Ford - Shifters - Fiesta :: Is Ok To Shift Into Neutral At Stops?
Jun 5, 2015
This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
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On my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
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My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
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My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
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I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
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My 1997 3500 shifts down normally through all gears but when I put it into park the lever on the trans stops at neutral I can then click the lever forward to rev.and park.
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I have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
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My truck is making this chattering when I shift down or just sitting there in neutral it goes away when I press the clutch or if I push the shifter in the spot before the gear I was told it was a throw out baring but I'm not sure I herd this transmission will start to chatter before it goes out so what to do?
1999 f150 4.6 4x4 Romeo 5speed single cab...
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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Daughters explorer sport trac, needed a neutral safety switch and a fuse ( no reverse lights),, I have replaced both but now the shifter doesn't line up right.
P is now reverse, and cant get all the way over to 1 with out holding it...
the two marks in the switch line up for neutral.... and switch is keyed to shaft...
how do i now re align this so shift indicator and transmission are on the same page again??
I am guessing move tranny arm all the way to the rear of the truck position and put shifter in P....then put cable back on arm.... but doesn't seem to work ....
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
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I have 2013 ford fiesta and the fan wasn't turning on!? It sounded like it wanted to and this is the first time I'm having problems with it. It was -23 out yesterday so that could b it but it's above 0 now and still not turning on?
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I have a 1989 F-250 with 90,000 miles. Fixed steering wheel. When I first start up all lights in and out, radio, heater, wipers, etc. work. When I shift into park everything stops. Dash gauges do work always. Orange "Rear Antilock" warning light is on. If I shutdown, and restart nothing works. So, everything works on initial startup, but not on later startups. No problem restarting and a good charge is showing. If I start it the next morning, all is well until I put it into gear.
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I have 1500m on my 6m and all of a sudden it feels like it take more effort to move the shifter from neutral to hear and vice versa. Specially first gear but the others as well.
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Owned care for just 1 year. Always seemed to "search" for 2nd gear, now "stammers" and "stutters" into 2nd and starting to do same into 3rd. Dealer says that care "needs to get to know me and how I drive." I say: it must know me by now, so assume it just doesn't like me? Have heard horror stories about being abandoned, etc. My question: do I continue to try to get dealer to fix? or just trade car.
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta and yesterday morning I went to start it and the check engine light came on. When I tried to shift into reverse, the gear lever moved but the gear wouldn't engage. None of the other gears worked either. I turned the car off and back on again, and it was fine (the check engine stayed on, though). I have to repeat this process every time I start the car, and this afternoon it took three tries. This a low-mileage car: I bought it brand new a little over 4 years ago, and it's barely over 20,000 miles. I have an appointment scheduled with the dealership, but is this something that's going to cost me a lot of money or is it just a computer issue? One other detail: it was very very cold the night before the issue started (about -10 degrees).
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We love our 04 Prius (190K, still original brakes, etc.). Today we encountered a strange problem. My wife was driving and pulled into a parking lot. She could not turn the car off , remove the box key, or shift out of neutral. No warning lights.
After about 10 min. the car would drive again. We've now cycled about 5 times (i.e. driven somewhere) and it seems OK. We replaced the 12V battery a couple of years ago and haven't seen any problems in that area.
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My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
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1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta with a little over 90k
Last week I had just gotten gas, i was about to turn out of the gas station when I stepped on the gas the car moved forward slightly before the oil light popped on and the engine seemingly shut off. I put the car in park, turn the engine off and started it up. It turned on just fine and drove like normal as I headed home, first thing the next morning I went to get my oil changed as I was overdue. I was definitely low and my oil(5w30) was changed.
The problem did not repeat itself until 4 days later while out running errands. It happened again twice today...once while again turning out of a parking lot and also while about to turn at a light.
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