Ford - Taurus :: No Resistance When Pushed The Brakes
Jan 28, 2011
I just bought my car 2 months ago from a dealer, the dealer said they fixed a router and bled the breaks. A week after I got it, I pushed the brakes and they had no resistance on them. I did it again and they were fine, so I just thought I was nuts. Later that week it happened several more times. I had my boyfriend bring it back to the dealer and they drove it and convinced him that Ford just has speed sensing brakes and that it was normal.
It went away for a month so I really didn't say too much more about it. Now every time I hit the breaks there is no resistance until I get it all the way to the floor. It will still stop, but only if it's pushed firmly to the floor, and hitting the brakes all the way to the floor is not a very smart thing to do in the winter, so I have slid many of times because of this. Am I just supposed to live with the supposed "speed sensors" or is there something really wrong?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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So I'm really good with pointing out cars and what engine they may have but im a derp when it comes to going under the hood. Right now I have a 2009 v6 mustang it probably doesn't matter for my question. This has been going on for awhile and I dealt with it cause I couldn't really hear with my music on. Whenever I push on the brakes to stop it makes a pretty noisy and annoying clicking noise until I stop. Not like that weird siren noise you can here from breaks but a click click click sound. What this might be? Brake calipers need a change or what? Last time I checked, probably last year, the brake calipers were still good.
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This truck has been giving us problems off and on for a while now. Whenever I am sitting at a stop light for example and the truck is in drive but I have my foot on the brakes it acts like it's trying to lunge forward and the engine is revving and shaking the whole truck. My husband just drove it this morning and now whenever it gets really wet outside the truck doesn't want to go anywhere. He said he was flooring it and he was only going about 20mph and the engine looked to be shaking bad. I have no clue what could be going on?
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I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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Recently, I changed the brakes on my 2006 Lexus GS300. Everything went real smooth with changing the front and back brakes.
When I took it for a test drive, I immediately noticed a SINGLE knock noise when I pushed on the brakes. Also, I noticed that sometimes when I got +50 mph, I'll hear the knocking noise in a repetitive fashion. If I gently apply pressure on the brakes, the knock noise stops. If I let go of the brake, the knock noise returns. It sounds like the knock noise is coming from the front-driver side area.
What the culprit could be? I've taken the wheel off a few times, took the brake pads off, put them back on, made sure the caliper screws were tight, etc.
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Why won't my hatch light turn off unless, I depress the brake pedal? I even disconnected the wire going to the latch and the light still won't go out?
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1990 Ford Taurus. 82k. Auto TX. I had rear brake drums, shoes and cylinders replaced on the rear. Front brakes check out OK with miles to go. At town speeds 25 mph, I noticed car was braking itself (grip-release -grip-release, etc). Then it went away and has not happened again in about 30 miles of driving in town only. The cylinders are new, so being stuck is probably out. I put on emergency brake and released repeatedly while sitting still just to seeif that thing was rusted up and not moving. Don't know enough about over over-adjusting adjusters? Anyway. I would like to drive this thing on a 100 mile trip. Since it now seems OK, am I good to go? If yes, what to watch for or check on trip? If it makes any difference, the rear brakes were replaced because one cylinder had ruptured and soaked the drum and the shoe. It was all bed properly at the end.
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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In 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
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I changed front rotors and bled brakes. They were hard for a few days and went soft. No leak in fluid (MC reservoir is still full). No leak in fluid near any wheel. Could I need to bench bleed the master cylinder?
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus when I press on the brake to come to a complete stop the transmission slips from second gear to first gear. But when I press on the gas and go from 1st to 2nd gear its a hard shift but no slipping. I checked the transmission fluid it was low and dark so I replenished the fluid and put in this slip and seal stuff in the transmission. What else can I do and how long do you think I will be able to drive my car until it dies completely?
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I gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans. I replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.
If truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.
Truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.
If I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.
It is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. I am 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing.
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What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
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Last weekend my 95 F350 developed an issue where it feels like something in the transmission is dragging in reverse and it moves forward in neutral. This happened suddenly. One minute it was working fine and the next it was acting up. I found some info that leads me to believe that it might be the coast clutch solenoid causing the problem. Today I tested the resistance of the coast clutch solenoid through the PCM connector. I used pin 55 and pin 37 to test it. The resistance is supposed to be between 20 and 30. I got 0. My meter read the same as putting the leads together.
Am I correct in thinking that I need a new solenoid pack or at least a coast clutch solenoid?
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I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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I have a question about when my truck is in 4 wheel drive. I've read a lot of posts but couldn't find specific answers to these questions: When I take a left turn theres quite a bit of resistance and a little hopping. Also when turning in reverse its almost like the truck is getting hung up and a with resistance, something doesn't seem right. Could any of this be if only one hub is engaging? Also, when i just manually lock the hubs, I only noticed that the passenger side axle spins when I manually turn the front drive shaft.
Also this is the first time I've used the 4 wheel drive. And I recently replaced front axle u joints, as well as a double cardan joint rebuild, only issue w/ that is that is i forgot to mark the orientation where the front driveshaft bolts onto the the transfer case...so it's either on the right way or a 180 from how it was before, because I could see the original pattern.
2000 4x4 7.3 long bed ext cab, 159k
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My 02 F350 steering lost all resistance. I can almost spin the steering wheel to each stop. What would cause that? Recent front brake rotor/caliper/pad replacement is the only thing the truck has had done since I've owned it. (2 months now). It's way too loose to be safe.
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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