Ford - Ranger :: Running Loudly - Oil Pressure Gauge In Red Then Normal
Feb 27, 2011
Twice in the last year my 1999 Ranger (@138,000 miles) has started running very loudly: I checked dash and see oil pressure gauge says no oil pressure. First time this happened, I pulled over, had it towed. At garage they start it up: gauge normal, they check oil says its OK. I take it to the dealership, they replace sending unit, but can't explain why it was running loudly. Today same thing happens: I checked oil pressure gauge, it's OK. After an hour, starts running loudly, gauge in red. Park car for 15 - 20 minutes, start it up: all is well: gauge OK, running quietly. This is amy 'spare' car, so it only gets driven 1 -2 times per month, short distances.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
My friend has an 08 4.6. He has replaced the thermostat with 3 different ones all with different temps, still nothing. Temp gauge reads normal but after driving it for a bit he can take off the radiator cap while it's running and not get sprayed in the face with coolant, almost like there is no pressure in the system.
View 6 Replies
My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
View 1 Replies
Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
View 19 Replies
I have a 97 Splash with the 3.0, oil pressure goes up to about the middle of the gauge after startup, however, it stays there whatever I do, warm/cold, idle/5500 rpm. Is it supposed to be like that?
View 4 Replies
My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
View 2 Replies
I have an 87 Ranger and the oil pressure gauge is slow to respond changes in pressure. Is this the way the gauge is designed to work or do I have a bad sending unit?
View 4 Replies
OK so 2006 f550 6.0
If I want to monitor fuel pressure with a gauge in cab while running all the time... (not just testing) can I purchase one of the secondary fuel filter caps that have a port in the top and connect the sensor to this to run or is there a better way? (Or is that not going to work)
Cap I am talking about is something like this
[URL]
(I know this is a combo kit but they do sell the fuel only) But since it has a threaded port in the top I could connect the fuel pressure sensor to that and go from there correct? Would that give accurate readings?
View 4 Replies
So I have an 88 k1500 with the 350 that the previous owner removed and rebuilt... Didn't hook a lot of stuff back up etc... It's like a puzzle. It runs good for the most part but the oil pressure gauge in the cab pegs out when it's running. I've heard 1989 and older 350 engines have 2 oil pressure switches/sending units. I know about the one up by the distributor. But can't seem to locate the other one. Also what does the one by the distributor control? And what does the other one control?
View 1 Replies
I have noticed that my temperature gauge is indicating that usually my truck is running very cool. It seems that it is also somewhat erratic. At times it indicates what I would expect a reading in the middle of the gauge. Other times after running a while it will drop to the lower end (cool) of the gauge and stay there.
I am guessing that the thermostat is sticking open. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they maybe bad? I have a 99 ranger with a 4cyl. It looks like I have two sensors. If one is bad, how can I determine which it is?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
View 7 Replies
I had my 94 Ford Ranger recently repaired, new water pump and coolant. Seems to run okay, but after 10 minute drive, the coolant system loudly thumps and visibly pulses as if there is steam or huge bubbles in the hoses. They are timed irregularly, but about once every 2 seconds and they quickly go away after a minute after shutting off the engin. Water temp is showing normal on the idiot gauge.
View 2 Replies
I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
View 5 Replies
'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
View 6 Replies
Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
View 9 Replies
2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
View 9 Replies
The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
View 16 Replies
What the normal tire pressures are so the TPS will not alarm? The sticker on the door says 65 front and 80 rear for my F-350, but I think this is a bit high when empty or not pulling trailers, etc. Additionally, is there anyway to adjust the TPS settings?
View 10 Replies
