Ford - Taurus :: 1995 - Preparing To Not Use Car For Few Months
May 1, 2011
I'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
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For the last 2 years 1995 ranger 2.3 will run great but every 1-3 months will just stall. Will than try to start it for a couple of minutes and in 1-8 minutes will start back up again as if nothing was wrong and then be fine for another week, month, 2 months etc. It has never happened at first start up in the morning but at times will stall 2 minutes after start (at traffic light of course). At times will turn off to run into store, come outside, no start, try for couple of minutes and then starts up fine. Changed out fuel pump, etc, etc. Biggest problem is no codes and, of course, when mechanic looks at it nothing is wrong.
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My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
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The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
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My 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
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The A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
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I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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The radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?
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I'm going out of town by bus and won't be returning until October. I'm concerned about letting my 2002 Honda CR-V sit for that long period of time without being driven and in the weather. I was told I need to fill my gas tank up so it won't rot, change the oil, don't put it on jack stands since it's bad for the suspension, and maybe buy a car cover. Is there anything else I need to do?
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Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
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So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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So the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
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I recently parked my f-350 dually on a 15degree slope during a rainy period about 2 months ago. I went in recently to start it and it would'nt start. I replaced the two batteries in my attempt. I turn on the key in the on position, wait for the "Wait for Start" light to turn off, then it cranks really fast , then slows down and it won't start. Tried to take off the fuel filter but is there a special tool to take the cover off. It started real fine prior to this. Also I put in 5 gallons of diesel .
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I know that I've seen some threads about the battery not surviving a long period without using the car Just got back from 2 months away, and everything started up just fine
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My left backup light just went out on my '10 Prius after 4 months.
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My 2000 GTI VR6 has been sitting around for a while (since Oct/Nov 2013). Now the car wont turn on. Dash lights up, and no clicking noise of dead battery (actually just put in a new battery). Makes those noises when turning on, but engine never gets going.
What should I check? Battery terminals seem fine. Coilpack? Corroded terminals somewhere else?
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I have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
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