Ford - Taurus :: 2005 - Clicking Noise Coming From Needles In The Dash
Oct 14, 2012
The problem is intermittent: After turning off the car, there is a clicking noise coming from the needles in the dash. Sometimes the needles click and jump repeatedly; sometimes there is just the clicking noise. To get it to stop, I'll turn the ignition switch several times. At this point, the car seems "dead" but not from the battery. The car actually will not do anything electrically including popping the truck, unlocking, etc. It will not start.
After turning the switch several times, the car would eventually start like nothing was ever wrong with it. I am just guessing that there is something wrong with the switch or something electrical. I also want to think it coincides with something to do with the battery. The problem seems to be worse after checking and seeing that the battery may be low. We have had the alternator checked, we've had the battery itself checked, etc. In addition to driving around with an angry (bad) catalytic converter, this problem, etc, I really would like to send it off of a ravine.
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2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine. Only at idle has a popping noise out of throttle body. Found lots of people with same problem but no fixes.
I did find out noise goes away when unhook alternator wire and comes back when reattach. Found someone replaced there alternator and that didn't fix it either. I think its electrical?
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Hearing a clicking noise as the needles sleep back after their start up dance. Dealer claiming it is normal ..
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Hearing a definite (and quite annoying) clicking sound as the needles sweep back from the start up. Dealer says it is normal. How difficult is it to turn it off?
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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2001.5 Passat 1.8t auto 98k.
It sounds as though I have a relay in the relay panel behind the headlight switch clicking on and off while I am driving. I searched the archives a bit and through my own reasoning, I figured it is not related to the hazard switch or turn signal stock ( I could be wrong though).
Description: It only clicks while I have my foot on the accelerator and the car is in motion, never other wise. It is not dependent on throttle location; it clicks the same way regardless of where the throttle is as long as it's being pressed. The clicking stops completely when the throttle is not being pressed.
Because of this, I am unable to locate the exact relay that is making the noise as it is impossible for me to open the door and look at the relay panel while driving. The clicking is some what erratic; It will click, pause for 2-4seconds click again then wait anywhere from 2 to 10 seconds and repeat. It's driving me nuts. Evap? Is this normal? Can it be stopped?
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I have 2010 GS350 and after starting the car several times yesterday there was a very loud clicking noise coming from the dash near the glovebox.
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I took my car to the dealer last week to repair a clicking noise coming from the juncture of the right front windshield and dash. They said they added felt to the speaker grill and fixed it. NOT SO, still makes the noise, it is better though seems to get better when the weather is warmer. How to get the speaker grill off without damaging it. If so I will try to address the thing myself.
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I bought a brand new 2013 Corolla S just 10 days ago. Everything seemed to be working great and I was really enjoying my car, until yesterday when we had a slight drizzle. I put my wipers into intermittent mode, and immediately noticed an audible "click" sound similar to that of the turn signals.
I was quite freaked out at first, so after parking my car I investigated a bit and found the noise was coming from the dash rather than from the wipers. After a few hours of digging around on the Internet, I'm 95% certain it's coming from the wiper relay, and that this is supposed to be "normal".
This is bugging the hell out of me, so my question is, if you can replace just the wiper relay, or would you have to replace the entire stalk/motor assembly? At this point I actually don't mind shelving out $200 if it means I can get some peace of mind, literally.
Which reminds me, if say you could get an OEM (or an ever better aftermarket) wiper relay, and you went to a mechanic to have it installed, would that void the warranty?
I understand there's variations and tolerances exist in manufacturing, but you'd think Toyota would've gotten something as simple as a wiper relay figured out! The 2013 Corolla S I rented for 3 months never had this issue, nor did my mom's 2005 Corolla, or my dad's 2011 RAV4. So why my car?
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I have an 2005 VW Touareg. I purchased it 1 month ago with 8919 miles on it. I love the thing! However I have a rattle coming from the part that is below the passenger dash. The good thing is it only rattles when i hit a big bump, however when u pay 30k + this is the last thing you want to hear. See Pic. How to remove this black panel so i may fix it? Dealer was no luck the typical "I didn't hear any rattles" ....
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There is a knocking sound coming from the passenger side dash board in my 2010 Taurus. I found a youtube video that indicated in was a recirculation door motor. I replaced that but the knocking is still there.
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My 2002 Ford Taurus has 73,000 miles and was in good shape except for a small leak under driver's side. Has a new rack and pinion replaced one week ago. Have now noticed small leakage again. Also, when the steering wheel is turned it makes a clicking sound...almost like winding a clock. Rack and pinion replaced and alignment done. Why would it begin leaking again. This is a very comfortable car and has been maintained.
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I have a 05 f150, on initial startup ALL of my needles shake for about 5 seconds and then return to normal operation. What is wrong.
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I have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
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I have a 08 F150 king ranch and have a couple of issues. There is a strange sound coming from the dash behind the gauges it sounds like a computer hard drive clicking and the heater seems to be stuck on will not even blow outside fresh air.
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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2005 FX4 truck. Doesn't click when going straight, but if turning wheel like turning into or out of a parking spot, it makes a clicking noise that gets faster as you get faster. It sounds almost like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke honestly. Don't know if its related, but about 3 months before i noticed the sound I had the Rancho quick lift struts installed on the truck. Somebody told me it could be wheel bearings but in my experience a wheel bearing will make a roaring noise, and it would roar while going straight down the road. This is only when turning the wheels. Also, it doesn't matter if you turn left or right, you can hear it both directions.
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My mom was driving to pick me up and she said that all of a sudden about half way here that the car started making a knocking sound and white smoke started coming from hood, the car was also trying to shut itself down while she was trying to pull over. It is a 2000 ford taurus with like 130k. I am so scared that it is the head gasket because my mom, myself and my daughter, and my 16 year old sister all share that car to get around. Is there anything else it could be besides that or is that probably what it is?
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I drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
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