Ford - Ranger :: Lost All Oil Pressure / Power Steering And Engine Died During Highway Driving
May 24, 2015
I was driving down the highway when I lost all oil pressure soon after I lost power steering and the engine died. I have checked the radiator and it is still full of fluid pulled the starter off and try to crank it it still turns the cannot get the engine to turn over it clicks but wont turn over there are no oil leaks underneath the vehicle that I can see. I'm just not sure where to go or what to do from here
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Last night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
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2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
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My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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I have had various issues with my car over the years but on my way home last night my car just died coming down the interstate. It didn't make any noise, it simply kicked off the cruise, the battery light and oil light came on, and I lost gas and power steering. The security light did not come on and my car's forgotten who I am often enough I know how to do the key relearn by heart. My service engine soon light stays on because I no longer have a catalytic converter. When I turn the key over I smell gas (which I can only assume means there's not an issue with my fuel system), everything turns (alternator, belts, etc.) but it doesn't fire.
I had someone suggest that it could possibly be the EGR valve, but when I went to investigate, turns out there isn't one installed on my engine, where it should be there is a metal plate bolted to the "hole". In the past my ignition control module had to be replaced about every 11 months, so I had two and carried the spare in my car. This stopped happening when we finally replaced the entire coil pack. My car has always idled rough (I'm assuming I can attribute this to the lack of EGR valve).
Over the past two weeks it just seemed to get a little worse, it was making noises when accelerating when the car was cold, almost like a whining and the engine was idling hard. When looking for the non-existent EGR valve I did discover my air filter was ridiculously dirty and the air intake is full of oil. The oil was low but not enough to make the engine seize. I know that's a lot of information but was trying to be as clear as possible about previous issues and what I have ruled out. I did read that it could possibly be the CPR, but didn't know and I need it running again.
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Turbo is dead. I knew this day was coming. It died driving down the highway tonight at 55 MPH. Plenty of power since I left the office, all of a sudden the tone of the engine changed to a 6.0L and there was no power at my disposal.
Nursed it home keeping an eye on EGT's and let it soak while I ate supper.
Started it up, let it idle for a minute and tried a few revs but no boost and no turbo whistle.
Garage actually had a very slight haze to it after the test revs so something is broken.
DPF shouldn't be allowing any type of smoke to pass.
Bummer. Now I need a rental so I can get to the airport. Murphy's law has been in effect all day between software upgrades (IT stuff) and now my truck.
No CEL (this is shocking to me) but I found : P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
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2006 f350 6.0..... I was driving for about 10 hours and truck ran fine. Until with no warning it just died. Got it towed home and now I try to start. It turns over fine but no fire.... I know not to use but we used starter fluid to see of it would fire thinking maybe file filter bit still no fire with the starter fluid. I find it weird that it won't fire even on stater fluid. The engine oil was very low as well but since topped it up.
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent (manual) with 140k miles on it that just broke down on me. I was driving to work and after about 10 minutes of driving I go to pull off my exit and I feel it for the first time, my rpms stay steady but the power drops for a few seconds before returning to normal. About 5 minutes later I'm putting around the parking lot and it's having trouble accelerating and reving to the point that it won't really move. I push it to a spot and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before starting it back up in an attempt to get it to a gas station to try and add fuel (quick Google search makes it sound like a fuel pump and the tank is pretty low). It accelerated in fits and makes it about two blocks feeling anemic. Oil changed about 2k miles ago (but is below the L mark on the dip stick when I just checked. I never see leaks though)
The engine ran and idled beautifully before this. No CELs.
Replaced the fuel pump. However, when I opened the port to the fuel pump assembly, there was almost no gas. So I think I might have just run out of gas and the problem was with the gauge.
Now it won't start with ~4 gallons in the tank.
I know the pump functions because I've pulled off the output tube at the pump and it'll spit out gas.
I know there's gas in the fuel rail because I pulled off the input hose.
I pulled off one spark plug to check for spark and it appeared to work.
I checked the resistance at 3/4 of the fuel injectors and they were within spec.
I've checked all the fuses.
I don't get any codes from OBD scanner I borrowed from Autozone (I've disconnected the battery a couple of times though)
I don't have a way to hook up the fuel pressure gauge I borrowed form Autozone because I don't have the adaptor.
Minus the clutch, I've done basically all maintenance myself, although certainly not a great mechanic.
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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My 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
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I think I've tracked my power steering leak to some type of sensor on the pressure line, close to where it connects to the steering box:
I assume this is a pressure sensor? I got no CEL or anything like that when the fluid had leaked down to the level that the pump started whining pretty badly though. As far as I can tell by looking at pictures, the parts store replacement pressure lines do not have this sensor, or any provision to connect a sensor to it: Advance Auto Parts: Power Steering Pressure Hose by Powercraft - Part 71878
I may just put a replacement line on there and leave the sensor plug hanging and see what happens...
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My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
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While driving a mountain road (hwy 17) going downhill this morning I lost power braking and power steering and a got the following error message on the display
TRANSMISSION P LOCK MECHANISM
PARK CAR ON FLAT SURFACE AND APPLY BRAKES
I was able to stop the car on a flat area. I turned the ignition off and then restarted the car and the power steering and brakes came back, but the red triangle remained. I drove to the Toyota dealership and left the car for service.
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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I have a 2003 6.0 when it has having troubles trying to cut out when running low rpms but would throttle out of it then it lost all power cab filled with smoke and died now it does nothing won't even try to turn over everything under the hood is covered in soot I'm ready to pull the cab just wondering if I didn't loose any oil or coolant...
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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