Ford - Taurus :: 2007 Bucks In A Snow Storm
Jan 21, 2012
I have a 2007 Taurus and for all intents in purposes the car runs great, expect during a snow storm. I drive 30 miles on the hwy too and from work. During a snow storm no matter how bad or if snow is blowing or on the ground my car bucks. I don't know how else to explain it. It is like the transmission is slipping but I know that it isn't because it happens for only a split second. It almost seems like the car wants to shut-off or the brakes are grabbing. This will happen the entire way to work or home every few miles but only during a snow event.
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I drive a 2008 nissan sentra (98xxxmiles). I commute 100 miles daily and have an issue that occurs only when it is snowing. Regardless of how much snow is on the ground, every time there is decent snow fall my car will randomly buck. feels almost as though my transmission slips for just an instant and then regains control. for a while, i had to study this issue before i could fully wrap my head around it. I took the car to my shop and they could detect nothing wrong with the car, which is definitely not the case. I suspect that there is an issue with a sensor or an actuator involved with the overdrive that is having the issue. But I could be wrong.
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While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
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2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
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My 2012 Santa Fe GLS 2.4L jerks and bucks while coasting. When you let go of the gas pedal the car would jerk. Is that normal for the car. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
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I live in an area where we don't really get any snow, very rare. But when it does, everything shuts down because our city doesn't have the proper equipment (salt, plow trucks, etc.)no one here owns snow tires, and we're all inexperienced. It snowed today around the same time as the drive back home and it took forever because it was rush hour at 5:00 pm (Fairly populated city, around 440,000 people).
Needless to say almost everyone was going super slow, 20-25 mph. Couple of people in SUVs were going fairly fast, but generally everyone was being safe. I saw a couple of accidents but nothing too crazy. I had never driven in the snow before in my LS460L. WOW. that was a stressful and long drive back. What normally takes me 30 minutes to get home took me close to 2 hours. While everyone was going very slow, I went EVEN SLOWER because of how nervous I was.
I felt like I never accelerated too fast or aggressively, and I did slow controlled braking (did not slam my brakes abruptly or anything). Yet every other time where I had to come to a complete stop, the rear part of my car would lose control and slide/slip to one side or another. Again, I felt like I was driving cautiously slow (between 10-20 mph) and did nice and slow controlled brakes. But I seemed to be the only one on the road slipping and sliding when at a stop.
The conditions were pretty snowy, but by no means was it crazy (maybe an inch or two of snow). Something that would be laughable to those who are used to real snow . That was a really scary and long drive. I am glad to be home. and I don't plan on driving my car out in the snow anytime soon.
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My 07 Elantra SE (5 speed manual) without ESC is terrible in the snow. While traveling at almost any speed, and braking around a turn, the rear end (under icy conditions) will break free and the car is out of control. No warning was given. While traveling in a straight line on hard-pack snow (icy) with ruts, the rear end gave way and I ended up in the ditch. Didn't break or turn the wheel prior to this.I love the car but am afraid to drive it in the snow. Does ESC (electronic stability control) take care of this problem? I love the car otherwise; always get over 30 mpg (usually 33-34 mpg).
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I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
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Pretty much like clockwork. Every 9 seconds the power dies for about 1 second and then comes back on. Sometimes the Theft light comes on.
If I am at idle, the car dies. No check engine light. The car has had all new ignition parts in the last year except battery and alternator.
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What is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
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So, back in July I had some issues with my V10 F250 not cranking after a bad rain storm. (New battery was installed May 2011) and ended up recharging the battery & replacing the alternator. Have not had any problems since until yesterday as I was going to use the pickup. I drove it on Thursday with no problem and Friday Tropical Storm Lee came in with TONS of rain. Now NOTHING AGAIN. I also noticed a drop of water coming from overhead console (trip computer module that has not worked since I've had it).
So I pulled the overhead console out and water was beaded around the center overhead clearance light opening. I dried that one with a paper towel and looked under the headliner and others were slowly leaking. After looking the center one already had a drop beaded again. Would this cause a short that would drain the battery? Also having the battery drained so bad twice in 2-3 months is this going to degrade the capacity of my 5 month old battery?
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I have a 2007 Ford Taurus, the factory car alarm goes off without any apparent reason. It had been a garaged car but has been sitting outside for about the last 10 months. It started doing this in May so I thought it might be heat related due to the high temps we have been experiencing in the midwest??
Sometimes when I get home from work around 5:30pm it will go off within 5 minutes of me getting home. Then other times it will wait until 2 or 3am. I can't lock my doors in my driveway anymore or my neighbors are going to come over and tear the horn completely out.
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My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
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When I got home from a long drive I noticed this white-ish smoke coming from under the hood. I opened it and found that the tube for the window wash was disconnected so I re connected it. Idk if that's what was causing the smoke or not. I also noticed That at the bottoms there was something leaking from the tube. See pics. Bottom tube with the silver connector. What do these go to? The smell was kinda sweet.
[URL] .....
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While pullin in my 7.3 with a 4r100 from a passing hail storm, i shut her down and crawled under it just to check things out. While under there I heard a noise that sounded like something was shorting out figured out the location of the noise, but what the electrical connector is for?
passenger side next to exhaust
After further analysis the noise only happens after truck has been placed in drive gear and then to park gear and finally shut down/turn engine off... Makes noise for around 30 seconds and is not a constant short noise like something is jumping around....
More pics about the problem that is hard to get too and explain where it is...
Just behind the tranny line....
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I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
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My 9 month old Prius was caught in 3" - 4" hail today. My windshield is smashed and all the horizontal surfaces look like popped bubble wrap including the tops of the doors. Perhaps I'll get 90 mpg from now on.
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I own a 2009 touring that I bought with 96000 miles and now have about 105k on it. I have changed the 12v battery to the optima and changed plugs, transaxle fluid, inverter fluid about 4 months ago. I have changed oil and filter twice since I owned it. (June 2012)
Now the problem, I got stuck on the Long Island Expressway (aka the LIE "the worlds biggest lie"), the snow got too deep and I was struggling to keep going. While driving the slip warning light (VSC)came on often.
I had a friend with 4WD tow me home about 10 miles varying speeds from 10mph to about 35mph, I kept the car in neutral most of the time and when I saw hybrid battery getting low (last blue or first purple)I would put car in drive to charge it. When we got to my house, I had to dig out a spot in front then was able to drive vehicle for the few feet to get it out of the middle of the street.
Yesterday I tried to start car and it looks like the 12v battery was drained. I am. It sure if I pushed the park button and then turned car off but I do normally so I would say that I did. I tried to jump it and I got lights on dash with the dreaded red triangle and engine light among others. The touch screen display read that the vehicle was not in park and I should get to a flat surface and apply parking brake. Also the light on the power button would sometimes be green and then go amber and the park light was flashing green. I could not get shift lever Togo into drive or reverse or neutral.
I did put a trickle charger on it overnight from the engine compartment but have not ventured out there yet.
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My wifes 3V mountaineer has had a bad miss for a long time now. It seems fine until around 40-60 mph where it bucks and misses bad. I replaced all the plugs and it went away for a while but its back again. So far Ive replaced 3 of the coils with the accel coils but its just a shot in the dark really. Any easy way to check the coils or cylinder to see which one is truly the culprit?
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2300k engine. Car stopped running on highway during a rain storm. Checked spark and its ok.checked compression and its ok. Fuel is at 45 psi at port. Changed crankshaft positioning sensor. Dont know what else to check? Still wont start!
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2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
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