Ford - Taurus :: 1995 - Grinding Sound When Accelerating
Jul 24, 2016
The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
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My car just started making a grinding noise when accelerating. It does not make it while maintaining a constant speed or revving the engine in neutral. I never had this problem before and I am at a loss to explain it. Car is 1995 Camry for what that is worth.
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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2005 Dodge SRT-10 Quad Cab.... There is a strange noise, or perhaps I should say noises that sound most of the time like a grating/grinding sound. Occasionally it has less of that mechanical sound, and more of..well, like blowing air over your tongue with a lot of saliva in the way (like a cat purring with a hairball in its mouth??). Anyway, the ONLY constant I have found is that it only happens when I am accelerating (but not every time I accelerate). Most often (again there have been exceptions) it happens between 1500 & 2500 RPMs...typically just before the transmission would be inclined to shift to a higher gear - if it does shift into the higher gear, the noise stops.
Also, the moment I take my foot off of the gas pedal, the sound stops. About a third of the time, I can feel a slight vibration via my feet when the noise is stronger sounding. On two occasions (this is over a period of approximately 1 year) The sound was extremely harsh, and the truck was shaking.When I took it in the first time they told me it was the catalytic converter, and replaced it. When that didn't fix the problem, they decided it must be the other catalytic converter (yes it has two). That didn't fix the problem either.Ordinarily, rather than simply have them replace half the parts in the truck I would wait until something completely failed, thus making the culprit obvious. However, I am moving soon... and I don't want to be driving half way across the country pulling a large trailer and have the drive shaft, or transmission, or whatever - fall out.
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I'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
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My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
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My 2002 Ford Taurus SES 3.0L 4v 6-cyl is sort of lurching, especially when I'm accelerating around 30-35 mph and my rpms are at 1000-1500. My mechanic just replaced a cracked coil pack, which seemed to work a little but has not eliminated the problem. The engine is also surging when I'm parked with my foot on the brake. What might be going on?
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My 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
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The A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
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I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 103,000 miles. It shudders when I accelerate; sometimes one, two or three shakes. This usually occurs around 35-40 mph while I am going uphill (never while going downhill). I always use overdrive, but I tried it in drive and also felt it then.
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i have an 03 ford taurus. recently i noticed a grinding sound when braking. My first thought was that i needed new brakes. I want to the mechanic, they did a courtesy inspection and found nothing wrong with them! the rotors are smooth with no grooves, the pads look almost brand new! the mechanic seemed baffled. when i bought the car the brakes that are on now. it's just recently that i have noticed the grinding sound. The mechanic ruled out other possible problems such as bad bearings and shocks...etc.. What could be the problem?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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The radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?
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Ford Taurus 99 3.0 dohc. 122000 miles. No engine light.
When driving at 65 mph only while accelerating there is a jerk/buck almost like it tries to go faster but it gets stopped violently. I Checked spark plugs, wires, etc. The plugs were twice the gap so I just replaced them with wires and coil pack since they were original.
Still have the problem...and now I am testing several things. Tps seems OK. Voltage does not jump but it doesn't go higher than 4 volts even if its rated for almost five. I checked on a cheap scan tool voltage for o2 sensors. Both upstream seem to be normal. Down stream seem low and a bit jumpier than I would expect. And I am hoping its not the cat.
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Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
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I have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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