Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
View 2 RepliesFord Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
View 4 RepliesI have an '03 Ford Explorer (V8) and recently had a rebuilt engine installed (at 135,000 miles). As soon as I got the car back, the engine whined and it's getting louder. The whine starts immediately but it louder when the accelerator is pressed. The sound reminds me of a car with bad power steering, but it's so much louder and doesn't correlate to turning the wheel, but pressing the gas pedal.
View 6 Replies2006, 112k mi. there's been a whine-like noise that only happens when the accelerator is pressed ( and mostly noticed at highway speeds) and stops immediately when accelerator is released..
View 10 RepliesWe've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..
View 1 RepliesDriving our 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan which we love. We have 118,000 miles on the odometer now and a dent or two but otherwise it's in great shape. About 2 years ago, we started to notice a high-pitched "whining" noise on our way from Michigan's Upper Peninsula to Florida. We were driving in the fall in the lovely Smoky Mountains. The weather was hot, the air conditioning on and the van working hard to climb the mountains. We stopped for gas, and then as we started driving again noticed this whining noise when pressing on the accelerator.
The noise did not stop until the next morning when the car was completely cool, but started again when it heated up. This whining continues to happen every time the car is driven long distances/gets very warm. Our Michigan mechanic thought it was the alternator and replaced the alternator and coolant tube in 8/2012 but that did not work. Our mechanic flushed the transmission and replaced the fluid in 5/2013 but that did not work. Neither of them could tell us what causes this noise. Should we just continue to drive it this way or go to another shop?
I am new and just picked up a used 2008 Passat yesterday. It has 42k miles and what I had thought in perfect condition. I wanted to see what was going on before I took it into the dealership to get repaired. When driving I hear a constant whine / (like water is on in a house) type noise. Its noticeable all the time except when the brake is fully applied. It comes back once the brake is depressed and in park. I thought at first maybe it was just a brake pad rubbing but the constant noise in Park confirms its something else.
View 2 RepliesThere's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
View 6 RepliesI have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
View 2 RepliesOn a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
View 5 RepliesIf I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
My son was driving our 02 Santa fe 2.7 V6 Auto down to plymouth, half way down the engine gave a clinking sound (Rev Dependent). When he was doing 60MPH and pressed accelerator, no power. Stopped at road side couldn't restart. (no warning lights) RAC turned up and thought it was the cam belt and said engine right off. Got car towed home and just started to strip down for cam belt check. Belt seems OK. Timing marks line up.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 RepliesWell i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
2003 Elantra GT 5-speed:
In driveway with constant pressure on accelerator (stick wedged between pedal and seat) a static rpm can be maintained for only a short time(< 2 min) time before rpm drops rapidly to idle rpm. Accelerator pedal never moves (still depressed to high rpm position) but engine is just idling away.
Note: New fuel filter and fuel pump recently installed as engine intermittently chugged/hesitated (acted like out of fuel for a fraction of a sec) especially with warmer air temperatures. Still does this but now unable to maintain driving rpm for any length of time.
I have a 2003 Toyota Rav 4 Sport with 160,000 miles. I take good care of it, as it does me. All of a sudden, while driving on CA freeway, it seemed to slip out of gear into neutral--no power when accelerator pressed to the floor. The power came back quickly, but this happened again the next day, with no apparent cause. I took it to my mechanic and, as I drove the surface streets, there was a knocking sound.
My mechanic said the initial problem was a transmission issue and referred me to another mechanic. And, he said the knocking may be a thrown rod(?). The second mechanic confirmed the first guy's transmission assessment (he's a transmission specialist, so of course, he'd see a transmission issue) and said he'd need to fix that before addressing the knocking. And, he said to fix the transmission (including replacing the computer that drives the tranny).
02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
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