starting it up in the morning. The compressor would pump it up as soon as you fired up the van. And the rest of the day would be fine. The other day, the warning light for the air suspension came on, and the compressor has not worked since. Fuses and power connections all seem okay. OBD codes C1770, C1790, C1818 and C1850 were in the system.
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Ford Windstar 2001. Auto transmission oil leaking
What I have done : Refill and observed what happen, leaking still. I changed the gasket & filter. The leaking persists.
I found bulletin service about water entering, causing ECM to give wrong measuring stick level. I fixed, according to bulletin TSB 14-06-10. It is leaking still.
There is another bulletin about the same problem: TBS 05-14-5. This bulletin is about the transaxle vent being obstructed.It is leaking a lot of oil.
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My wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
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1998 Windstar Limited. I have no vacuum to my rear Auxiliary Unit. I am considering buying a hand vacuum pump. However, I never used one. Is there a video available.
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My windstar has for a while been making moderate/slight jerks when stopping. It tends to happen typically just before coming to a complete stop, although sometimes it happens during low-speed turns when coasting (also sometimes have the issue where it shifts downshifts harshly after a "sweeping turn," as mentioned in one of the windstar TSBs). The RPMS don't appear to visibly drop when it occurs (although the tach in the 'stars seems a little slow sometimes). The only trouble code present is P0133 for the Bank 1 downstream O2 sensor slow response.
Also, it tends to worsen when the car is warm. The jerking is less severe when the engine is cool, and tends to worsen after the car warms up. Also it sometimes almost feels like the jerk occurs in two stages. I do not believe it is the TCC solenoid failing to disengage, due to the fact that it even happens if I get up to 15mph for a hundred feet, and then stop.
Probably unrelated, but the car also tends to run rough for 10-15 seconds after starting the first time if left sitting for a few days.
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I have a great running 98 Windstar. It does not overheat. The oil looks like it needs to be changed but it is not Coffee Colored, as the picture. The PCV valve looks clean, and rattles. I replaced the small 2 inch hose at the PCV valve on the back valve cover since it looked weak in the middle and may have been collapsing. I no longer get the big puddles of OIL/WATER on the ground, that I use to. I cleaned the oil/water out of the Intake Hose of the Throttle Body, but I still see some of the mixture underneath the Air Instake hose after a long drive.
I will go by the Ford dealer and buy another PCV valve, and replace the small curved hose going to the top of the engine near the Throttle Body that the other end of the PCV connects. Someone suggested that this could be cracked, and it does have some small cracks in it at the bend.
I have read that the 99-00 had a design problem with the Valve Cover, and it allowed oil to be sucked out and give similar problem. But since this is a 98, I am just looking for pinched hoses, or leaks. Car runs great, and hoping that I can find the reason that oil is being sucked into the air intake.
Do I have it correct that during normal operation, that the moisture and gases are sucked up out of the engine thru the PCV and into the top of the engine. And that the other Valve cover hose is going in the other direction or from the throttle body to the Valve cover?
Just trying to determine if the oil/moisture mixture is coming from the front or rear (PCV) valve cover. Getting no codes on the engine.
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I have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
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I had my truck at the shop today and it was determined that the transfer case front driveshaft seal is leaking and the gasket between the transmission and transfer case has also failed. The shop wants a reasonable amount to fix it but they need the truck for 2-3 days. It doesn't appear to be that difficult of a job to remove the transfer case. Am I missing something? Dropping off the truck and leaving it for a few days is the difficult portion......if they could do it in a day I'd just pay them and be done with it. So my thought was to pull it and just drop it off so they can replace the seals and fix any other issues.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe which I brought brand new in 2005. After 48,000 the transmission was shot, the fluid was black it was a mess. I had the tranny serviced at about 30,000 miles and thought everything was ok. My dealer replaced the tranny under warranty and said it failed, thats it. Ok.....64,000 miles later the second transmission just failed. Keep in mind the dealer serviced the transmission twice and now this one is shot. Being out of warranty, Hyundai wants me to pay for a new one, I opted to get it rebuilt at a local shop. My question is other that why aren't these transmissions lasting, am I alone or this quite common.
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I noticed leakage of transmission oil leaking between the engine and the transmission of my windstar 2000 280 K miles. No driving issue, no flashing OD light. I am keeping the level.
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I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
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1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
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Have 1998 Explorer with 5R55E tranny and the automatic transmission extension housing seal keeps coming off, allowing a fluid leak. I just replaced it and it's doing it again. When I put it in there, it seemed tight, but... How to keep this thing in there?
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