My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
View 19 RepliesI'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
View 6 RepliesThe night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
View 8 RepliesMy 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
View 3 RepliesThe A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
View 13 Replies I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
View 17 RepliesMy truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
I have a 95 stang that I just had refilled with Freon and oil at Ice Cold Air. The compressor turns on then cuts off as if its low on Freon but its not. Last night the ac started blowing cold and was this morning then started back on the compressor turning on then off. I know it has Freon in it and is full. Could it be that the orifice tube is clogged or maybe even the drier? is this something that I could take off and try to clean out?
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
View 2 Replieswe have a 1995 chevy astrovan. Some days it runs just fine and then others it cuts out repeatedly when we slow down or brake. It?s been to the mechanic a million times and he can?t find the problem?
View 8 RepliesMy 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
View 6 Repliesmy 1995 buick lasbre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it as soon as i turn and drive itcuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive ok
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 1995 Buick regal gran sport with only 64,000 miles. It has been cutting of for 2 years now. It usually cuts off when we slow down. The RPM's will suddenly drop to zero. We have taken it to 3 different mechanics over the past 2 years and have put in thousands of dollars to fix it (more that it is worth). We always just throw it in neutral and it start back up and keep driving. We were sick of paying to get it NOT fixed so we decided throwing it in neutral is ok. Well now some days it won't start. It turns over but won't fire. Some days it will start. We took it in and got it "fixed" again, but it is still doing the same thing (some days it starts, some not). It still also has the problem of cutting off while we are driving too.
View 7 RepliesMy 1995 buick lasabre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it and barley drive or turn it cuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive...
View 1 RepliesThis morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
View 5 RepliesMy Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
View 9 RepliesThe radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?