Ford - Taurus :: 1997 - Headlights Stay On All The Time And Battery Getting Down
Mar 20, 2013
The headlights stay on all the time & wear the battery down. I've replaced the DRL module with two new modules & neither fixed the problem. I even examined the headlight switch (some burn up at the switch), but this headlight switch & wiring look new. I even took the headlight switch out & the headlights still stayed on. I made sure that the new modules were grounded to the chasis properly.
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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I have a Prius 2003 with 122k. My inverter water pump making noise it running but i do not see any coolant movement. Does this mean it a bad pump and need to be replace?
My door ajar warning light stay on all the time. I have check door sensors and the trunk lid sensor they all seem to be function. Where the wiring for the door ajar end up to the ECU maybe i can just short or by pass it? This maybe the cause of my 12V battery keep getting drain
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I have a 97 Grand AM SE 31.L with automatic console shift. I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder, and I did so, performing the Pass-Lock relearn successfully. However, the new lock cylinder won't stay in RUN all the time, and hence the engine dies. What keeps the key lock cylinder in the RUN position? There seems to be a fair amount of torque on the lock cylinder forcing it to the OFF position, and there is a slight detent in the lock cylinder which sometimes holds the cylinder in the RUN position, but not always. Is there a spring in the ignition switch which puts a force on the lock cylinder when in RUN, or what? (Obviously there is a spring somewhere to force the lock cylinder out of the START position to RUN....is this in the ignition switch?) If I know where the torque is coming from, maybe I can do something to lessen it.
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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I bought a 2005 Ford Taurus last month with a bad A/C clutch. I had a friend, who says he knows about such things, replace just the clutch. He says he lost no refrigerant, which should be right. The A/C blows cold OK regardless of the ambient temperature, but the new clutch clicks in and out. I was of the opinion that this was caused by a low charge.
My (not always right) friend thinks it's normal, due to the cooler weather. I THINK the compressor should run all the time, and the car's interior temp is regulated by the flapper doors. I have no way to capture the present charge and weigh in the exact amount needed. I have accurately weighed in an additional 8 ozs, with a good digital scale, and it still clicks in and out. I have readings of 125/25, but the outside temp is only 50F this morning.
What readings should I see at 50F? Do I still need more R134a?
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My 1997 Mercury Sable has been having a rough time starting lately. It will turn over, but 2 out of 3 starts will be labored. It will crank, but hesitate and finally give enough to start. When I start it at night and turn on the headlights they dim and flicker until the engine has been running a bit.
This car was originally my wife's, and she can't remember the last time it has had it's battery replaced.
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I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
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My son's 99 Taurus didn't want to start. At first thought it was a dead battery because of something left on, but jumping it didn't work. It starter was clicking like the solenoid was going out. Finally it did start and turned over fast like there wasn't a problem. I shut it off and restarted it again, no problem. Tried it a 3rd time and it wouldn't start again. Sometimes it clicked when I turned the key and sometimes it wouldn't do anything. Finally I had the wife turn on the headlights and turn the key while I stood in front to see if the headlights dimmed. The first time she tried it, the headlights went completely out. Not just dim, but completely off. The car started just fine after that and has been starting just fine ever since. Why this is?
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How are they connected?
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The headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
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We had to replace the gas tank on my wife's 1998 Taurus recently when it developed a hole from rust and started leaking. Since then, when we're refilling the tank and the pump automatically shuts off when it's full, we're always treated to a shower of gas coming out of the car. Sometimes it just runs down the side of the car, but other times it sprays out and would soak my legs if I didn't jump back quickly enough. It doesn't seem to matter how much gas we put in or how fast we fill it or even if we stop it early and fill slowly to the end. How to avoid this gas shower?
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The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
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2006 SuperCrew, 2WD 4.6L with 117K miles. Headlights will not turn off. totally drained battery. I replaced dead battery wit a fresh one. truck started right up. Headlights on. I turned switch to right and left, and 'clicks' sounded and seemed normal. Headlights on. Turned truck off and pushed button on key fob. Headlights still on. Disconnected new battery and trying to figure this out.
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This is my first post on this forum. I have a 2014 F350 standard fleet truck. The headlights are not day time running lights. The headlight switch is the basic off/parking light/on. The headlights come on as soon as you start the
truck. This just started happening about a month ago. When you shut off the truck the headlights stay on for ten minutes. I scanned the truck with a snap on modis. I got into the lighting module and the "command on" is on. The modis would not give me the option to turn it off. Short of taking the truck out of service for a day to go to the dealer. Is there any other fix I can do?
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Is there a mod that allows the headlights to stay off when the key is in the on position. 2001 F250....
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i have a 2002 f250 i drove it lat night parked it came home from work at about 3 and noticed my head lights were on and just headlights. I open the door and see that the switch is in the off position too. WEIRD HUH ? they wont go off. I tried to unplug the switch and nothing.
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Walk out to my 02 f250sd this afternoon after it sat for 9 hours while I was working... the lights are on... look inside and the light switch is in the off position... Open the door and it smells like burning wires. Car cranks without a problem but lights will not go off. Unplugged light switch and still lights are on. Open fuse box and all fuses look good none of the relays are hot. Reach around to back of fuse box and almost burn my fingers. Remove 4 screws that hold box in place and look around back. Unplug the wires going into fuse box and see that one is melted and it appears it is melted inside the fuse compartment itself. What might be going on inside this black box?
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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I came out from work this afternoon to a dead battery in my '99 Taurus. I saw nothing left turned on. I got a jump and went to Autozone two miles away. By that time there was enough charge to restart the car. My battery checked good, but they said the car had a 4-1/2 amp draw when it was shut off. The alternator still put out over 60 amps when reved up. That's good. Can a bad alternator on a modern car run the battery down? I know the old ones did sometimes, but I thought they "fixed" that aspect of them several years ago.
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