Ford - Taurus - Belts :: Squeak On Right Side When Going 30 Or Under On The Road
May 5, 2015
So I have a 2003 Ford Tauraus. I took my car in last week for its regular 10,000 mile check up. While there, I asked the mechanic to check my fan belt as I had experienced some squeaking in that area. When I first noticed the squeaking, I picked up some belt conditioner from Auto Zone and had sprayed it, and that stopped the squeaking for a few weeks. The mechanic stated that nothing was wrong with the fan belt, and so I took it home.
This week, starting as of Monday, the right side of the car is squeaking again. I sprayed the fan belt with the belt conditioner again this morning, but only seemed to make the squeaking worse. As of this morning, there is no smoke coming from under the hood and no overheat signal has come on. It only squeaks when I am going 30 or under on the road. I am debating whether I should take it back to the shop or what I should do.
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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My serp belt squeaks due to contamination due to timing cover leak. I removed belt and cleaned it with mild degreaser solution and it was quiet for 1 day. If I had 100% water in cooling system, would any more leakage cause a belt squeak? I am putting off fixing timing cover gasket since it is a 5hr job. Coolant is @ 90% water concentration now.
Taurus 3.0 Vulcan motor.
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I have this weird problem that the car suddenly stops running while on the road. It has happened 3 times in the past 14 months. Every time it happened, my speed was less than 10 mph in slow traffic. And it was after I had driven over 15 minutes on the highway without any signs of trouble. The check engine light and low engine oil light would come on while the stall happened. After the stall, the car would not start. But after 20 minutes or so, the car would start normally, and it would run without any problem for months.
I have brought the car to a mechanic to diagnose the problem. I was told that it might have been caused by a faulty exhaust valve. The valve was replaced 5 months ago, but the stall happened again earlier this week. About a month ago the starter died and I went to a different shop to replace it. I was told that the cover gasket was leaky but it should not cause noticeable problem. After the starter replacement, I also started to notice that the car would occasionally vibrate abnormally for about 30 seconds after starting. I am not sure whether this is related to the stalling problem.
I cannot tell whether it is an engine problem or an electrical problem that is causing the engine to stall.
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Car dies going down the road, last year I was towed three times on freeway, once in town. I noticed that before it shuts down the air condition stops and auto windows won't work then I go to step on the gas and nothing.. it can happen two miles from home or 100 miles from home. after it sits awhile it will start. been to mechanic and he had it for a month and ran it everyday he said and nothing like that happened.
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I have a 2003 f150 with a 4.2 v6 2wd and about 116 on the clock.
It has this annoying, faint squeek whenever i hit bumps in the road. Sort of sounds like bird chirps. I cannot reproduce it if I bounce on it while parked.
One rainy day I tried to show a friend and it would not make the sound it seemed. Therefore I think its exterior, although it almost sounds inside.
Today I sprayed down all the rubber joints under the front end with silicone spray. It still squeaked while driving afterwards.
I should note that a ford dealer claimed the ball joints were worn and needed to be replaced. Although, would a ball joint make bird chirp type squeaks while driving at most speeds (20mph - highway speeds)? It does not intensify or change at any particular speed.
My understanding is that a bad ball joint would grind when turning the wheel or clunk while traveling over speed bumps or something similar.
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I have a 2009 Ford Taurus, 3.5 V-6. 56,480 miles bought as a CPO used car from a Ford dealer. my problem is that it has a clunking coming from the front end. every time you drive it across a bumpy road or a dip, speed bump or the nose of the car goes up and down there is a clunk sounding like it is coming from the left front suspension. happens at low speeds and high, does not change when brakes are applied. I have jacked the car up and crawled around under looking for anything loose, I have not found anything or seen anything that looks worn or rubbing.
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My car stopped in the middle of the road after going 55 mph. It wouldn't go drive or reverse. I did get It to go in neutral so I could push it out road. It has done this before but after stopping putting in park then drive it would go but not this time. What could it be and how much would it cost.
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I have a 2003 f150 with a 4.2 v6 2wd and about 116 on the clock.
It has this annoying, faint squeak whenever i hit bumps in the road. Sort've sounds like bird chirps. I cannot reproduce it if I bounce on it while parked.
One rainy day I tried to show a friend and it would not make the sound it seemed. Therefore I think its exterior, although it almost sounds inside.
Today I sprayed down all the rubber joints under the front end with silicone spray. It still squeaked while driving afterwards. How else can I go about diagnosing this?
I should note that a ford dealer claimed the ball joints were worn and needed to be replaced. Although, would a ball joint make bird chirp type squeaks while driving at most speeds (20mph - highway speeds)? It does not intensify or change at any particular speed.
My understanding is that a bad ball joint would grind when turning the wheel or clunk while traveling over speed bumps or something similar.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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Ever since i bought my .:R (3weeks ago) there has been this 'squeak' or 'chirp' sound whenever i hit a bump or rough road. Car only has 22k miles on it so this is way too early for any noises to be coming up. I've spoken to a few friends and they think it might be the bushings or my suspension was installed incorrectly. What it may be?
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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Experiencing stock shifter squeaking when moving side to side?
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Its only on the right side. When i push down on the right side, its really loud but when i push on the left side it doesn't squeak. It sounds its really loud. When i turn the wheel it sounds like an old door in a scary movie being closed. Is it my ball joints?
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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I have an 03 Ford Taurus I recently bought. It had a remote starter put in it. About a month later none of my windows will go down. What first happened was only the drivers window went down but not up. I finally got it up messing with the door lock on my remote and it will still go down but going up is another thing, just hit or miss for days. Still none of my other windows will go down.
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Can I replace a non-heated passenger side view mirror with a heated one?
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This piece just blew all the coolant out of my vehicle. Pulled it off and headed to the parts store.
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Have had the '13 SE 2.0 for a week. Wife said there was a squeak ?? I drove it today. Seems to be from front passenger side..
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I have a 2000 taurus and I have been having trouble with my power steering. Its leaking badly & from where I see it is Leaking is under the car on the passenger side by the tire. Also essentially the taurus power steering runs on transmission fluid so could it be a practical idea to use trans stop & sea to slow the leakage til I get to a mechanic?
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