Ford - Thunderbird :: Gauges Stay On And Low Fuel Light Lit Up After Turning Car Off Completely
Feb 4, 2011
My 1995 Ford Thunderbird has a problem when I turn it off. After turning it off and removing the key the gauges still stay on and the low fuel light come on even though there is a full tank. Every other time I turn the car off the heater fan turns on even though it is in the off position. I replaced the ignition switch and cylinder but it didn't make a difference. I'm thinking it might be the ECU but I don't want to just start replacing more and more things trying to find this out.
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I have my car and it takes a few times to start but once its on it wont stay running if i let go of the key or the ignition cylinder ....
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My Grandfathers Thunderbird has sat for 5 years. I need to get it running again. I can hear the fuel pump build pressure, replaced fuel filter. After cranking on it, eventually it will start. When it starts to die, I give it some more gas, RPMs increase but it doesnt run much longer. I do smell gas after it dies. After a couple times of this the battery has to be recharged. I hook it up to a jump at 55amp's and it will start once more and then die. Also, I did drain the fuel and put in half a tank of new gas and 1 - bottle of gas treatment.
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I have a 91 tbird sc, the cooling fan is not kicking in and then car boils over, I changed the temperature sending unit and no DIFFERENCE. I am not sure if in the 91 the cooling fan was supposed to turn on when I hit the defrost, but It did for the last few months, its not any more though,. a mechanic told me it was normal but I don't ever remember it doing that before, also the heater is still blowing heat so i didn't think it was the thermostat. Or water pump???
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I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird LX which seems to have automatic headlights. The second the the engine starts, lights go one, and the second the door opens after the engine turns off, lights go out, no matter where the setting on the headlight switch is.
Me being old school enough and use a switch (especially having vintage autos which keep headlights on and will not alert that they are on), I would rather have the switch function as normal, without an automatic function at all.
Is this even doable with this car, and something that is easily changeable (like a relay or something), or is it borderline with we wiring the car.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
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What could cause my Instrument lights to stay on for a while as well as my gauges to malfunction when the temperature is cool.? It just started doing this.
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I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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First time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
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After changing my radiator support, my fuel and temperature gauges don't work. I looked to see if everything was plugged in and I don't see anything unplugged. I do know the older trucks used the V-R regulators, but I don't know about this model.
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I have a 94 t-bird lx with a 3.8 and just started to have the overdrive light flash. I only flashes after I try to drive and then the car also seems to take forever to shift to 2nd. I also have hard shifts after actually getting to 2nd.
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Is there any way to turn the dash lights completely out? I do a lot of night driving and would like to have complete darkness in the cabin. I'm able to do this in my pickup and find that I'm able to see deer, and other critters much easier without dash lights. Yes, it's important to see my speed, but most of my miles are cruise control. I also have an iPhone app that provides a brightness adjustable heads up display.
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic hubs. My automatic hubs completely destroyed themselves and are being replaced with manuals as soon as this new problem is solved. Initially the truck seemed to go in and out of 4 wheel on the hubs and jumped, snapped and ultimately destroyed the retaining clips in the hub itself so that those gears fell out when wheel was removed. I removed both sides and that stopped, but now when I turn the vehicle, this worse at lower speeds, it doesn't want to return to center and will stay in the turn without much effort to turn back to straight.
The pump seems fine on the power steering system. A mechanic friend of mine told me that my universal and upper and lower ball joints where shot on the front axle, but I feel that this might have more to do with the steering rods etc. The originals have been replaced and I am able to grease them, after doing this it seemed really loose for a bit, then by second day of driving it was back to the usual. I just am looking for some verification before replacing tie rods etc and then eventually the hubs, but winter over so there is less concern right now for that.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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My van starts sometimes and runs fine but sometimes it won't start. Acts like not getting fuel. Once it does start it runs fine. Doesn't do it all the time but happening more frequently. The van will turn over but as soon as I let go of the gas pedal it just turns off. I have put a new battery and changed the fuel filter. I don't think it's the fuel pump cuz it runs good once it starts?
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I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
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My 98 dodge ram 2500 was running and now the gauges don't work and the fuel pump isn't working either, I have checked and replaced fuses and relays with no luck ...
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I have a 2005 VW Phaeton V6 TDI, with a couple of problems.
Oil temp and Fuel level gauges are not working. Range remaining displayed as "---". Ride height button activates a screen in the infotainment and shows that vehicle is in normal height ride but it won't let me change it to high. Dampening button doesn't activate anything at all. However the button itself works, I've tested it using measuring blocks.Volume and cruise control buttons on the steering wheel don't work although they are illuminated. Buttons that control the MFD work absolutely fine.
I've noticed that my vcds cable cannot connect to the following controllers and they are missing from the autoscan:
Address 07: Control Head
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Address 17: Instruments
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Address 37: Navigation
Address 47: Sound System
Maybe they all have something in common ? I have no problems connecting to other vehicles or other controllers in this car. Previous owner fitted an instrument cluster from a 2011 VW Phaeton, but it seems to work fine except for the problems stated above.
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When I start the car the fuel gauge sometimes goes past F and interferes with the water temp gauge. Also noticed recently that the RPM is not reading correctly.
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I can get the fan to work in lo-med-hi if I set the rear-cool fan selector to those positions, however, selecting auto results in the fan turning off completely. Do I have to have the front in "auto" for the rear "auto" function to work?
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