Ford - Taurus :: Hesitation When Driving In Stop And Go Traffic?
Apr 22, 2011
Hesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
View 5 RepliesHesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
View 2 RepliesOkay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
My car has an exhaust smell coming into the car; seems to be from in front of the passenger side of the engine. Mechanic said it was from leaking valve cover gaskets, which have been replaced about a month ago. The smell is coming back and getting stronger. When I am in stop/go traffic, I have to open the windows. What else could this be caused by?
View 6 Repliesso, I'm driving home the other day in stop and go 102 degree traffic, and my A/C cuts out. I thought maybe my compressor took a dump, because I've noticed a little noise from that side of the engine. Then I look down, and notice my water temp is like 240-250ish. As soon as traffic starts up again, temp goes down to normal, and A/C comes back.
I have a 2 mile commute to work, so it hasn't happened since then.
no DTC's, no rad fan. A/C fan works. Put 12V to fan - no worky. fuse block on top of battery not melted.
Obviously I need a fan, but I was wondering about something else. since this started, my car gets to normal operating temp (NOT), in literally under 2-3 minutes. I know its Texas and a billion million degrees, but I think that's too fast.
Green top coolant temp sensor, and metal impeller water pump already installed.
Recently when I drive for a while in traffic (stop and go) and then park my car for a quick errand and try to restart it won't start. This has only happened on extremely hot days ( over 90 degrees). I replaced the battery after the first time which was in April. It is now June and its happened 2 times in 2 weeks again. I have been able to start it after letting it sit for over an hour or with a jump. I'm getting nervous to run errands and the weather isn't getting any cooler.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 Saturn SL1 with a transmission issue. After driving in stop an go traffic and the trans warms up, it doesn't want to change gears from second to third. I can remedy this if i put the car in neutral, turn it off and back on will continue to run for a bit longer. The longer I'm in stop and go traffic, the more frequent I have to do this. On the highway this is a different story and I can stay in the last gear and drive forever! Also after being in traffic for so long, if I put the car into reverse, I have to lightly feather the gas until it slowly goes into gear.
The last issue which I think might be related is that the idle will sometimes stay extremely high if I put my car into neutral at red lights, which I do often to avoid have to turn the car off and on again to reset the transmission.
I recently replace my catalytic converter with a MagnaFlow direct fit, thinking it may have been clogged. This did not solve my problem. The car only jerks after it has been driven more than 30 minutes. It usually starts jerking once I get back into town (stop and go traffic). I have replace a handful of sensors. I plan on replacing the transmission control solenoid. How many do I need? Where is the TCS located?
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. 98k mi.
I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
I have a 2013 Azera. Occasionally, when I accelerate getting into traffic on a highway, the vehicle seems to die down. After I take my foot off the accelerator and accelerate again, the car acts normally. This has occurred several times. I brought it into the dealer twice and they could not find any problem. This is a serious issue, sinc the car could be rammed by oncoming traffic.
I looked at other problem forums, and found a similar problem listed for a Genesis. See quote here: I've just bought my new 2012 Genesis sedan two months ago and have a very annoying hesitation problem when I'm going a under 5 miles/hour then try to accelerate. Nothing happens when I step on the gas for 1-2 seconds. Almost got me into an accident last week trying to pull into traffic. Took it to the dealer and they claim they could not duplicate the problem. That night, leaving the dealer it happened twice!
When backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
I have a 2001 f250 sd 4x4. For the past year it will blow cold air unless I'm in stop and go traffic then it blows warm air. Engin temp thermostat and water pump are fine. Yesterday it quit blowing all together and it really wouldn't bother me but where I live the morning temps and rainy days are causing the windshield to fog up and my defroster not even working. Where can I start to get this fixed.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Ranger over heats when I stop at traffic lights. I took it to Tire Kingdom and hey suggested a new thermostat and a radiator flush. I did both and it continues. What is the issue?
View 6 RepliesOK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
My AC is working intermittently, best under acceleration, horrible in stop & go traffic. The dealership told me I need a new compressor clutch but the written estimate was to replace the whole compressor assembly. Replacing just the clutch isn't too bad, is it? I'm pretty handy and do a lot of my own work but I typically avoid the AC system. Replacing just the clutch doesn't involve draining the coolant or anything, right?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
View 2 RepliesOn a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
View 7 RepliesIt seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
I have a 2000 ford taurus V6. It sputters going up hills and at stop lights. I've serviced the motor and fixed two cracked vacuum hoses. No engine lights are on. Not sure what to do next....
View 14 RepliesI have 2001 ford taurus the transmission went out on me -as i started from stop light the transmission sounded like it was going into gear all the way I let off the gas and it went into gear this happened a few more times until i got on interstate and when i interstate no problems at all with transmission then I pulled off to go home and mre stop lights it acted same way then after a few more lights i gave it the gas from stop light and no forward gears i do have reverse is a sensor bad ...
View 15 Repliesi have a 98 ford taurus and the other day it just stopped running at a stop light. After having it towed home I took out my jump pack and it started up and ran for like 15 mins and it shut off agen.i jump started it agen but when i took the jump pack off it stopped agen. What I need to look at?
View 5 Replies