Ford - Taurus :: Slow Cranking Startups
Feb 16, 2013
Battery was replaced about three weeks ago after noticing slow cranking start-ups. Prior to that, the most recent repair was to replace a faulty coil assembly and ignition wires about nine months ago. The faulty coil assembly caused the car to sputter and lose power.
Currently, after the car has been run for at least a half-hour, and after the engine has been off for a few minutes, 5 or so, the engine will barely crank or won't turn over at all on re-start. I found that after letting the car rest and cool for a little while, I can get it to start, but it cranks very slowly. Once started, the car runs fine. The car always starts fine and cranks over very strongly if the engine is cold.
I've had the charging system and alternator checked, and everything appears to be normal. I've not had any warning lights illuminate on the dash. Fluid levels are all normal. The engine runs fine and does not overheat. Battery connections are tight and wires look okay. What could be done to diagnose the problem?
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1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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This morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
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Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
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So about a week and a half ago I went to crank my 03 6.0 truck up after having driven it to the mountains (about a 5hour round trip) several days ago. It was a little slower than usual but nothing too alarming, got to work and worked a full day, came back to my truck and it took even longer to crank. Drove to my girlfriends house to pick her up, only had it shut off for like 2 minutes hot and when I went to crank it it took two tries. From then on it was only bad at cranking when hot but now it takes 5-8 tries to crank whether it's hot or cold.
I took it to my buddy who owns a diesel mechanic shop and we hooked it up to his computer, everything checked out just fine, oil pressure was good, so was all injectors and ficm voltage, no red flags at all. So I went ahead and changed the icp, nothing, then he told me to change my aftermarket oil filter to motorcraft oil filter, still nothing, I also changed my oil filter drain valve and nothing.
When I'm attempting to crank the truck, after I hold the key attempting to crank it for maybe 8 seconds my oil pressure gauge jumps to normal. I have an ipr on the way to my house and I'm gonna try that as well. Also when the truck gets running it runs just as it ever has, no weird sputtering or stalling or cutting off. But when it does finally crank it puffs out a little black smoke.
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I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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Our 95 TS 3.8 runs hot. I dislike the 195 Thermostat, but winter is coming. Temps can soar to 230 on gauge, with no air.(Now I remember why I had a 180degree thermostat).
I recently replaced a rebuilt delco starter that was about a year old.(faulty solenoid). I cannot recall if the Slow crank problem was there prior. When 230 degrees, intermittently I get a slow crank with dimming of dashboard lights, but bright headlights.
1. I know that the temps are supposed to swing a lot with this vehicle, but 75 degree days, 230 degrees when in heavy traffic is pushing it.(gauge). Is this normal for 195 thermostat?
2. Possible bad windings on new rebuilt starter? Armature drawing excessive amps when hot? Battery cables look okay, but original.
3. Considering a NEW starter and a heat reflector wrap for starter. New battery cables-thicker cable if possible(used welding cable for my old 421S.D.
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My car is a 2005 V6 Touareg. It has 60.000 kilometers on it and had no major issues to this date. It was well maintained. Recently, it developed a problem with starting. Before I go into more details, I have to tell this: my car has two batteries, and they are in perfect condition, verified by the dealer. The spark plugs were changed at 45.000 kilometers. It has no rough running characteristics under heavy acceleration or any hesitation - from what I read, symptoms for bad ignition coils-.
When I turn the key for ignition, the engine turns over but instead of immediately starting, keeps cranking for 2-3 seconds, and finally starts with a slow idle. Sometimes the charging light remains on for several seconds due to the difficult starting and the slow idle, but this does not last and the cars start idling normally, as if nothing happened. This happens when the car sits overnight and the engine is cold. Once it starts, I cannot get the car to do this without waiting overnight. Summertime weather seems to contribute to this but I still get it in the cold winter weather.
Strangely, if I do not use the car for, say, 3 days, the car starts like the day I bought it, without the hesitation.
I took it to a dealer and told them to check it but they said it start normally. They checked to see if the car registers any error but it does not. I am sure of the quality of the fuel I am using. In any case, I tried several different brands from different stations just in case, but this did not make any difference.
Bad ignition coil, idling sensors or mechanism, something wrong with the intake manifold? Carbon build-up (although I have to say this is not likely since the catalytic converter seems to be fine which leads me to believe there is no excessive carbon buildup).
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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On cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
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I purchased a 04 V8 with 22K miles. Very nice ride and huge upgrade from a Grand Cherokee. After noticing slow cranking, I took it by a dealer where we tested the battery. Electronics and battery tested OK. Dealer advised to lock the doors at night when parked in my garage.
I am still having slow cranking, and now experiencing the Traction Control module flashing and error message on the screen. ( It will disappear after I restart in a few minutes.) I am also experiencing a message that the computer is shutting down the consumer electronics.
Alternator showing 13.75-14 volts at first start up, returns to 13+ volts after 15 minutes. Cables, poor battery? I want it to start after sitting at the airport for several days.
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I just replaced two bad sensors, (bank 2, both sensors). I went through three cold start ups, and the autozone codes still claim the sensors are rubbish.
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Just recently I've noticed my front end on my B6 3.6 4mo vibrates during the initial start-up in the morning. After the car warms up the vibrations go away. I had new brakes, oil change and tire rotated recently. I checked the cold start air pressure on the wheels (Nexen 235-40-18) and they are at 38 PSI, cold. All tires still have their balance weights also. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel and seat. This vibration only started after I had the mentioned work done on my car.
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Currently working on a friends 2011 Prius with roughly ~340,000 miles (!!!!!) that was used as a taxi, until now, he bought it from the taxi company and converted it his own daily.
I did a regular oil change on his Prius, and decided to change the spark plugs as at the time there was some sort of occasional shaking/rattle at cold startups. The shaking was gone after changing the spark plugs. This was all done back in March. Yesterday, he was driving, and all of a sudden, the knocking came back, a check engine light, and white like cloud smoke appear. Check Engine lights were P0300, P0301, P0303 (misfire cylinder). I told him to bring it over, I took a look, and his invertor engine coolant was all the way down (he told me he filled it up to top just two weeks ago). I originally thought maybe it was the ignition coils (for shaking), but the white smoke didn't make sense. So I purposely filled the coolant above the full line, and took it out to drive for about half a mile, and just as I suspected when I opened the hood, the coolant level decreased, at least by an inch.
I did not see any oil leaks, and the oil levels were just fine. The car just seems to shake/rattle at startup and when accelerating at low speeds (roughly 8 - 15 MPH) and than goes away, and drives normally. It still does blow off that white/cloud smoke when accelerating hard on the engine though. As for the smell of the smoke, I can't really tell, it is definitely not sweet, but it kind of smells foul/bad.
At this point, I am pretty sure this engine is gone, and the gasket/seal is blown.
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150,000 No loss of power. Only very small loss of oil in 3000 miles. Could it be valve seals. At what point is this a fix it problem. Would like to run car as long as possible. Great car. I had valve seals replaced years ago in a Chevy 305. That was so bad that I needed a stand off plug to prevent fouling and skipping. Should I look to trade or will the fix not be too bad.
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With colder weather upon us here in the States, many of us are experiencing ICE startup with turning the cabin heat on or trying to defrost the front windows. The seat heaters go a long way towards not having to turn on the cabin heat and triggering the ICE, but that doesn’t solve the window defrosting issue.
I was thinking today as we got the first of our seasonal rains here around the Sacramento area, and the ICE kicking in while defrosting the windows, it would be nice to have another non-ICE solution for this. I’m not sure if the technology yet exists, but if there was a defrosting system on the front and side windows similar to the defrosting grid of the rear windows, but invisible to the eye, this might do the trick.
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I have been battling a random reduced power issue with my 2004 Vue, 85000 miles, 4 cyl engine with manual transmission. On random start ups I will get the reduced power and check engine lights. No codes are logged but the freeze data will read mostly 2176 and occasionally a 2101. I have replaced the throttle body and pedal assembly plus checked and reseated the ecm connections. The problem still shows up randomly at start-ups. If it does appear, it seems that if I shut the engine off, turn the key to on without the engine running for about a minute, then restart the car, the car will start ok. It's almost as if the ecm has to relearn the throttle or pedal positions when this occurs.
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