Ford - Taurus :: AC Starts Blasting Super Hot Air When Turned On
Feb 14, 2011
I'm driving a Ford Taurus 2004 and the car's AC is broken. When we turn it on, it starts blasting super hot air, hotter than the outside. We're told that the AC was leaking and the Freon is gone. The guy in the car shop told us that we needed to completely replace our AC system, which costs $1500. If we leave it unrepaired, then the compressor will eventually be stuck, which in turn will destroy the belt. Because the AC compressor, water pump, and alternator are all sharing the same belt in this model, breaking the belt would destroy the car.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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This morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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My 2002 Ford Taurus has 73,000 miles and was in good shape except for a small leak under driver's side. Has a new rack and pinion replaced one week ago. Have now noticed small leakage again. Also, when the steering wheel is turned it makes a clicking sound...almost like winding a clock. Rack and pinion replaced and alignment done. Why would it begin leaking again. This is a very comfortable car and has been maintained.
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We have a 2012 RX450h and it currently has about 60500 miles. These engines are direct injected correct? If so, intake cleaning due to carbon build up?
We also have a 2008 335 and it is recommended that these direct injected cars will require some kind of cleaning at some point in time. It seems that walnut blasting is the recommended method for bmw's but I can't say that I've read anything on these Lexus forums about intake cleaning.
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Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
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I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 L Diesel w/200,000+ miles on it.
I use the truck for snowplowing and last snowfall one of my employees broke the overdrive switch on the PRNDL shift lever. I just replaced it and as I went to start the truck I had just turned the key to run in order to let the glow plugs warm up and the truck attempted to start itself.
As it was running I could hear the starter continue to run although I never fully turned the key. I have since then replaced the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder. That didn't fix the issue, I then pulled the fuse box that is inside the cab of the truck to inspect the GEM module. Other than lots of dust there was no corrosion or any see-able issues with the module. I cleaned all connections thoroughly and even applied a little dielectric grease to the connections.
Still has the same issue, I ran a voltmeter to the trigger wire on the starter relay and it reads 10V when the key is turned to run. I believe it should not read any voltage until the key is turned to start. If I have the trigger wire on the starter relay disconnected the truck won't start, obviously. I don't believe the starter relay is bad because it does start only when the key is in the run position and it has never attempted to start without the key.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I purchased the vehicle roughly in 2007 by auction. About 3 years ago, I notice that the car sometimes has trouble turning on but I saw it as a sight nuisance at the time. As I turn the key to start the engine there is a delay and when it does turn on it makes some disturbing noises but this is not a routine occurrence. I thought it might be the battery so I purchased a new one. I had a mechanic look at the car and he said it was the catalytic converters but I'm not sure since it passed the smog test without any problems. The car also trembles at times and releases white smoke from the exhaust pipe. I have looked at the oil stick and it has little bubbles which I'm not sure when that started. My boyfriend seems to think that it has something to do with the spark plugs.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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My 7.3L GPR does not trip when the key is turned over. I have the 12v constant and never get anything out of the two smaller wires. I can lay a screwdriver over a small pole and the 12V constant and I get the 12v on ther other larger pole, and around 8v on the smaller poles. My wait to start light does come on and stays on for a short period of time. I have ohmed out the glow plug relays and the injectors.
Here are my numbers passenger side (front to rear)-----0.6, 0.5, 3.8, 3.4, 3.4, 4.0, 0.5, 0.8
and the driver side was (front to rear)-----1.0, 1.0, 3.7, 3.4, 3.4, 3.4, 1.0, 1.0...
My questions would be is there a problem with my PCM or is it just more likely the wire from the GPR to the under hood connector at PCM. If so where can I find a wireing layout to test that. One last thing with my truck is that it has an after market alarm with keyless start that no longer works and is just in valet mode. Not familiar with the way these alarms are wired do they cut into the wire that turns on the GPR. Could this just be my whole issue?
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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I have a 2001 F250 V10 5-speed that I've had for about 3 years with 60,000 miles on it that I drive about once a week. About 4 months ago I stopped at a convenience store for 3 minutes and when I came out truck wouldn't start. Turned over strong had fuel rail pressure but wouldn't start. Had it towed home and was going to investigate the next day but the problem was gone.
2 months ago I stopped to get gas and went into the store and came back out and everything was dead-no audible with key and door open, not instrument cluster lights....as if it didn't even have a battery in it. I pulled the negative cable from the battery for a couple of minutes and put it back on and it started back working. It worked until 2 days ago and had the same problem with everything electrical being dead and removing and replacing the negative cable brought it back to life as before.
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I just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
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When I turned it on for a second, last winter, I rem hearing a clunk, and then another clunk when I turned it off. Made sense to me.. So, I figured I'd just activate it again now, and roll up and down the driveway once to exercise it. BUT, when I turned it on this time, the light came on, but no clunk when it came on, or off. I went up and down the driveway anyway, and I THINK it felt like it was ON, but I didn't make any turns, because I figured that would be bad.
Any one that is silent when it locks? I think I saw a post where everyone said it's supposed to clunk on/off. Could it just be the season/temps, only clunks in winter? I have a 4x2 btw, so it's just a turn switch. I hope it's not stuck or frozen somehow already..
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Truck wont start with key. It has a brand new battery, brand new starter & brand new solenoid. When I turn the key to the on position the lights come on but it wont start. The truck will start when I jump the solenoid. Im wondering if its the ignition key cylinder or the ignition switch, or maybe something else like a relay or faulty wire. Where I should start or what the problem could possible be?
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