Ford - Windstar :: 1995 - Van Slowly Dies When Idling?
Mar 30, 2011
diagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
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Noticed my beater Honda del Sol (177k miles) idling slowly the other day. Normal 45F day, light urban driving. Usually idle is ~800rpm (indicated), was dropping to 600rpm and even 500rpm. Holding her at 1000rpm then releasing the gas pedal yielded ~300rpm and it almost died, followed by ~500rpm. Ran fine at any other speed; it had no hesitation, no noises, and no warning lights.
So my GF said, "you're probably low on oil; my Cooper S did that once". Huh? Why would low oil, other than if it were so low that it starved the engine and caused friction, impact the idle? If anything, I'd think it would idle faster with less fluid to pump, and/or with hotter and hence thinner oil (assuming it'll run hotter if it has less oil, which it didn't appear to be).
Sure enough, I checked and it was about a quart low. I've never had a car that uses oil, plus my cars usually have oil pressure & oil level indicators (i.e. Porsche 944S2). So I've never run those lower than near the bottom of the "normal" range.
Searching "The Google" only provided unsatisfactory answers about metal-to-metal grinding and galling slowing down the engine, which is not what is happening here. There is still oil pressure, the oil light does not come on, and the engine sounds "normal". And adding oil immediately cured the slow idle.
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95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and the A/C has started blowing hot when i idle but it blows cold when I am driving. I had the compressor replaced back in February and the pressure is normal so it doesn't look like it has a system leak. If I am at a traffic light, I can put the van in neutral and press the gas and it will start blowing cold again. Since I just spent $1300 a few months ago when my compressor seized, I really hope it is not an expensive fix.
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My 1999 ford windstar died last month while driving. No signs no symptoms just shut off while driving. Towed it to a mechanic paid $400 for a new fuel pump. I get it back and still having problems. The van dies while driving at any speeds. I've had it shut off when starting to stop at stop signs and I've had it shut off while driving 60. Each time I put it in park it starts up just fine. I took it in to get a computer check and all that it said is rich fuel. So they told me o2 sensor. Two mechanics have informed me o2 sensor would not cause those problems.
Recently someone told me ignition coil was their problem on a truck they had having the same problems. So I watched a YouTube video and I think I can do it myself. Let me just say I don't know anything about cars but it looks simple and I am not willing to sink money on mechanics that clearly themselves can't figure out the problems. Am I right to change the coil or do any of you think it might be something else? I don't want to waste my time if it's not the coil. I have had this van for 3 months. I got for $800 and have now paid about $800 in repairs. Its a good van but im Not paying out more so from here on out this is my let's learn about fixing my own car car. I've read some threads about also changing the spark plugs or the coil will break again I'm also think I can do that as well. Again do you think this is the right track or is it maybe something else.
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just dies when you put in gear, comes up with a code of 1780 transmission control switch circuit out of self test range, some have suggested torque converter selonoid any way to test for these.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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I had a spark plug break on me and it caused a misfire. I took it in and the mechanic replaced all spark plugs and wires. After getting the car back, I experience an occasional engine hiccup here and there. Took it back to the mechanic and told me that he cleaned off the valves of carbon build up. This did not alleviate the current symptoms. It is more noticeable while I am idling. It feels like a jolt. It appears to be worse after a cold start. I do not have a check engine light or do I notice the RPM needle go wild. What is the mechanic missing? What could still be wrong with the engine? Vehicle is a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE, 6cyl, 3.8L ....
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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It was a chilly morning for North Texas, in low 20's this morning. I started my truck in the driveway driveway, as I do any morning when it cold out, then retreated back the house to grab my coffee before hitting the road to work. This morning was different, the engine had stalled out but the battery still had the lights and radio on. Any thoughts on this aside from the usual guesses of cylinder, fuel pump and purge valve?
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95 Ford Escort shuts down like you turn off the key. This just started happening with no warning. Idles fine had to replace the plugs,wires and the dist.pack.
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I have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
[URL] ....
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I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
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I have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
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My 95 Ford Probe is idling at around 450 RPMs and I'm not sure what the problem is. I have tried replacing the fuel filter already to see if that would work at all and, it didn't After doing some research online I have seen that it could possibly be an Air-Flow sensor.
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1997 Ford Explorer 4.0L the engine just died while idling. The engine will not turn over at all. Battery and cables are good. Able to get engine to turn over with screw driver on starter relay but still won’t start. Checked spark when bypassing relay with screw driver and spark is Ok.
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I own a 2009 Prius and have had occasional issues with the car not starting in cold weather and have had to jump start it a few times. Fortunately that was successful. Today I noticed a new problem. In the past we have had problems with the car making a beeping noise, and the car with key symbol would blink. I have ignored that issue as it only lasted a short time. Today the car was beeping and when pushing the start button the car turned on but the dash lit up with the red triangle and exclamation point. We have had this happen before and would press the parking brake, then release it, push power button and it would shut off and we would restart without problems. Today the right headlamp went out followed by the left one about 30 seconds later. The fuel indicator began blinking as well as the drive/park indicator on the far left of the dash. The car eventually went dead although had very little light for overhead and glove box lights. The brake lights also worked. We have 125,000 miles on it with the original battery. Does this mean the battery finally went. If so how will we be able get the car out of the garage?
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