Ford - Tempo :: 1993 - Stalling Out While Coasting / Accelerating In Drive
Mar 22, 2014
I have an issue with a 1993 Ford Tempo. It is owned by a auto parts store and is used for deliveries so it gets a lot of use from day to day. Several different mechanics have looked at it and no one can figure out exactly whats wrong.
The issue is this - The car stalls out at about 2 or 3 oclock everyday after being used for deliveries starting at 9 oclock. It will stall while idling in park, while stopped in drive, while coasting/accelerating in drive. The temperature is normal. Is will start to idle and run very rough and the car is less responsive to the gas pedal about 10 minutes before it stalls.
Once it stalls, if it is allowed to sit for about half an hour it will start and run fine for a little longer but eventually stall again. After it sits for a few hours it is fine to run for a few hours again. If you try to start it right after it stalls the first time the engine will turn over but stall out again in a few seconds, if you keep trying to restart it it will eventually not even crank. Also it will occasionally stall like this/run rough in the first 10-20 minutes of driving.
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I have a '93 Ford Tempo 2.3 liter with a/c ....it OVERHEATS ... love the car, but when I sit in traffic, the temp needle goes up almost to the redline, I have to shut the car off .... it happens all year round ... if I'm driving up a hill the temp starts climbing, if I turn the heat OFF the temp climbs, in summer when I put A/C on the temp climbs ... I've put 3 Thermostats in, a new Water Pump, there are NO leaks in Radiator, I've replaced Hoses ... no I'm not a mechanic, I've brought it to garages ... other than the overheating issue it's a good lil car, uses maybe 1 QT of oil every other month ... when I lived in SC had the same car....SAME PROBLEM...had a 1995 Windstar that did the same thing, replaced radiators etc nobody could figure it out, or didn't want to....what is it with Fords!
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I changed the harmonic balancer in my 93 ford tempo but the rattle came back!! Last night we tightened the bolt on it with 700 psi but it's still rattling! Could it be a bad balancer or another part that is lose? It rattles at idle and goes away while driving. It just started again the day before yesterday (I thought my husband was just looking to play with the car more) and by last night it got really loud. It's a deeper rattle then the rattle it had before we changed the balancer. Could there be something way out of balance that is causing the balancer to do this?
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First, the specifics: 1993 Ford Tempo 4-cyl Auto 78,000 miles (the proverbial little old lady car.) From a stop, the car will rev clear up to about 30 mph before shifting out of first into second. It will stay in second well past 60 mph, and even then, I have to kick it hard to make that happen. It's not that it won't shift; bit it seems to delay well past where it should. If I do manage to get it into 3rd, there's a pronounced thunk when it downshifts at a higher rev than it should when I slow down.
Now the background & other info: It's not my car. My B-I-L lent me this car because I ride a motorcycle all winter, & he took pity on me for the rainy & snowy days. In return, I offered to fix an annoying rattle. The problems went well past that, of course. The second day I drove it to work, it overheated and spewed clouds of steam in the parking garage. I had to have it towed home. That turned out to be a split in one of the heater hoses.
Disturbingly, however, the temp gauge on the dash never rose off of "C" on the ride in. I had expected to be replacing a water pump, but the heater hose seemed to be the only issue. Just the same, I replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor because I suspected the burst hose was a symptom, not the cause. Sure enough, after it's all put back together, the dashboard temp gauge is working better, and a short hop to the grocery store showed no overheating. At least that problem seems solved.
Prior to the coolant issue, the car drove fine (for one day); the shifting problem only surfaced afterward. As a last piece of info, I'll add that I had to add an entire quart of transmission fluid to bring the level between the marks. I didn't check that previously, so I can't say if that was a pre-existing condition. So then - what's the fix here? Could an overheated engine cause the tranny problem? Any chance this can be fixed simply? (FWIW, the rattle is the A/C pulley.)
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
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My 2003 Ford Ranger XLT FFV V6 has been chirping when I accelerate, generally louder the quicker I accelerate. It stops when I am not touching the gas pedal (coasting). It does not chirp in reverse.
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I have a 2002 Ford F150. 273,000 miles on it. When I am going about 50 mph and I start down a hill and let off the gas a bit and then when at the base of the hill I push on the gas to accelerate then sometimes it does a weird hesitation or slight "lurch" but it is NOT in the engine. The engine continues to run smoothly during this lurch. It only happens between 45 and 55 mph. It only seems to happen when I am trying to accelerate out of a coast. I had the dealer check underneath thinking it might be a u-joingt? They said everything underneath seems to be in good shape. Someone told me to consider Ring and Pinion Slop problem in the rear differential? When I read about that it seems that it normally makes a noise. There is no noise with my truck's problem.
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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For the past week or so, I've noticed that if my car has been stood for a while (say overnight or whilst at work) I have quite an annoying squeak/squeal when I'm initially accelerating or even coasting within the first couple minutes of driving. If I step on the breaks or speed up, it'll go and most of the time it's then gone for the duration of the drive. Aside from the fact it's highly embarrassing to have everyone stare at my car as I drive away, I'm also extremely worried it's insight into a big problem. What it could be?
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I purchased a ES300h in March 2013. Starting end of September I noticed a rattle (pebbles in a tin can tumbling sound) when I went up a slight grade, accelerating from a stop, or accelerating after a brief coasting on the freeway. The first time at the dealer they said stop using Costco gas and use Top Tier. I used Shell and Chevron and there was a 80% improvement but the nuisance still continued, some days more and some days less, meaning when it rained it poured.
On the third visit to the dealer, with two specialists on a ride along of course it does not make that noise, but left it there for them to find the continued problem and they conceded it is engine knock to which there is nothing out of specs with the engine AND say that this is normal. I have never had a car do this, maybe specific to hybrids? The service advisor goes on to tell me that they filled my tank with 91 octane to stop the knock, BUT, the manual says use 87!!!
Some say this can lead to engine damage, some say only blown gasket, the dealer says no problem! A friend of mine has the same car and has no issues.
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I had whining from the engine compartment when I am coasting and accelerating, much noiser than in the past. I had been getting a C1310 code along with C1253 , C1241 and C1300, but I changed out the Anti Skid ECU and these went away. However I still get the red triangle of death VSC and ABS lights on after driving on the highway for about 10 minutes at speeds over 65. So I then got P0A2B 250 codes, Drive motor A temperature sensor. After it rested a while and I restarted the car, all but the red triangle would go out. After two more starts the Red triangle went away too. This happened for a few weeks, until one day after a trip, the car just stopped. Would not start at all, no ready light went on. Testing gave me a P0AA6 526 code, Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault. Now I know the 526 could be multiple faults but with the whining and the P0A2B, I am thinking the transaxle is the smoking gun.
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I have a 2012 SE 4 Cylinder Special Edition and just hit 60,000. Lately, I have been noticing this vibrating/shaking in the front of the car when I'm coasting or accelerating at a slow speed. What it could be? I got my front end alignment done thinking it could be that but it still continued.
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I have a V6. Very happy with it...no real problems, but I do notice a fair amount of drive train gear lash noise when the vehicle is coasting and the windows are open. Is this normal? It not like it sounds really bad and hasn't gotten worse in the 2500 miles since I have my Treg...but I would like to know if it is normal.
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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There a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
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My '92 Ford Tempo's balancer has been making noise at idle; worse when in gear. I replaced the tensioner pulley and belt. It has a 2.3 (4cyl), with 45,000 original miles. My mechanic said it can't be replaced without pulling the engine. Is it safe to drive, especially long distance.
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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