Ford - Taurus :: 2000 - Gas Line Freeze Occasionally?
Dec 11, 2013
I am wondering why my 2000 Ford Taurus experiences gas line freeze on a handful of occasions each winter, when our other vehicles never have this problem during our winters. It doesn't get extremely cold here, I live 50 mi south of Indianapolis, IN. Last winter I had this problem on a few occasions, and basically just waited for the temp to warm up above freezing, and the car started. Now it has happened again this year, with temps down in the high teens/low 20's. Car is parked under a carport at night - my battery is cranking strong, my fuel pump is doing it's humming noise when the key is turned 'on', tank was filled a day or two before this happened, and our other vehicles are starting just fine. We do use Heet in our gas tanks during the winter, but I hadn't gotten around to adding any to my tank before this incident. I have lived in northern Wisconsin and the Chicago area, and never had this happen to my old beaters back in those days....what is the big problem with the Taurus?
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Mine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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I just bought this car from a estate has a hundred and ten thousand miles. I'm a postal the mechanic that works mail trucks and have not worked on any issues like this before.
After driving when I park it in the garage. it sounds like it's hot but there is no smell there is a sound every few seconds until something cools down. at least I think this is what the noise is. dual overhead cam engine.
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Recently my car has been sputtering a bit after I start it. It starts fine, but it sputters like it is going to run out of gas, but it's always at least 1/2 full.
To get it to stop I have had to pull over, turn it off, and restart it after a few minutes of running, then I haven't noticed anything again until the next morning when I start it again.
One time it turned off by itself when I stopped it and put it in park.
If at all possible we'd like to repair it ourselves, but we are not sure what could be wrong.
Our thoughts are: clogging/clogged fuel filter or spark plug issues. What could be causing this sputtering?
Again, it is not constant, as after restarting I continue to drive almost 60 miles to work, then back home in the evening with no issues yet. It has stopped once, but never while moving.
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2000 Ford Taurus left outside mirror with electrical adjustment has come loose. How does one get it tight?How much should this cost for parts? How difficult is the work? What tools does one need? What would be a reliable $$ wag be to have a dealer/independent shop do the work?
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t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
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2000 Ford Taurus w/ 233,000 miles. Yep, it's been good to me, and I've been good to it! However, the romance may be over now. There is a not so pleasing sound of rocks in a rock tumbler when the car is in idle, or in drive waiting at stop lights. Doesn't matter if I just started the vehicle or it's been running awhile. Noise is definitely coming from the engine and not at the rear of the vehicle (just had the muffler replaced - noise was present before and after). I'm also burning through oil. No tell tale puddles under the car though.
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So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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My 2000 ford Taurus which has 120,543 miles needs an outer tie rod end. I went to sts for an oil change and asked them about an alignment after I did the tie rod and they told me I need to change my struts. If I only change the front struts could I get an alignment or am I going to need to change the rear also? Also, i know I have to get new tires in the front because they are getting bad from the alignment being off so I would have to get tires also.
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It seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
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I have a 2000 ford taurus V6. It sputters going up hills and at stop lights. I've serviced the motor and fixed two cracked vacuum hoses. No engine lights are on. Not sure what to do next....
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I am replacing the high pressure power steering line on my 2000 Lightning and have a question about the fitting that goes into the steering gear. The new hose came with a black rubber o-ring that the instructions seem to indicate goes on the end of the steering gear fitting. The problem is that I did not see any o-ring on the original hose end or in the steering gear itself and the hose did not leak there (it was leaking on the pump fitting). Should there be an o-ring at the end of the fitting or does the fitting go on without it and uses a metal to metal seal? If replace this hose, did you use the o-ring or leave it out? Does it go on like this? Or like this?
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Fuel pump does not work in Cold Weather, but works fine in warm weather? Will replacing the pump solve this or is there a bad sensor somewhere else causing the problem?
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
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I have an old 2000 Ford Taurus that has been having some misfire issues. I replaced the wires and plugs about a year ago and hooray! it worked... until about a month ago when the check engine light came one. Misfire in cylinders 1 and 3... again. I ran some SeaFoam through and it did okay until this week, when the warning/flashing check engine light came back.
It is idling very hard (expected) and feels like it is trying to stall, even before the misfire came back (also to be expected??). So here is the question: is this a coil pack issue, or something more sinister (and expensive)?
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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Before I actually open the steering column and start looking. The problem is when I am going over bumps, once in a while my wipers will turn on on there own. Would this be the relay or the switch it self? Once in a while when I turn on the left turn signal, it freezes and I need to turn it off then back on and I have a small amount of smoke (burnt wire smell) that comes out the hazard button (its the only area it can), so I'm thinking it might be the switch itself. This is on a 2000 explorer xls.
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