My 2007 Ford Focus runs in high rpm. When I put the car in park it sounds like someone is slightly holding gas pedal down. I have to use brake when on road more frequently. Vehicle will run over 25 miles per hour without touching gas pedal.
View 2 RepliesThe rear suspension on my 2013 F Sport AWD with 27,000 miles has started to squeak slightly. It doesn't do it all the time but is audible from within the car even with the stereo at low volume. When the road is smooth it's quiet but it'll squeak on even slightly uneven pavement.
Of course the F Sport has air suspension. I haven't experimented with the different ride settings or height adjustment yet but it is audible in Normal mode.
Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
View 14 RepliesI have noticed that I have to hold my gear selector towards park to get the reverse lights to come on. Also some times I have to hold it towards park to get it to start. I changed my tranny in Dec 2009 and occasionally it would do this while starting, just noticed the reverse lights about a week ago. Tried moving the cable where it attaches to the tranny a couple of serrations each direction. No luck. Is there another place I can make an adjustment?
View 14 RepliesWhen started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
View 3 RepliesI'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
View 5 RepliesSo i think I have a bad EGR valve cause I've eliminated o2 sensors, MAF, Spark plugs, coils, vac leaks, Fuel filter, and Fuel injectors. Truck throws P0172 and p0175 code, surges in RPM's at 10 MPH when hold steady on gas pedal, exhaust makes a popping sound like popping popcorn. I reset the PCM and unhooked the MAF and it ran a little better but still get the other symptoms.
View 2 RepliesI am having a problem with my rear suspension. The indicator lights on the dash (for the rear suspension control) are working correctly as are the controls on the center console, however the rear of my vehicle is stuck in a high position.
View 14 RepliesThere a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
View 9 Replies2006 Camry. Last winter, I ran into a pile of snow and got stuck. I accidentally switched gears from R and D without going to neutral and this is when the issue started. When I switch to Park, it won't hold anymore, it rolls (when uphill); I have to use the handbrake all the time. By the way, I have no issue starting the car, when it is in Park position.
View 10 RepliesI don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
View 8 RepliesSo, before I noticed a problem, all I had to do was a slight touch to the brake pedal, and the brake lights would come on. Now, they MAY just quickly flash and won't come on unless I really push hard on the pedal, such as at a complete stop.
I've noticed some issues with trying to lock-in 4W-LOW now too, and I know the brake pedal has to be pushed to engage 4W-LOW. Never had problems before now. 1999 F250 Superduty ...
2014 F150 3.5 Ecoboost...
I recently got my oil changed at the dealership and yesterday when I did my periodic oil check, I noticed that the oil level is slightly higher than the "high" mark on the dipstick. Its about 4mm above the high line, maybe 5mm at most. I do not smell gas in the oil, and given that its been about a month since the change, I simply think that slightly too much oil was added.
My question is will a slight overfill like that affect this engine? I'm particularly worried about "frothing" of the oil by the crankshaft. I don't think that oil level is nowhere near to be "pushed" by pistons and affect my seals. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I drive on very flat terrain. So the question to those that have knowledge on how much clearance there is between the crankshaft and oil level in that engine is, do I leave as is or go back to the dealer to adjust. (Reason I ask is because I'm particularly busy with a project at work, and if I don't have to burn time to correct this I would rather not given my busy schedule.)
My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
The car starts if I press the gas pedal slightly. It falters a little and idles a little rough, fuel can be smelled in the exhaust after the startup (not afterwards). Once the car starts it drives just fine. The guy who sold me the car informed me that he ran the car to empty tank two days ago and had to fetch 2 gallons in a can to start it again, that is when the problem started.
View 11 RepliesI'm trying to troubleshoot an odd issue.
When the lever is in low beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
When the lever is forward in high beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
But if I hold the lever back in "fash the high beam" mode the high beams turn on. This got me home last night, but I don't know where to start looking for the issue?
Faulty relay? Faulty switch? Something else?
(2004 Santa Fe)
The radiator fan on my '11 Escape only runs on high. When the car is cold, the radiator fan does not come on. But as it warms up, the fan does seem to come on at the right time. But when it does, it is pretty loud and runs very fast. I assume it's running on high, because I don't recall whether or not there is a low. Both fans appear to be running, so I'm thinking both fan relays are good. Perhaps the main relay (30C) has gone bad?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
1994 f150 with 4.9L I6; 180k mi.
Parked vehicle last night after using it uneventfully for work the day before. Upon leaving the house at 11:30 AM, I noticed that I'd picked up a new mechanical noise. Nothing major; actually wasn't sure I heard anything at all.
As I drove to the store, I noticed it was idling slightly unsteady...much less so than a missing cylinder. I resolved to check the high-tension connectors when I got home for security. I glanced down at the gauges to check and see if my oil pressure was good; I then noticed coolant temp reading "high normal."
When I got out, I noticed a small pool of coolant forming. I looked at where the puddle was forming...the radiator hose had come off! (Actually separate from the radiator connector, as one might do if draining fluid without using the petcock.) I popped the hood: no unusual smells. Nothing seemed abnormally hot. Placing a finger against the head was uncomfortable, but not painful. Spit expectorated upon the head did not sizzle.
I then called my wife, explaining the situation, and walked back home 2 miles. We then took the spare car, bought antifreeze, and added it about an hour post-shutdown. Where the car was parked seemed wetter than the light drizzle allowed; daubing a finger in it and tasting gave a slight sweet taste.
I tend to check my fluid every so often (not every day, though) and coolant was verified as "full" as recently as 100 miles ago. (I don't make a habit of crawling underneath, though, so I couldn't tell you if hose had been slowly backing off or not.)
As to cause: is it plausible that this could happen without foul play? There have been a few vandalism incidents in the neighborhood; it's also possible that I [peeved] off a neighbor recently. I'm not about to go any further than fixing, though, unless there's really no other plausible explanation.
As to the mechanical questions: How much damage was done? Did I "catch it" in time? What is suggested as far as repairs/maintenance? (I was planning on doing a compression test, and keeping a close eye on fluid levels over the next 1,000 miles or so.) Engine sounds completely normal.