Ford - Taurus :: Check Engine Light Keep Flashing - Code PO302 Cylinder 2 Misfiring
Mar 14, 2014
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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Yesterday out of no where my rio started to misfire so i immediately took it into autozone to have it checked. when doing so the check engine light was on, but solid.
The tests came back with P0300, P0301, and P0302 or 3. I cant find the papers, but its 3 cyns that are misfiring. The guy at autozone suggested i try changing out the plugs first since its cheaper and has been known to fix this issue.
The second I bought the plugs I went home and changed them out. once finished i started up the car and not only was the car still misfiring, but the check engine light is now flashing... I did notice one thing when changing the plugs.
If facing the engine the second coil from the left had a bit of what looked to be rust. i was able to wipe it off with ease. What my next move should be?
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i have a 2008 santa fe with a 2.7 61,000 miles 2nd owner ,out of warranty. It started missing and the check engine light came on. I took it to a local parts store who put an analyzer on it an it showed the #3 spark plug was misfiring. I am hoping its the plug. I do my own work but havn`t been able to find a correct sequence to replace the plugs.
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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98 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L OHV, 184K miles. Check engine light is on and code reads "P0411 - secondary air injection system - incorrect flow". This is my son's hand me down car and has a rather large exhaust leak that I plan on fixing. Could this code be related ?? I found out that the CEL has been on for quite sometime now and the car is due for emissions testing (state inspection) in October.
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PO302 CODE . Lets hope that it's only cylinder 2 coil or spark plug !
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So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
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Check engine light on and code is P1451. I have been told its one or all four things:
1. Gas cap,
2. Evap Canister vent solenoid,
3. Evap purge solenoid,
4. Evap canister.
I am trying to fix this problem on the Taurus. I have changed the Gas cap and this did not solve the problem. The other three things on the list: Are these three separate things? Or are they part of the same thing?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S 1.8 with a manual transmission and 30,000 miles. About a month ago the check engine light came on throwing a PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire detected). I reset the check engine light and drove it about a week before the check engine light reappeared again with the PO302 code. I swapped the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the coils on cylinders 2 and 4, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the fuel injectors on cylinders 2 and 3, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared.
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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1997 Ford Ranger with 190K miles has check engine light on with P302 computer code, meaning misfire on cylinder 2. Engine runs rough at idle only once it warms up, which only takes a minute. It is usually fine while driving, but it's a lot easier to feel a misfire at lower RPMs than at higher ones. Added fuel injector cleaner to gas for a couple tanks, no change. My mechanic has checked spark plugs, fuel injector, o2 sensor, and everything is ok. Dry compression test shows good compression. He thinks it may be a valve sticking, which means a valve job: expensive. Is there anything else that can be done? Why is there no misfire when it is first started?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius with just under 30,000 miles. Yes, I don't drive all that much, which makes the Prius the perfect car. I get it serviced every 6 months by the dealer. So far, other than oil changes, the only actual maintenance has been tires, a 12 volt battery, and a $300 "inspection".
A few weeks ago the "Check Engine" light came on. I pulled the code P0301, which translated to "Misfire on cylinder 1". The car was running great at that time, and since clearing the code it has continued to run without the light coming on again. Given that my maintenance is more time-related than mileage-related, it's possible that the ignition system needs attention. However I'm reluctant to bring that up at my next maintenance appointment, because the guy writing up the service order will always answer "Yes" to every "Do I need ..." question.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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