i have a 1996 ford tausue lx about 150000 miles...when i starts the car up and i let it warm up some before i drive it..when i put it in drive the car jerks hard i did check transmission fluid and it was good.what could cause this..i did open hood up and i did see motor move back some in i put it in drive..
View 3 RepliesA while ago, I acquired a 1991 Mazda 626 automatic (currently 105,000 miles) that now has what appear to be the beginning of transmission issues. It hard shifts from 1st to 2nd - the shift jerks really hard when the car is cold but once I've driven it for 15-20 minutes the hard shift almost disappears completely and stays that way as long as the car is warm - except for stop and go traffic (Seattle traffic) than the hard shift comes back no matter how long I've been driving. The only other shifting issue I notice is on the hills where it seems to shift more frequently than I might expect it too.
Other than what I've described this car is in perfect condition inside and out, as well as engine-wise. My question is on transmissions and whether I should get a rebuilt one. I've taken it to multiple transmission shops and almost all have told me two things 1) I need a new transmission and 2) that the issue is a hard component problem and I could most likely drive this car for months or years without having to replace the transmission - if I want to put up with the rough shifts. They recommended just driving it until the transmission goes out and then replacing it.
1996 Ford F450 1 ton diesel engine truck with approximately 100,000 miles has been leaking transmission fluid. Took it to mechanic who replaced the seal and converter. When idling, you can see it drip, drip, drip, etc. Now it is leaking more than before I had it worked on.
View 2 Repliesi have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Escort with a 1.9 liter engine. I was checking my automatic transmission fluid and the dip stick shows 20 C and 65 C on the dipstick. How do I know if my fluid level is correct? Where should the mark be on level surface, in park with engine running.
View 6 RepliesSo I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesMy 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
View 4 RepliesDealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
View 2 RepliesI have a leak on my Lexus, the car raises up normal my suspension work good but I hear the air leaking and the ride feels like crap.
Is there anywhere where I can get a diagram for the air ride system to see where all the air hoses go through.
I went under the car and I have a rough area where it is but if I could get a diagram it would be easier for me to see the hose I'm talking about and if possible would need part numbers along with the list.
My 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
View 2 RepliesMy 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
My trusty 1994 Ford F150 is starting to show her age, I think. I'm noticing a few issues:
1 - most concerning to me is she jerks pretty hard when shifting through the first few gears during relatively warm weather. The cold snap has abated the issue for now. Had the transmission fluid checked - mechanic said it's fine.
2 - This is a fun electrical issue. I'm driving down the highway when suddenly the cruise control shuts off, as does the speedometer and the digital odometer. The Tach still works, as do the rest of the gauges. Maybe 10 - 15 minutes later, they all come back on. It's done this a couple times.
3# - Really annoying but very minor; when I push down on the foot feed, there's a bit of a squeak in the engine. I'm guessing it's a tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt, but why it would only happen when I give it some gas?
2001 F-350 w/powerstroke. Tranny is the automatic w/overdrive. right at 170K miles and it has not been serviced since I've owned it (about 10 years).
Lately it is jerking when shifting, especially noticeable when I'm pulling my 5er (10K lbs). Almost a "clunk". No warning lights or OD flashing. I live at 6000 feet and play at over 9K so mountain driving is routine. Fluid is up to right spot on the dip-stick.
Bought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
View 1 Replies5.8L C6 .... I can't get a good reading on my transmission fluid level. When the truck is cold the level is well above (2") the checkered area.
When the truck is hot, I can't read the dipstick. It either has a little bit of oil well above the checkered area, or there isn't enough in the transmission to register.
How to get an accurate reading?
Last week my 2011 KR Diesel with 85k on it stopped downshifting correctly. Basically when the transmission is cold (<150 degrees on the digital gauge for transmission fluid) it jerks everytime it shifts down from 4->3->2->1. Especially 3->2 and 2->1. I have never seen anything like this before. It's almost if you are getting reared ended when it shifts.
If I let it warm up it eventually goes away until it cools down again. I did take into the dealer and they said that a) there is definitely something wrong with the torque converter and b) I might actually need a new transmission which is anywhere between 4-7k depending on if its a reman or new.
This truck is barely broken in and I at this point have not towed a single thing with it. I had thought the transmission was covered up to 100k but it looks like it's only covered to 60 or 75k (I forgot which).
I've opened up a case with Ford but they kicked it back to the dealer. The dealer service manager has been really NICE and is definitely on my side that this SHOULD HAVE NEVER HAPPENED at this mileage. They also don't know how to fix it without pulling apart everything which is a lot of labor.
This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
View 2 RepliesI have a '96 explorer, v-8 5.0 ....
My windshield washer fluid has stopped coming out of the cleaning nozzles on the rear, driver's and passenger sides. I can hear the pump pumping and have disconnected the hose from the driver's side and ran the windshield cleaner system. Cleaning fluid came out of the hose easily. Then the hose for the rear was tested. Fluid came out of the hose.
The reservoir was emptied and checked to see if there was dirt that might be clogging the intake. It was clean. The nozzles where the cleaning fluid comes out were cleaned with a small wire from both ends. Also a bottle of compressed air was used and air was felt coming through easily. I am thinking the pump might have lost enough pressure that no fluid can be pushed hard enough to come through the very end before it gets sprayed on the windshield. What might be wrong?
1984 f150 with a new master cylinder, new brake booster, and new fluid. I did use dot 4 fluid (as opposed to dot 3) and bled out the system. This was about 9-10 months ago.
Just recently I noticed my brake pedal was going further down before I stopped; but I stopped. Since I switch between my car and truck a lot I thought this may have just been my imagination. What finally clued me in was when I couldn't stop as easily that something was obviously wrong.
Checked the master cylinder and the front reservoir was obviously empty. I couldn't find an obvious leak so took it to a shop. The added more fluid, bled the brakes and said its fine. They couldn't find a leak either.
Sooooo, any thoughts as to where my front brake fluid went? I'm assuming they took the wheels off and looked at the calipers too but I'm not sure I'll find out when I go pick it up in an hour. Could the dot 4 fluid have something to do with it? The brake lines, mast cyl, booster, proportioning valve and calipers are all bone dry. No obvious fluid leaks. Soooo now what.
2008 Ford F350 5.0 with automatic transmission, extended cab, 2 wheel drive. While on the highway and in cruise control, and only when climbing a small incline, the transmission jerks and shutters. Feels like transmission starts to downshift, but then doesn't, back & forth. If climbing a much larger hill, the transmission downshifts just fine. Transmission shifts just fine while NOT in cruise control. Was thinking electronic module or sensor. Any specific information on the exact electronic part that may be faulty?
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