I have 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Currently the brake light is on and the ABS and traction control are not working. The brakes have been checked and are ok and it has been hooked up to a code reader and no codes come up. Occasionally the light will go off and the abs and traction control work for awhile.
View 1 RepliesMy 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
2009 F-150 FX4 5.8 .... Had a couple days of 20's temps, started truck last night and I have the brakes symbol and ABS light staying on, with the message "Check brake system" and the traction control symbol alternating back and forth. On a 16 mile trip, they all went out just once, for about ten seconds when I restarted at the gas station. Then came back on. Brake job done within the last two years by previous owner at the dealership.
View 2 RepliesEvertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesHow to disable traction control system on Prius 2002 ?
View 1 RepliesThis morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
View 6 RepliesStarted my 2010 Prius the other day and the traction control, brake light, abs light and a yellow Astrix light came on and wouldn't go off. The car drives and handles just fine, brakes feel normal. I have tried resetting the lights with a trick with a paper clip someone else posted, but it didn't work for me.
View 7 RepliesI just replaced the rear calipers on my wife's Taurus wagon (old ones were siexed) and bled the brakes as normal, but now the brake warning light is on and staying on. At first I thought it was the parking break, but it seems to work fine, (Tried setting the parking break while in motion and the car slowed quickly.) Its the first time I have changed the calipers on a car. When bleeding I did so until there were no more bubbles pulling about 8 oz from each side. The reservoir did get low but I don't think it emptied. Is it possible that I went too far and now have air in the master cylinder? How would I correct this?
View 4 RepliesMustang GT 2008 ... My ABS, Brake light and Traction control light stays on. It will go of sometimes when it is raining outside. Sometimes it looks like Christmas lights going on and off. I have taken it to the Ford shop but they can't figure it out.
View 5 RepliesMy 05 Chevy Malibu broke down at a stop light. A couple days earlier on my way home the warning light TC (traction control) came on and the gas pedal would not work so I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The problem went away. A couple days later the same thing happened to me on my way to class and then when I was leaving class but this time, the car would not crank back up. I had to get a tow to a mechanic who informed me that my engine was shot so I payed to have another used engine put in.
My car was returned to me Thursday afternoon and I had no problems until Friday afternoon when I was on my way home from work. I was braking to make a turn onto my road and the TC light came on along with a message of engine power reduced. I pulled over, turned it off, turned it back on, etc. Then when I was pulling into my driveway the gas pedal "turned off" again. I drove the car this morning to take the mechanic but they were closed. The car gave me no problems. I am a bit of a rough driver. I have a lead foot but I have been taking it easy since I got the car returned to me.
I have a 2008 with 81000 miles and new tires. On clean dry roads when I hit 60 mph the traction control warning light comes on and car will barely accelerate. Slow down a couple mph and car runs fine. What is wrong?
View 5 RepliesI have an 05 Malibu Maxx and while driving it the other day the ABS, traction control, and Brake lights came on. After doing some looking online several said it could be a speed sensor or wiring to sensor in one of the wheel hubs. Took it to have codes run and was told it was the back left, checked the wires then replaced the hub but still have same issue.
View 1 RepliesSo yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
Son was driving his car today and the roads were patchy ice leaving the addition. As he went around a turn the car started to slip and traction control kicked in. Right after that the trac off light came on and won't go off. Tried recycling the trac switch on and off to no avail. Tried to check the fuse but can't find where it is located.
View 8 RepliesSo out of nowhere my ABS and traction control light came on yesterday, then this morning it went away. When I got to work I pulled my e-brake and both lights came back on again wtf???? It's a 02 gti 337. Seems I am just having alot of luck to start off the week........
View 8 RepliesI have a 202 Jetta 1.8T GLS. Sometimes the traction control light comes on and the car jumps like it cant figure out what gear to go in. It gets very interesting to drive when it does this as I am sure you can imagine. Only other light that is on is the engine control light which is on all the time. Car seems to run fine until this happens. If I pull over and shut the car off it seems fine when I start it up again and continues to run fine and all of a sudden it happens again. I do have a code p2637 Torque Management feedback signal "A".
View 1 RepliesI've got some issues with my 2005 Toyata Prius (~150,000 miles). My wife was driving recently and the "Master Warning Light", the "Hybrid System Warning Light" and the yellow "Brake System Warning Light" all came on.
Some quick reading of the owners manual said we should take it to a dealer right away, but because it was a yellow, and not red, brake system warning light it seems ok to drive at least to a dealer. in regard to the yellow brake system light the manual said it could be that: "the regenerative brake system failed or that the hydraulic brake system failed".
Now, I have a cheap bluetooth OBD reader hooked up to the "torque" app on my phone and I thought I would try to see what error codes there were to learn more. But strangely, it did not read any fault codes. I've used this reader successfully on my 2001 Mitsubishi galant, but I'm not reading anything for the prius in this case. I'm not sure if there is legitimately no error code associate with the warning lights or if my app is just failing to read them for some reason.
2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
I have a 2011 F-150 Supercab 4x4 and the brake warning system is starting to drive me nuts. A couple of months ago the warning light came on along with a message to check brake system. I didn't find anything wrong, even flushed the hydraulic system. all seemed OK. Now the warning came back on, the message center will reset and the warning light will reset after shutting off the truck.
I can drive in city/town and the warning does not come on. But if I drive open road for about 30 miles with out using the brakes I get the warning again. I'll reset the message center and it'll clear, then about every 10 miles it chimes and shows to check brake system. It is strange that that I can drive hundred of miles in town using the brakes and not warning but get on the open road and not using the brakes I get the warning after 30 miles.