Ford - Thunderbird :: 1996 - Shake Harder And Faster With Increased RPMs


Feb 26, 2014

I've got a problem with my '96 Tbird that's really stumping me. It started with a little shake when I gave the car gas. I don't know if it's related, but I ran over some debris on the highway at around 70mph. [No chance to avoid, unfortunately] That same day it felt like the car was missing, and throughout the week it got worse and worse. It would shake harder and faster with increased RPM's. By the end of the week, it was so bad I kept the car off the road.

I thought it was a bad misfire, so I changed the plugs, then the wires, then the EGR and EGR solenoid [from JY] and swapped a coilpack from my other car. It ended up being the harmonic balancer, it spun a 180, not a surprise on an 18 year old car. I've never had one go bad, so I didn't even think of that as a possibility with the way the car felt. [I've been working on cars for a long time.] It never threw a code once, so I had nothing to go by to begin with.

So over the weekend I swapped out the balancer, and buttoned everything up. Ran fine! No shake! But then I had gotten a new problem.

The idle started to get bad. Very bad. It would lope, lope then almost try to stall, especially when the fans kicked on or I put it into gear. Since this car is my daily driver, I had it at work while I started to undo the new stuff I put on it. I started with the just unpluging the battery for 3 hours. Didn't work. So I pulled the new plugs, reverted them back to the old ones. It didn't work. Leaving work that day I noticed if I pull the IAC connector, the idle smooths out some, but it doesn't stall. [Suspect, maybe?]

So I figured it was the EGR, or solenoid, so I changed them both out. Nothing worked, still was horrible. Frustrated I changed out the coil pack and wires. It's still horrible.

I don't drive the car now, it stalled out a few times in traffic on the way back before I swapped everything back out.

The icing on the cake is that it has not thrown a single code except for when I unplug the IAC. And the only code it throws is barking at me for doing so.

It really feels like a bad vacuum leak. I've run down every single line and there's nothing leaking or rotten. The IAC is in question, but the car was working perfectly fine for at least a year with no problems whatsoever. So how the IAC went bad right after changing everything and a new harmonic balancer is way beyond me.

I'm thinking too maybe I damaged the Crank Position Sensor when I installed the balancer, since it was a one piece unit with the pick-up gear. But, I was careful with it, used a puller installer, and there is appropriate distance between the sensor and gear. Also, I'm not sure, but I doubt the Crank Sensor going bad would effect idle. Any RPM above 1500 is smooth, and doesn't surge.

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Ford - Thunderbird :: 1994 - RPMs Surge While Cruising Down Freeway Intermittently?

My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.

If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.

I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Engine Seemed To Slip Into Neutral When Speed Increased And RPMs At 2000

I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.

After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?

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Thunderbird :: 1996 - No Brake Pedal - 4 Brakes Bled?

My 96 thunderbird had a rear caliper shot. I changed the caliper, the rotor, and the brake pads then bled all the brakes. The three I didn't touch bled perfectly when someone in the car pressed the brake, I let fluid flow, then tightened the nut. The wheel with all the new parts I get zero fluid out of. I removed the brake line completely and pumped the brakes and still no fluid. It has no pedal and three of the four brakes have been bled. My only guess is there is air in the line but why wouldn't any fluid come out if I continually pump the brake pedal with only that one line open?

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Transmission Shift Delayed - RPMS Increased

2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.

Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.

Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.

Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Consistent Ticking Noise / Gets Faster As RPMs Rise

I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).

Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.

Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.

Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).

All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?

The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...

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Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Wheel Shake - Noise From Passenger Front

I have a 96 explorer 4x4 that i just bought and it has wheel shake. It also has a slight noise coming from pass front. So i jack it up and there is zero wheel play. I spin the wheel and it spins kinda freely until about 3/4 away around then it has some resistance to stop the wheel. Im thinking that could maybe a rotor a lil warped but not sure. Same wheel there are wires showing on the inside. Now i try the driver side and i cannot spin that wheel it has resistance all the time. So could this be hub or maybe just bad tire?

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Volvo :: 1997 850 Sedan Coasts When Accelerate Faster And RPMs Go Up

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Ford - Mountaineer :: 2004 - Buck / Shake And Idle Around 400 RPMs - Misfire On 3 Cylinders

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Camry 2012+ :: Harder Acceleration With Harder Push On Brake

I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.

Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.

After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.

Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!

This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.

It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - RPMs Are Up Around 2500 With The Overdrive Engaged

I have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.

That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Running Rough / Smooth Out A Bit When RPMs Raised Up

Recently bought a 96 4 cylinder 5speed 2wd ranger. 200xxx miles on it and its former owner had a young guy change spark plugs . Truck ran fine before, but after is when the rough running showed up.

A quick check of the plug wires and there locations looked correct and also tested the wires for spark with a timing light attached to them, checked shows all are firing.

Seems to smooth out a bit when rpm's are raised up, but still acts like not running smooth.

I swapped out plugs. Looks like they haven't been changed in a long time .Some of the straps are burnt and are shorter than they should be, but still runs rough, very little improvement .

Check vacuum lines for leaks/breaks and all looked good. removed line off brake booster and plugged, didn't matter.

It doesn't throw and check engine lights. It does smooth out some as the rpm's rise, but still not smooth .

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Saab - 900 :: 1996 - Dash Light Failure And Idle RPMs

My '96 Saab 900s dash light failed when turning my lights on. Sometimes when I push on the dimmer knob the dash light will come on, and then go off real quickly. How can I fix this as a nuisance driving at night and not being able to see my speed?Additional question:What is a normal idle RPM for '96 saab 900s? I thought I heard 800RPMs. My car idles at 11-1200RPMs. If this is high, I'm probably wasting fuel. What would be some ways to correct this?

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Jeep - Cherokee :: 1996 - While Driving RPMs Drops And Car Dies

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These things have already been replaced

cam shaft sensorcrank shaft positioning sensorfuel filterPlugs/Wires/Distributor Cap

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I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.

Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.

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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).

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