Ford - Taurus :: 2005 - Squealing Sound From Engine When Wet
Apr 21, 2012
2005 Ford Taurus
It always makes this sound when I first start and it is wet outside. After a few minutes the sound stops, presumably after whatever is squealing dries up.
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My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
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My 05 Avalon Touring rear brake sequel quite loudly when reversing any time of the day, after that no sound throughout the whole day going forward or reverse. It only happens if the car is parked for a while, as in 5 hours or more. I checked out the breaks and the pads still have quite of life left in them, and the rotors are still in great condition. I also took them to sears auto center (only place I can actually trust), they said I don't need any brake services for a while and everything is great.
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2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine. Only at idle has a popping noise out of throttle body. Found lots of people with same problem but no fixes.
I did find out noise goes away when unhook alternator wire and comes back when reattach. Found someone replaced there alternator and that didn't fix it either. I think its electrical?
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2003 Ford Taurus, Vulcan V6 (OHV), 40k miles. I picked it up in January, occasionally I would hear a "chirp" sound with the engine running. I assumed it was the serpentine belt and replaced it. It seemed to work.
Today the chirping started once the car was warmed up. I did some research and discovered the chirp sound is a symptom of a worn synchronizer. I checked with a mechanics stethoscope and verified the chirp is coming from the area of the synchronizer.
I'm debating doing the repair myself, regardless I won't do the repair until the weather warms up. It not my primary car, but I would still like to drive it a couple times a week. The chirping is intermittent for the moment. Am I risking anything driving it as is?
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When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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I have the 4-cylinder "I4", 2.4 L engine in my 2006 Sonata.
Yesterday, it started sounding like this: [URL] ....
Actually, yesterday it didn't sound as bad. Today I sprayed some BELT DRESSING on it, and NOW it sounds like this!
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I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L truck. Originally, there was a squealing sound (which has now turned into chirping) coming from the engine, so I replaced the serpentine belt. That didn't do it. So upon research online, I preceded to check all the pulley wheels for wobble, grinding sounds. The only thing I found of concern was the a/c compressor pulley. It was making a slight grinding sound, so I thought maybe I'll buy a shorter serpentine to bypass the a/c altogether. That didn't fix it.
The chirping only happens when I put the truck in drive or reverse, and increases when I accelerate. Sometimes as I'm driving it'll stop momentarily until I either take my foot off the gas or accelerate even more. I've checked everything I could inside the engine compartment, without taking anything apart. I've had my wife put the truck in gear so that I can try to locate the sound, but I've had no luck. I don't want to take the truck in, until I can identify the problem, and maybe even fix it myself.
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I started up my 2004 v8 phaeton with 49k mies for the first time in two weeks and it made an awful squealing sound that seems to be coming from the front of the engine. it also seems to be idling very roughly, this may or may not be related to the noise. it has never made this sound before and i am scared to drive it until i get an idea of what it is. i am afraid it is the timing belt and the i will ruin the whole engine on the way to the dealership.
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First, my g/f and I love her 2.0T, but lately a few things have started to bother us.
1. Strange, rhythmic squeeling at low speeds (like a bearing or warped rotors) that goes away when the brakes are applied.
2. Driver's seat is rocking back and forth under heavy acceleration and braking. I hope it's just a loose bolt and not a crack in the floorpan.
3. Check engine light randomly comes on for a day or two then goes off conveniently after we schedule an appointment with the service department.
What might be causing these issues?
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What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
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2005 Taurus. 82K miles, 3L, 6cyl, OHV engine, auto transmission. Occasionally the tachometer goes crazy. When this happens, it seems like the car loses some power. The reading on the tach is definitely incorrect when this happens (needle all over the place). Replacing something called the "speed sensor" ??? Couldn't find anything else that this problem may point to ??
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I have determined that I need to replace the Passenger side Universal Joint I got all 4 wheels off the ground and ran it and if you turn the wheel the passenger one Locks and will not budge. But besides that when I am driving strait I get a squealing Barking sound every now and then. If I engage the 4X4 it goes away. I thought it was a bearing but they spin freely and have no play in them at all.
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2005 Taurus - 6cyl - 3L - 85K. 2nd post on this on. Have had this vehicle to 2 mechanics now and problem is still there. First mechanic checked the refrigerant pressures, added dye, couldn't find a leak. Told me that he had to add a small amount of R134 and the pressures were "spot on" but the problem was still happenning so he supposedly trouble-shot the system and found it to be electrical. He said that the controls on the dash were causing the problem and changed them. When I picked it up, everything worked fine for the first day. After that, the same thing happenned where it would intermittently work.
I took it back to another mechanic (who specializes in AC work) and he evacuated and recharged the system (also said that he added dye and couldn't find any leaks). When I questioned this, he said the pressures were low and that would cause the intermittent loss of the AC cooling. This time, it work for 2 days and then the same thing happened where it intermittently works. There is no pattern at all to it working. Sometimes it's when the car is first started ; sometimes it quits just driving down the highway ; and sometimes it quits for 5 minutes and then just comes back blowing ice cold air. I suggested the AC compressor clutch or coil to the 2nd mechanic and I'm not sure he even checked it. Does this "still" sound like a leak somewhere or more electrical ?
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I have a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0 v6.. Where the fuel filter is located ??
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Back again.. I just replaced the HPOP and IPR valve on my truck a few weeks ago. While the turbo was out I cleaned it and applied a small amount of anti seize on the unison ring. When installing the turbo I had moved the y-pipe a little to get the turbo in place. About a week after it was running again I started to get a squealing noise under acceleration. The noise isn't a whistle like the turbo but an actual squeal. Its a little bit louder than the turbo whistle. If I am in park and rev the engine it doesn't happen. It only happens when I accelerate and seems to be when there is boost. If I let off the gas pedal the noise stops. I don't have an issue with making boost. I did replace the turbo boot when it was apart a few weeks ago so I don't think that is the problem I checked the y-pipe clamp and down-pipe clamp and both are fine. I replaced the serpentine belt this past weekend and checked all pulleys, they were all very good with no play. Another thing, the pitch of the noise seems to change with rpm's too. What could be causing this type of noise?
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My 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
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The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
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01 taurus pushrod motor. Vulcan? Today it started idling poor/ stalling. I can hear a popping sound from muffler. Almost like a coffee percolator. No codes. Motor seems quiet. No odd noises or metallic sounds. Friend says burnt valve? Last week or so I thought I heard exhaust drone on acceleration. Almost like a hole in muffler. But muffler is good, same as exhaust pipes. The perc sound is not rhythmic. Sort of uneven. Like a chugging/ puffing sound. Intake manifold leak? Upper/lower? This year does not have IMT. Intake tuner device?
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So heres the story..........'02 Escape, 179K miles, just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, ever since then I've smelled oil burning when the car starts up and every now and then after exiting the car. Also have had the check engine light on intermittently for the EGR insufficient flow for the past few months. It comes and goes whenever it wants. Today Wifey called me and said something was wrong with the car, I drove it home (about 26 miles). The car runs fine as shifts through the gears, but as soon as it gets a load put on it, it cant pull hard like it used to and it gets a high pitched/squealy whistle similar to a turbo that's spooled up.
Its hard to say where its coming from but from what I can tell I'd say somewhere under the hood near the glove box. (that's the only way I can think of to describe it). There's a big long hill right outside her work that I wasn't sure I was gonna make it up. Car just didn't have any power and couldn't decide what gear to be in as RPMs were too high in a lower gear but wouldn't pull in the higher gear. Car pulls hard off the bottom but falls flat in the midrange. I was thinking maybe clogged cat but what would the whistling sound be?
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The problem is intermittent: After turning off the car, there is a clicking noise coming from the needles in the dash. Sometimes the needles click and jump repeatedly; sometimes there is just the clicking noise. To get it to stop, I'll turn the ignition switch several times. At this point, the car seems "dead" but not from the battery. The car actually will not do anything electrically including popping the truck, unlocking, etc. It will not start.
After turning the switch several times, the car would eventually start like nothing was ever wrong with it. I am just guessing that there is something wrong with the switch or something electrical. I also want to think it coincides with something to do with the battery. The problem seems to be worse after checking and seeing that the battery may be low. We have had the alternator checked, we've had the battery itself checked, etc. In addition to driving around with an angry (bad) catalytic converter, this problem, etc, I really would like to send it off of a ravine.
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