Ford - Windstar :: 1995 - When A/C Is Turned On Compressor Clutch Doesn't Engage
Apr 15, 2011
I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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I got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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I have recently bought a R32 2008, and when trying to turn the AC I don't hear the AC compressor clutch clicking, the fans are running normally (radiator fans ). What should I check ? Someone told me that maybe it's a compressor problem, and another one said that if the refrigerant gas is low the clutch won't be engaged.
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I have a 2000 chevy malibu that has not had a/c the past 2 summers. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem could be. When I start the car and then turn on the a/c by pressing the button in the car nothing seems to happen.
When I went to look at the compressor motor I could see that the clutch is not engage and the middle of the compressor is not turning. What to check without taking to a mechanic??
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Our cars shifter does not engage properly to Drive position. It comes down to D but the car just revs up or does not pick speed when we hit gas. we have to adjust/move it up and down to engage it. other position seems to be working fine. what could be the problem?
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While driving down the highway, my Ford Windstar van just quit! The battery is new and the lights stayed on. About 10 minutes later the engine turned over again and I drove it to a Ford shop. They put the computer on it, but nothing showed up. What could cause a vehicle engine to just quit while going 40 MPH down the road?!
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diagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
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I have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
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2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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