Ford - Taurus :: 2003 - Speedometer Fluctuates On Idling, Car Sometimes Stalls Out
Nov 7, 2013
My 2003 ford taurus SES randomly has problems with the speedometer fluctuating from 0 to 10 mph upon idling. Sometimes the car will eventually stall out but always restarts without a problem. You can feel it "jerk" when changing gears or what I describe as a "hesitation" once in awhile. The car is an automatic and we have already replaced the relay and the voltage regulator/alternator - that has not workeded. I can't afford to keep throwing money into it replacing parts that don't fix the problem. What could be wrong?
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I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
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Idiot light was on for battery charging issues. Sanded all ground connections. Soldered battery cable connections. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new alternator. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new interstate batteries. Brought old alternator to be rebuilt, rebuilder said it was strong as could be, needed no work, high output alternator. Reinstalled old high output alternator. Scan gauge now shows charge output of 13.9 V to 14.1 V
Idiot light still on, flickers like a loose connection, sometimes lights constantly.Occasionally speedometer fluctuates wildly, when fluctuating like this at idle, the truck will stall, so far it restarts...so far. When it has stalled the speedometer still fluctuates wildly for a few seconds truck will restart and seem fines but this will play out again next day or so. Occasionally ABS light comes on, occasionally water in fuel light comes on and they go away after abit, some times after a restart, not always though
Thought it might be cam positon sensor however not certain with the instrument lights also acting as they do. Have had one cam position sensor open circuit code once, about to trip out west to Monatana & Colorado and back home to Ma in a couple of weeks, hoping not to be stranded somewhere in between those places!
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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My Grandaughter's husband just HAD to install another radio and amp and speakers in his car. Now the speedometer won't work. Does that car have a speedo cable or is it electronic? It is not digital.
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What is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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I have this weird problem that the car suddenly stops running while on the road. It has happened 3 times in the past 14 months. Every time it happened, my speed was less than 10 mph in slow traffic. And it was after I had driven over 15 minutes on the highway without any signs of trouble. The check engine light and low engine oil light would come on while the stall happened. After the stall, the car would not start. But after 20 minutes or so, the car would start normally, and it would run without any problem for months.
I have brought the car to a mechanic to diagnose the problem. I was told that it might have been caused by a faulty exhaust valve. The valve was replaced 5 months ago, but the stall happened again earlier this week. About a month ago the starter died and I went to a different shop to replace it. I was told that the cover gasket was leaky but it should not cause noticeable problem. After the starter replacement, I also started to notice that the car would occasionally vibrate abnormally for about 30 seconds after starting. I am not sure whether this is related to the stalling problem.
I cannot tell whether it is an engine problem or an electrical problem that is causing the engine to stall.
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2003 f250 6.0 had a no start issue at first which ended up being bad connection/ chaffed wire at ficm.. ive replaced regulator with blue spring, new oil/fuel filter housing, new Motorcraft filters, and a orileys fuel pump.... guage i have reads 55psi at start up. While accelerating it obviously drops down, but it seems to goto 40 to 45psi then back to 50..then at times it goes back down while driving and stays around 40 45psi regardless if accelerating or coasting etc. Then after couple mins when i accelerate it will go back up?
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I didn't see this problem anywhere. this car feels like the whole engine just fell out for just a second. it doesn't really stall but you can feel that there are weird things going on with the shifting. I'm scared to say transmission. my sister had a car that did the same thing but when it was accelerating..not braking and it was the rear sensor. I don't understand sensors or how it could make an engine do that but I don't know anything about cars. we've checked all fluids and all are ok.
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
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My truck starts right up, then immediately almost stalls or stalls completely. It also shakes a little when idling while its in Park. I just recently had my egr valve, pcv valve, spark plugs&wires, and fuel filter replaced. it has 104,000 miles on it. What could be causing it to do this?
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Ok, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
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I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
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My 1997 town and country van stalls when I brake or idle otherwise it drives fine what could that be?
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