Ford - Thunderbird :: 2003 - Electric Fan Is Very Noisy
Jun 10, 2015
My electric fan is very noisy and it didn't used to be, and my car is running very hot. Is there any relationship between the two?
View 13 RepliesMy electric fan is very noisy and it didn't used to be, and my car is running very hot. Is there any relationship between the two?
View 13 RepliesIt's 26 degrees out, and my electric fan is running full tilt. It's quite loud... I can't understand why this thing would be running like it is, but I can't believe that it's normal for the radiator fan to go full tilt like that when it's this cold...
View 1 RepliesThe electric motor which adjusts the steering wheel position has begun to "rumble"--When I enter the car (keyless entry) and the wheel begins to assume it's pre-set position, a loud grumbling noise occurs. If I then use the switch to readjust the position, I again hear the noise. Is there a way to lubricate the steering wheel (WD-40?) without causing other problems?
View 1 RepliesWe have and enjoy our 2003 Ford thunderbird. It has the 3.9L v8. Great fun except for the first 3 seconds after starting. When you start it after it sits for more than three hours or so, it has a loud engine clatter for just a few seconds. Then it's fine and rides great with no other noise. It certainly appears that it is not getting lubrication for that first few seconds. What it is? Should I be concerned? I have heard suggestions like, change the oil filter, variable timing chain, and valve seals.
View 11 RepliesSo, yesterday I noticed the idle was higher than normal. In drive I'm at 950 to 1000 rpm and in park it's about 1150 to 1200. It's kind of like a cold start but never backs off and does this when things are warmed up also.
I replaced the IAC Valve about a month ago cause I got tired or cleaning it. The condition was a low idle and fluctuation when I came to a stop.
To test for the new conditions I have been reading that if I pull the plug on the IAC that the idle should drop if it's working?
If there is no drop in RPM then it could be the TPS? 1999 5.4....
1998 4X4. My rear suspension is so loud and noisy it's driving me crazy. I've soaked the thing many times with wd40 but it doesnt seem to work or work not more than a day or two.
I've tried to make a pic with my phone because I think at the rear side of the leafs they are separating way too much... I've got no more than about 150lbs and a LPG-tank on my bed...
Moreover I think my truck rides bad. I know it's no Cadillac and I'm running 33s and its a 4x4 BUT I've got quite new Rancho shocks and the whole front suspension is in good shape and it got an alignment a month ago...
So what do you think, after 181.000mls time to get new rear leafs or take the old ones apart, free them from the rust, paint & grease them and put them back together?
I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
The passenger side power window sounds a little rough, almost like a slight grinding and it raises and lowers slower than the driver side.
This is kind of what happened when the plastic gears crumbled on the passenger side of my ranger. Does this sound like bad gears or could it be something that needs grease?
I was wondering if it is possible, due to budget, to perform the electric fuel pump conversion in steps. By that I mean could I remove the mechanical pump and install the electric pump on the frame, but retain the stock filter housing and regulator? I would use high pressure hose and run from the stock pump supply line on top of the engine to the fuel bowl inlet and then use high pressure to run to a three way fitting, and a bit more hose to join the fitting to the stock lines running to the head. later as budget allow I will replace the filter assembly and regulator and then the lines to the heads.
View 2 RepliesBeen trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
View 13 RepliesI just got a 02 f250 lariat 4x4. 7.3. the dimmer on the dash will not work. The light switch was falling apart any way so I replaced it with motor raft switch. Didn't fix it I checked the fuses for the dash and lights. Can't find anything. It does have an aftermarket CD player and those light work with switch. Also it has the mirrors with turn signals and run lights. Neither works power mirrors work fine but no lights. On either side.
View 9 RepliesSo I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
Got some road noise going on always noisy while driving straight or turning to the right. If I take a turn at speed on the highway to the left the noise stops. Sounds normal, once I straighten out the noise returns. So my thoughts are clearly drivers side, but not 100% sure where to start my search. Wheel hub is my first thought, is there anything i can do to check if the hub is good since they are sealed?
View 4 RepliesI've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
View 5 RepliesI have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
I have an 2003 F250 with a nosiy alternator and need to change the bearings. I would like to have the bearings on hand before i take it apart. What is the part numbers for the bearings I need?
View 3 RepliesJust tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
View 6 RepliesEvery now and then my headlights dim, flicker, and then go out. They will come back on only to do it again a few seconds later. It's only happened 4 times. After the first three times (all while driving on a freeway that was having work done making it but bumbier than usual) I took it to the shop. He tested the electrical system and could find nothing wrong. While he had my car he replaced a bad spark plug that had come off and fried a spot on the boot. I know the two things aren't related but the lights were fine for the next two months. The other night they did it again while I was on a very dark back road and it scared me to death. This road was a little bumpy and very curvy. I've had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 89 ford Thunderbird that I've replaced coil and all other things i can think of but still no spark. I pulled the plug which connects to the coil pack and tested the positive side of plug and not hot with key on then i went to back side of plug and got a hot.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Thunderbird. The dashboard is having issues. The top of the dash is barely cracked but the part of the dash that goes in front of the instrument panel is badly cracked. It is being held in place with zip ties, and tape. It started with a crack near where the steering wheel was, and then multiple cracks popped up. It also cracked worse after my mechanic had to take it off to fix the rear defroster switch. I do not think I need a whole brand new dash but if I call junkyards just for the part that is cracked, what it is called? I have read the term dash panel, dash, front and dash bezel, but I do not know if they are right.
View 19 RepliesI have a 91 tbird sc, the cooling fan is not kicking in and then car boils over, I changed the temperature sending unit and no DIFFERENCE. I am not sure if in the 91 the cooling fan was supposed to turn on when I hit the defrost, but It did for the last few months, its not any more though,. a mechanic told me it was normal but I don't ever remember it doing that before, also the heater is still blowing heat so i didn't think it was the thermostat. Or water pump???
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