I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
View 12 RepliesSo on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
View 5 RepliesMy beloved standard, 2000 Ford Ranger, with an estimated 170,000 miles on it, has a problem with stalling that keeps getting worse. 2 different garages have failed to fix this problem three times. Many parts have been replaced/checked (like battery, plugs/wires) and the fuel and induction system was cleaned, fuel pressure, Compression and engine vacuum were all fine. The Check Engine Light goes on and off all the time and does not seem to relate to the problem. When the last garage hooked it up to the computer, nothing related to the problem was identified, they reported. The invoice/report from them is attached to this posting.
My problem began about 2 years ago. The truck would only stall out when I first began driving, after about a mile, and only if I was going downhill and was coming to a stop. Then it would putter and choke and ultimately stall out completely. After my 30 minute commute (near highway speeds) the truck would then be fine the rest of the day, with no problems stalling when I drove to a meeting or out to lunch. Since it began, it has gotten steadily worse. Now, pretty much whenever I decelerate downhill, and come to a halt, it will stall out unless I leave it in neutral and keep fluttering the gas peddle to give it more gas. It even happens when I'm not going downhill. It does not happen when I first start driving, but after a mile or so, it happens almost whenver I come to a stop. It sounds like the truck isn't getting enough gas, and if I don't keep pumping it with signifcantly more gas, it will stall.
Once stalled out, if I try to start it up again immediately, it is VERY hard to make it start. I have to keep turning it over before it finally sparks to life. It sounds pretty awful. otherwise it starts easily. IF, however, I let it stall out in a parking lot at a gas station, for example, and I go into the store and make a couple quick purchases, when I go out to start the truck, it fires right up with no problem. It only has a VERY hard time starting up when I'm in an intersection and try to re-start it immediately after it stalls out.
The two different garages that have failed to fix it were both able to easily replicate the problem, so that was not an issue. Amount of gas in the truck and temperature outside are both irrelevant.
We have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
View 3 RepliesMy oil pressure warning light has come on numerous times, only happened when I'm in a drive thru or at a stop sign, I switched from VW castrol oil to royal purple. The oil pressure warning comes on flashes 3 times and says check owners Manual. So I did and it says not to idle or run the car... The oil is fine. If this serious or a flaw in the electrical? It still drives the same and nothing has changed.
View 5 RepliesIt seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
I have a 2000 ford taurus V6. It sputters going up hills and at stop lights. I've serviced the motor and fixed two cracked vacuum hoses. No engine lights are on. Not sure what to do next....
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
View 6 RepliesI have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose the problem with my friend's 1994 crown Vic police interceptor. It dies at stop signs and then won't start back up till after waiting like 5-10 minutes. I asked him if his check engine light is on. He said yes, so I looked up how to retrieve the codes with a jumper wire as I have on older vehicles of my own. I found that information but can't locate the terminal. He said other symptoms are poor fuel economy and sluggish performance. My friend is so busy and pinched for cash he's been driving like this for over a year.
View 1 RepliesA couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
View 14 RepliesThis morning as I was driving to work, my truck hesitated as I tried to accelerate from a stop sign. I pressed the pedal and nothing, almost felt like it was going to stall. After about 3 seconds it started driving again and I had no further issues. It seems to only do this in the morning when it is cold. It has done this a couple of times before, but usually it recovers almost immediately. I had no CEL come on. 2007 F150.....
View 1 RepliesWell I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
2000 f150 4x4 5.4 7700 series. Problem I am having is taking off from a stop sign the engine feels like its not getting any fuel especially when out side temp gets above 90 or some higher, truck runs great other then that ,expected fuel mileage is good,no codes at all, doesn't miss or jump..
View 9 RepliesSo after a decent drive when I get to a redlight / stop sign / etc the truck will idle rough and shake but giving it a little bit of gas (1k RPM) seems to smooth it out however it doesn't throw any codes or the CEL. The truck is a 2008 F150 with the 5.4 and 90k miles.
I've searched quite a bit on this issue and I can't seem to find any real fixes other than swap parts out until something works and I've heard everything from filters to cam phasers or low oil pressure (I will be taking it to the mechanic to check the oil pressure)
so far I've:
Replaced the air and fuel filters
Changed the oil and oil filter (synthetic and OEM filter)
cleaned the MAF and cleaned the throttle body
also is 2008 equipped with an IAC Valve because I've read that it wasn't and I can't seem to find the IAC if it is.
The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
Have a 2004 F250 crew cab with the notorious 6.0L.. ive noticed what i believe is my tranny or maybe torque converter.? What happens is when i back out the drive way and the go into drive, i hear and feel a rough loud clink down under even when im at a stop sign.. I am a first time truck and diesel owner due to my field of work. Also it has a rought time starting in the mornings or anytime the truck is completely cold. Then after it warms up it behaves like it should. also ill get on the throttle and when i come to a stop, the idle is rough and slowly comes back to normal. ...???
View 10 Replies