Ford - Taurus :: 2003 - A/C Won't Work On Hot Days?
Jul 24, 2011
The manually-controlled air conditioning in my 2003 Ford Taurus can't take the heat (literally). If the outside air temperature is under 85 degrees, it works like a champ, but as the day gets hotter, the cold air disappears. This happens regardless of whether I've driven the car previously that day. My mechanic checked the coolant level, compressor, and sensors and all were fine and the AC was cold. He left the car sit outside in the sun for a few hours and voila - no AC! (BTW, it can happen when the car is parked in my garage too if it's a hot day). He says something is triggering a false temperature message telling the system to shut down. He wants to dig into the wiring in the system to look for a problem.
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My A/C does not work on my Taurus. It never has since I bought the car about 7 months ago. A few days ago I attempted to add freon. I started adding it with the A/C on at max. As I started adding A/C my compressor kicked on and started making an ominous noise; the sound was of air hissing for about 2.5 - 3 seconds punctuated by a click. So it would go something like this: airrrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrr CLICK etc... My A/C starting to cool EVERSO slightly; almost imperceptible. It was advertised as having COLD A/C but I could not very well test it as I bought it in the dead of winter.
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My Grandaughter's husband just HAD to install another radio and amp and speakers in his car. Now the speedometer won't work. Does that car have a speedo cable or is it electronic? It is not digital.
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I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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The back turn signals on my 93 ford taurus wont work but the front ones do. i checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything was good. the brake lights work and the head lights but no turn signals. same with the hazard lights. front ones work but no back ones. what should i try?
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Fuel pump does not work in Cold Weather, but works fine in warm weather? Will replacing the pump solve this or is there a bad sensor somewhere else causing the problem?
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Took the stereo out and snipped a white/red wire abd connected them back together and now my interior lights, windows, wipers and trunk button wont work.
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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2002 4.6L 75K Miles ... Truck has hard time starting if it sits for a few days. Recently had the fuel filter (under driver's door) replaced for first time, and mechanic said it was clogged (?). He also checked fuel pump pressure and said it was good (about 40 lbs). Truck starts OK if used every day. Battery seems OK, as starter turn engine fine. Seems that there's a fuel problem.
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As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
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After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
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I am a new diesel owner. So I'm not too familiar, how to trouble shoot. I am however, pretty familiar with working on gasoline vehicles. I have a 1999 E-450 Shuttle Bus that will not start after parking it for just 3 days. I live in the area where weather has been above 90 degrees each day. I've charged the batteries, replaced them, and boosted, still no start. I have fuel coming in the bowl. And the battery meter on dash is showing that I'm cranking at around 14 volts.
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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My 2003 Taurus wagon stalled and ran out of gas even though the gauge read 1/4 full. Called AAA they came and put a can of gas (less than 2 gals.) in and the car started. I went to the nearest gas station a block away and filled the tank. It took only 10 gals. That means that there was 3 or 4 gal. in the tank when it stalled. What gives?
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My 2003 Ford Taurus vibrates when I am going between 60-80. Before and after those speeds it is fine. I read an article from Tom and Ray in my local paper that instructed to do a couple things to see what it could be. I cut out the article and have never seen it again! One step was to drive on the freeway and take your foot off the gas to see if the vibration stopped. If it did, such and such was the problem, etc. I think another thing to try was put it in N.
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with over 117,000 miles on it. I use the car to get home from Texas to Florida about twice a year, but otherwise hardly touch it since I'm a college student. I've noticed lately that the car has been jumping when either waiting at a light or driving at lower speeds.
However, yesterday something strange happened. I was waiting at a light and the car started bucking more than usual. It was at night, so the dashboard lights started fading and the car stopped. The air and radio worked still after the car shut off, but the car wouldn't move. I tried cranking it, but it wouldn't crank. I pulled the keys out, cranked and it started it successfully. While it waited at the light it bucked violently. Then, when the light turned green it ran no problem like it normally does at normal speeds. When I got to my car parked at my place, I let it sit in the parking lot for five minutes running and it didn't buck once.
I am about due for an oil change. I haven't reached 3,000 miles yet, but my last change was in August. I've read a few other topics with similar problems on here and people have suggested transmission flushes. I did have my transmission fluid flushed at about 70,000 miles. Is it possibly due for another one?
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My 2003 shakes/jerks back and forth at 55 mph. Took to a mechanic, they found nothing...car did not jerk. Check engine light on (although it has been on for years)... Checked transmission codes and found nothing...could be oxygen sensor?
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My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
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i have an 03 ford taurus. recently i noticed a grinding sound when braking. My first thought was that i needed new brakes. I want to the mechanic, they did a courtesy inspection and found nothing wrong with them! the rotors are smooth with no grooves, the pads look almost brand new! the mechanic seemed baffled. when i bought the car the brakes that are on now. it's just recently that i have noticed the grinding sound. The mechanic ruled out other possible problems such as bad bearings and shocks...etc.. What could be the problem?
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2003 Ford Taurus, 49k miles, 3.0 OHV V6 (Vulcan).
It's my daughter's car, she's away at college, so it only gets driven once a week at the most. For the last year or so when I turn the key to start, the starter starts to turn, hesitates for a second, and then turns over and starts the car. I've been assuming the battery was a little run down from sitting so much. There are no noises, clicking or grinding, just this slight hesitation. The battery terminals are clean.
Last night it wouldn't start on the first try, I had to turn the key 2 to 3 times before the starter would turn the engine over. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it tested fine but needs a charge (~12.2V). I'm slow charging the battery with a Battery Tender so it's going to take a while.
This hesitation, is it a sign of a failing starter?
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