Ford - Ranger - Belts :: Buckle Got Stuck Into The Latch In Reverse
Nov 27, 2013
I have a 97 Ford Ranger and the belt buckle got inserted into the latch in reverse. Now, I can't get it out. I can depress the release button, but it won't come out. I've tried rocking the buckle, but that doesn't work. I've tried inserting a flat piece of metal into the latch to release it, but I can't get it in there far enough.
What I'm looking for is an easy "trick" to get this thing to release. The buckle and latch look like this: [URL] .........
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My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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1985 ranger 2.3L TK5 tranny. Shifter was really loose and the tranny finally got stuck in reverse. I have opened up the bottom cover, but am not sure where to move the shift forks to get it back to neutral. I bought a new shifter, but I need to get the tranny back to neutral before I can install it.
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I have removed the panel cover; cables are out - door is still stuck! Is there a way to release the latch? It is the driver side back door - 2001 Lariat.
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Backed up into a bush and it seems it was a little bit more stout than expected. There was a large branch that pushed my tailgate latch so far up now it's stuck. If you look at the pics below, there's a tab on the right hand side that was over extended and now stuck/holding the handle up. I'm a little reluctant to just try hitting it as hard as i can out of fear that I'll snap something.
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Trunk latch is stuck open.
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A problem that has raised on my Elantra GT is in the hatchback, the trunk handle gets stuck in or out so when I try to open the trunk it wont, but if I push the handle in first and then open it then it opens, also I have to lock and open the car with the alarm remote several times before it opens. Now I know that the handle is bad and need to change it, the car is a 2002 and this happened on 2004 I told the dealer and refused to do anything about it unless paid for everything, They wanted like 300 to change a handle, i did not do it, I will buy a handle and do it my self, I just wanted to know if other people had run to this problem and if its hard to change the handle, the dealer said they needed to take the whole hatch apart, but as far as I can see its only 2 screws and the handle should come out. This is been a long time coming.
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A thin blanket is caught in the lock of the rear hatch door. I have removed the cover on the utility box inside the car, and moved the lever but that did not work. I can hear the mechanism working when pressing the unlock but the door does not release. I tried pulling the blanket but it does not budge. I don't want to cut the blanket away because I could not reach what is stuck in the mechanism.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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I did read all of the topics in the FAQ and I tried the tricks to reset the automatic trunk, yet still no luck. I notice the latch is stuck in the down postion -- could that be part of my problem? I noticed some water under the spare therefore I'm eager to get this fixed asap.
I also made a road trip on the freeway yesterday in some very nice weather and the AC wasn't cold -- I had it all the way on "Low". I'll have the dealer check that out also. Apparently the previous owner in Vegas used up all of the cars cold air.
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I have been having trouble trying to release the lever under the hood on my 2009 Jetta. the interior lever seems to be working but when I attempt to depress the hood lever it won't budge! I like to check my oil on a regular basis and I have never had this challenge before. I'm also worried that if I am able to release it that I will not be able to secure it afterwards, rendering my vehicle inoperable. I am strongly considering just taking it for an oil change and "springing" the dilemma on the garage.
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The passenger door of my golf mk4 is stuck after I read through the forums it seems that the little latch inside the handle has been super glued maybe the previous owner had problems with the distance of it. Any way I can remove the super glue? I will provide a picture to illustrate. it can neither open inside or outside. [IMG][/IMG]......
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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My truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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, my trucks heat selector lever, that controls the temperature in my truck, is stuck in the cold setting. by stuck I mean, I can try to move it, but it wont budge more than about 1/16" and no more. its really frustrating because of the cold weather here, and I want to have SOME heat in my truck without a bonfire to get it.
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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My buddy has 2005 Ford Ranger, 4.0L V6, manual with 4WD. It cranks fine, shifts through gears, but it will not move. We're thinking something to do with the parking brake, but I don't have much knowledge about brake systems. A cursory inspection showed a cable without much rust, some rust on the rear drum brakes, and around the mounting where the brake cable runs into the brake drum. I can pull downward on the cable about three inches, so it doesn't seem like the cable is pulled too taut. The pressure on the brake pedal feels about normal.
(edit: something sort of important I forgot to mention, which is why I don't think it's the transmission. In neutral, we cannot push the truck. When pushing from the rear, it will rock back and forth a few inches. When pushing from the front, the truck will not budge at all with two guys pushing on it.)
What sorts of tests can we do to pin down where the problem lies? If it is the parking brake, how can we loosen it up enough to get the truck moving to a shop (or at least to the garage where we can get to the brake shoes)?
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I have a 1983 ranger with a YFA. I recently took it apart and in the process of the rebuild I noticed the metal gasket was still in the spot where the needle pin goes. It has adhered to the carb. Any way to get it un-stuck? Also, there is a module, and the gasket comes in the rebuild kit so I know it belongs, the part number begins with 2I3 but the rest came off with the dirt. What is it for and would it hurt anything if it wasn't plugged in? It hasn't been since I bought it.
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