Ford - Thunderbird :: 1985 Turbo Coupe Dies When Coasting In Neutral
Mar 15, 2011
This problem has plagued my '85 Tbird Turbo Coupe for about a month. When I put my car in neutral while moving, the RPMs fall significantly below idle and then the engine usually catches itself and after about 5-10 seconds idles normally. If I do this at high speed (say 40 mph +), the RPMs fall to the point where the engine stalls and dies. If I do it at 25-40 mph, it will go down about 200-500 RPMs and then catch itself. If I do it at 15-20 mph, it will be just barely noticeable, and anything slower than that I can't notice it. It will also do this to some extent when I'm stopped if I rev the engine up really high and let it off, but it is far less noticeable. This car has had extensive work done to it in the past 6 months.
Most recently, I had the fuel injectors replaced, throttle body cleaned, IAC valve cleaned, and the vehicle searched for vacuum leaks. (most of that in search of the solution to this problem as well as to improve the general performance of the vehicle. A week before that, I also had a new fuel tank, fuel pump, and fuel filter installed. I've got a very small leak on the back of my muffler, no cat, and no other exhaust leaks I can find. I am getting a lot of black carbon out of the exhaust, but I have been running some fuel system cleaner through it. Also, the car sat for like 8 years before I got it, and the original cat became clogged and really gunked stuff up. I had all of the upper engine gaskets replaced, as much as we could get to cleaned internally, and the cat cut off at that point. Timing is very close to 10btdc. Could be 9.5, but just about right there. I double checked, no vacuum leaks that I could find with a can of carb cleaner. I tried checking for codes, but it's not even throwing me a confirmation code or anything, which is odd. But, my connector was pretty gummed up (I did clean it as good as I could) and just about anything wiring is suspect. I used two engine code readers that had previously been used on the car. Other than this, the car has plenty of power and runs fine down the road.
Here's the master list of what I've replaced in the past 6mo:
FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Pump (twice) Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Tank Fuel Injectors
ASSORTED FILTERS Fuel Filter (twice) Air Filter Oil Filter (several times) Oil Filler Cap PCV Valve
HOSES/COOLANT SYSTEM Nearly every Vacuum Hose Every Coolant Hose Heater Core (twice)
SENSORS AND COMPUTER STUFF Engine Control Module (ECM) Vane Air Meter (VAM) Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Oxygen Sensor
STARTING SYSTEM/ELECTRIC/Misc. Spark Plugs and Wires (Motorcraft) Starter Solenoid Coil Pack Distributor
TFI Module Distributor Cap and Rotor Battery Timing Belt
EEC Relay Ignition Switch Tires Front Brakes Brake Master Cylinder (had previously been damaged) Front tie-bars Every gasket from the head up.
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I'm working on a 93 thunderbird with a 3.8 in it and no check engine lights are on.The engine races at about 2500 rpm in neutral, I changed out the TPS but the idle still was way too high.
My first thought was a vacuum leak and I did find one hose that was rotted away. I then tested for vacuum leaksby spraying some brake cleaner around the intake and all the lines and fittings, but the engine stayed at a constant rpm.
My next guess is the Throttle Air bypass valve.
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I have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
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I have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
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Does coasting in neutral (to save fuel) cause any damage or wear when shifting the gear lever into Drive while moving?
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I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
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My 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
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I'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
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what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
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So I was driving my car about a week ago when it decided to "die" on me for about 2 seconds. I was coasting in neutral (tiptronic) to a red light when the car's engine light popped on and the car just bogged down hard. I threw the car into drive and the problem went away immediately. I haven't had the problem since then, but I'm also not allowing the car to coast in neutral anymore.
I was thinking about bringing the car in to have them read the computer but is this something that they would be able to trace back or would I be out the 90 bucks for nothing? I have absolutely no clue what this could be.
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Driving my car (2001 Jetta Wolfsburg w/ 1.8T) to work yesterday and all of a sudden the airbag light comes on... As I was almost to my exit I continued another 500 yards. The ABS/and brake light come on as well and the car dies as I coast to the side of the road. I would not start so I had my spouse bring the trailer and another battery to see if it would start up. It started up and we loaded onto the trailer.
Took the battery to Napa and they said battery was bad. Today I buy another battery and the voltage of the battery not running is 12.2V and with the car running the alternator to battery voltage is the same. How do I know if the voltage regulator is bad or the diode or something internally in the alternator? Also how to I get the airbag light reset?
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My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
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I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
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Wednesday I was hauling a couple of horses to Idaho. I was climbing up Malad pass on I-15. It's a good climb for the truck but something I've done several times this summer A little warm around mid 90's . Cruise set at 70mph following a friend in his duramax and another friend behind me with an 2002 7.3L Almost the summit, my truck shuts down. dash says I've gone into limp mode, and I coast to the shoulder.
I pull the codes and it's showing P0259 So I call my dealer and the service writter pulls up the code and says it's a Turbo Overboost. So I clear it and restart the truck, runs fine the rest of the week hauling horses around Idaho Wyoming.
Dealer says to bring truck in because there is a flash to fix that problem. Overboost with normal driving ? Pro's and Cons of the flash?
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
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Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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My car has just had a 66 point service and I bought a full bottle of fully Synthetic oil for the garage to use to save costs. All was fine, I have just parked the car on a very steep hill so the car was tipped to the right hand side for about 7 or 8 minutes. I came back and when I started the car it said Oil level low, now I'm sure it would say this due to the engine being tilted but it never went off for about 2 miles and until I turned ignition off. Nothing would leak out would it?? I'm tempted to put more in the engine but don't want to over fill it if the garage have done it already? (I have a Renault megane coupe 2008)
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My 2013 Coupe has reflectors on the bottoms of the doors that do not light up. I know on my 2013 Optima with door reflectors that do not light up it has the housing that is used on the Korean version that does light up minus the wiring and you can tap into the wiring to make the door reflectors light up when you open the door.
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Last week I got back from a two week trip and came to turn on my car (95k miles) and I quickly noted a flat. Put the car in park to check it, and all of the sudden the engine is revving--1500rpm up to about 3500rpm and back down, over and over again. Put on my spare and headed to the shop. The whole way there, about four miles or so one-way, the car could hit 40mph without me on the gas. I turned the car on/off about five times, still having the same issue. In total, I drove about 25 miles with this issue, then, all of the sudden it seemed to be solved.
My mechanic seemed troubled by it when he took a look. No one could diagnose the issue, just had the air leak that caused the flat on a Saturday afternoon fixed, but I haven't taken it back to them because the issue isn't happening anymore.
This comes on the heels of taking it in and having the fuel relay fixed because of the well-documented issue with this car stalling on start with warm temperatures. That fix was supposed to take care of things, but the issue still persisted following the fix.
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