My 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
View 3 RepliesI had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
View 4 RepliesCar does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
View 12 RepliesI'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
View 6 RepliesMy 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
View 19 RepliesThe night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
View 8 RepliesThe A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
View 13 Replies I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
View 17 RepliesOkay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
View 9 RepliesThe radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?
My 2006 Hyundai Elantra has developed an intermittent starting short that seems to only occur in damp conditions. The intermittent starting short/fault seems to only occur in the mornings when the car has sat overnight outside. When I put the key in the ignition all the regular lights and bells will ding as normal, but when the key is then turned from "on" to "start" the entire electrical system cuts off. No interior lights, gauges, dash lights, nothing. However, if I pop the hood and then drop it, electrical power will be restored. I have been doing this for the past two weeks while I tried to determine the conditions of the fault. This morning however, this "fix" wouldn't restore electrical power but the short occurred again in a cycle and the car never did start, despite trying the hood pop/drop method 10 times.
I had it towed to a shop this morning. When the car and I arrived, it started normally without issue. (of course!) I'm wondering if riding on the back of a tow truck dried out something or if that was immaterial. The person who looked at my car noticed a loose negative battery pole attachment and replaced the negative battery clamp. (His advice was to start small before needlessly pulling things off trying to find the fault.)
So, what could cause this or what course of action to pursue? The car has 94,000 miles and this is the first real issue it has had.
I have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
View 2 RepliesGremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
When damp or foggy, my 1990 Buick Century 3.3 will either not start or start and idle rough. Spraying WD-40 on coil packs and wires work. I tried click and clack's method of misting water on the 3 coil packs and wires when idling, and got arching on middle coil, # 2 wire to top of coil pack. Do I need to replace that coil, or just the spark plug wires? The slight mist of water on that middle coil stalled the engine, and it would restart after WD- 40 was sprayed on the coils/ wires.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
View 3 RepliesMy 1995 Honda civic dx jumped time and won't even crank and have no clue what I got to do to fix it?
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