Ford - Taurus - Airconditioning :: 1995 - A/C Service Ports Leaking
Aug 19, 2013
The A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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I'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
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My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
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The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
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My 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
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I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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The radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?
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I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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Anytime it rains my car has difficulty starting yet once it starts it runs rough for a while until it warms up and then runs fine. During one of these episodes the service engine soon light came on so I took it to a auto parts store that allows me to use a computer to read the codes. It indicated that there was a cyclinder misfire. I had the fuel filter replaced last summer and I also just recently cleaned the EGR valve however it has been 4 years since I had a tune-up. Why does this happen and What should I replace first? Spark plugs? Wires? Cap and rotor? Clogged fuel injector? Bad O2 sensor(s)?
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1998 ford taurus ohv is overheating and coolant is leaking out of fill cap takes forever for the temp gauge to read anything then after 6 or 7 minutes of driving it shoots up to about midway overheats and can hear serp belt squeeling from getting wet from coolant
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I have a 95 4wd f250 with a 351w my manifold gaskets are leaking I was wondering if when I that the time to remove the manifolds and probably be drilling and tapping should I go with headers if I should where can I get a very cheap set I'm on a budget...
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I just checked the HVAC FAQ sticky and found my symptom and problem listed there with corrective action. Extremely useful.
My issue is, I'm on crutches due to a recent foot surgery. Doctor's orders do not allow me to put any weight on that foot for at least another week.
Looking for a picture of these port connections for the truck listed in my signature? I'd like to see where they're located before I hobble on out to the truck. I have a feeling I'm not gonna be able to do this on crutches and my daughters need the A/C working.
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My 95 Ranger has been a good truck in the 6 years I've owned it. I had to pull the heads to replace a leaking head gasket and wound up having the heads rebuilt due to weak valve springs and worn valves. I replaced the gaskets, installed the heads, get it all back together.....won't start. Fuel pressure is good. Found that there is no spark. While putting the crankshaft position sensor connector back on I noticed it didn't look too good. I replaced the connector and that's all I did and no spark. Long story short, after a lot of research, the coil pack, cps and coolant temp sensor were replaced and still no spark.
Everything has the proper voltage to it. After a little more research I found a post with the same basic issue. His issue wound up being the ecm. So I removed the ecm....it's a used one from a salvage yard. I've owned the truck 6 years so I have no idea when the ecm was replaced. It showed up today and will get installed when I get home from work. I also ran across posts about the camshaft sunchronizer and they should be replaced at about 80K miles. Since the truck has 289K I'll replace it. Still no spark. I'm hoping it's the ecm.
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Long story short I am working on an engine that was already dismantled (down to the heads). I am trying to figure out why someone tore the engine down. Vehicle is a recovered theft and it was recovered with all parts.
I removed the exhaust manifolds from the heads to start cleaning them up and replacing the exhaust bolts (rust). When I removed the exhaust manifolds the front two cylinders on the right side (1 and 3) were oily wet. The back two cylinders were sooty and normal. The front cylinder (2) on the left side was not as bad but did have a oily film on top of the valve and valve stem. I do not see any indication of anti freeze or coolant.
I looked at the head gasket and could feel a oil film between layers on 1 and 3. No oil on 2 that I could detect. I'm thinking there was a head gasket problem but not totally convinced. The cylinders and pistons look good from the top and the cylinders still show the cross hatch honing. No ridge on the top of the cylinder either. The motor has 122k miles on it.
Other than head gasket would there be something in common that could feed oil to those cylinders? I have eliminated the turbo. There is no oily film on any intake runners. It could just be a blown head gasket but it is not obvious if it is.
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A retired friend of mine has a 1995 Buick Century with a busted head gasket. Oil is leaking and mixing with the antifreeze. It has roughly 140,000 miles. At the moment he does take it on short trips around the neighborhood.
He has maintained it religiously. It has new brakes, etc. And two years ago he had a rebuilt transmission installed. He still likes the car. And aside from the head gasket everything else runs well on it. Would it be worth fixing? Installing a rebuilt engine?
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I run a 1984 Celica at my local short track in the mini stock 4cyl division.
I had a lot of hesitation & tons of overheating (especially later in the season) on the track late last year. Parked the car for the winter & a few sponsorships later, decided to tear the motor down. New intake and exhaust manifolds new water pump and new head gasket.
Everything came in over the past few weeks & we began to work. We got the head off smoothly and got to the head gasket, which we thought may have been the cause of the overheating. Didn't look THAT bad, but definitely needed replacing. Got it off, wiped the block down to just take a look at it and a half dozen fractures/cracks going from the cylinders themselves to the ports for the coolant.
What engine can I put in this car. Will the motor mounts take any 22r/20r block? Its a 1984 Celica. I'm trying to get the car ready for the track in April and don't have a huge budget. I've found some blocks, 86 pickup 22r, 91 pickup 22re.
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