Ford - Ranger :: Kicking Sound In The Transmission When Cruising
Oct 15, 2012
I sold a buddy of mine my dad's old 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with about 100,000 miles. It passed an inspection and was in good condition. Afterwards we both noticed it had a kicking sound in the transmission as you were cruising with it. It was variable but on average about every 20 mins or so. My buddy thought it was probably due to overfilling with fluid so he had it flushed but the problem still remains. He thinks it gets worse as it heats more. We're not sure what the problem is.
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I just bought a 2000 Ranger 4.0, and it runs great. There is "no check engine" light and the mpg are reasonable. My temperature gauge never gets into the normal range, its always low. I believe this is related to the water pump kicking on and off constantly. There is plenty of heat coming from the vents. Do I have a bad thermostat or coolant temperature sensor?
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I was driving at 40 -30 mph on a dark street and rammed through a bit of water ( maybe 4" high and 6 feet across). So right after i got these tranny codes and my tranny went to safe mode kicking hard when shifting:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1783
Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Input Low
P1702
Transmission Concern
Luckily I was a block away from home. So i assumed all those sensors shorted with water ( I thought they were all water proof...hmm) so i let them dry.
So the codes went away and the truck seamed fine for 2 weeks until i felt the tranny kicking again into gears yesterday. So today i went on a test drive and it was fine at first until it went into safe mode again with only 2 codes:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1702
Transmission Concern
So, that means the other sensors dried out and i destroyed the TRS? and if so would it malfunctioning cause the tranny to go into safe mode or could there be some other issue?
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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I have a '97 Ranger with about 120k, 5 spd manual transmission, 2wd. For the last 2-3 months I'm hearing and feeling a clunking or rattling noise (I can't decide which it is) coming from the rear of the vehicle at random times.
I can't really predict or find a pattern of when the noise will happen, but it seems like it is most likely to happen when I'm either accelerating up a hill or when I'm braking relatively hard. It happens whether the clutch is in or out. Doesn't seem to matter. It does NOT happen when idling, only when traveling. I don't ever remember it happening at highway speed (65mph).
If I have my hand on the stick shift I can feel the shaking / rattling as it happens. There seems to be no impact on the performance of the vehicle - no additional trouble shifting into or out of gear, accelerating, or anything else.
On a recent trip I towed a 1,000 lb trailer and I did not feel or hear the noise at all during that trip (about an hour each way). Any guess as to whats going on?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
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I just towed a friends' boat 1500 kms and noticed while walking around with the vehicle running, I could hear what sounded like a slight humming or hissing sound kicking on and off in the rear, almost like an auto-levelling setup. As far as I know the Tiguan's don't come with anything like that. I don't hear it when nothing is hooked up.
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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I've got a 03 x with the 6.8 2wd 4r100. It was flaring pretty bad for a while going into lock up, about 2 months ago the flare went away now NO lockup. Its taking more pedal to get moving and alot more slip, once you reach cruising speed tranny goes into high pressure. Told to replace the selonoid pack, got one use from a tranny shop from a tranny that lost reverse, got it home took mine out and found out the new one is not PWM and mine is, I tested my selonoid by putting 12v to pin 1 and 4 and nothing (on the pwm pack) did it to the new pack and it works. My question is what will happen if I put the non pwm in my tranny that originally had pwm pack in it?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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I'm the proud owner of a 2005 MK4 1.8t gti, and recently it started making a weird sound when it starts kicking in to boost, where it would normally make a whistle sound while the turbo spools up it now makes a sound that reminds me of a supercharged car, it feels like it could be a leak but I don't have an ecl popping up, it does kind of platoes in the powerband, I hope I'm making some sense ..
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I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
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I have a 2010 Passat 2.0T with 42k miles. Since it rolled over 38k on the odometer, I have been having a problem with the tranny dropping down to 5th, sometimes even 4th, while at cruising speeds (80-85 mph...Live in Texas). I notice this mostly on long drives (Ft Worth to San Antonio). The problem usually occurs while in Drive when I punch it to pass. Although, this is not always the case; sometimes it will drop down by simply letting off the accelerator or pushing the brake.
When this happens, I have to manually shift it back into 6th and its a crap shoot if it stays there when I put it back into Drive. This last trip I drove 90% manually because it would not stay in 6th in Drive. After calling the dealer and them telling me that it was probably a cruise problem, I turned off the cruise and drove without it with the same results. I bought this car used with 19k miles; Is the transmission covered under warranty or are there any recalls on this?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 250k mi. Makes the wroh wroh wroh wheel bearing sound, but wheel bearings are new and rock solid. I have been able to feel it through the floorboard and steering wheel for months now. But yesterday, while cruising at about 80MPH on I64, it got worse. Every now and then, I get a clunk clunk clunk mixed in with the wroh wroh wroh and it sounds really bad. When I turn hard left, the sound goes away. When I turn right, It sounds like satan is trying to escape my engine bay. The faster I go, the more violent it gets. No clicking when I turn, so I've ruled out outer CV joint, but was thinking that maybe it was the inner Cv joint?
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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My 2013 GX makes this noise when I step on the gas padel when the speed is 70 mph or higher. It is not very loud but noticeable, even with the radio on. I noticed this these past two days on highway. There is no such sound during local drive or speed below 70. It sounds like it came from the engine compartment, but I am not 100% sure. Is this normal? Could it be from the wheels or chassis? My truck only got 1800 miles after 2 months driving.
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Eco model (1.6T/DCT). driven 17k miles.
My biggest concerns seem to be the DCT transmission. It's....rough to say the least. It jerks and makes terrible noises in parking lots, which can be quite embarrassing if someone else is in the car. Just today, someone said "is your car okay?" I understand that DCT's are different, but I have driven this car since brand new, and it was never this bad.
The car also seems to shift to a gear that is too high for the speed, making the engine vibrate and sound strained while cruising. This problem occurs around 1500 RPM with the gas pedal pressed and just driving along. I can easily reproduce the issue by putting the car in manual mode, selecting the highest gear possible and then trying to accelerate without hitting the kick-down on the accelerator.
I use synthetic oil from the dealer, changed the air filter already, did the fuel injector cleaner additive and also use ethanol free gas.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 150K+ miles on it. Lately the transmission seems "rough" as in it seems to 'thud' randomly when I step on the gas while cruising. I think it's trying to change gears, but I'm not sure. It runs okay, but I feel like I should start thinking about rebuilding the transmission. I have access to a full set of tools and mechanics on hand and about a weeks worth of time. Think I can do it?
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Took the family up into Michigan this weekend to go play out on Silver Lake sand dunes and do some camping up there. We towed our 27ft travel trailer which weighs about 6500-7000lbs so its not to terribly heavy. Well on the way up we were hitting some hills and with the heavy traffic the truck was kicking in and out of OD so i shut it off. Was doing good with everything until we came up to a stop light and there was a big puff of smoke that came out from under the truck.
We pulled over into a gas station and looked at. It looked like trans fluid was coming from the front of the bell housing or the little plug at the bottom of the trans towards the front. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. We let it cool down for about an hour and added a a little fluid to it kept on driving. After that we had no problems with it for the rest of the weekend and that even included the 200 mile trip back home. I left the OD on for the trip back home.
Do you all think the trans is ok and could probably just use a good flush and new coolant or should i take it in somewhere to look at maybe getting it rebuilt? Im gonna add a good trans cooler and gauge to it so i can monitor it a little better. This is all on a 2000 EX v10.
Also, since I have 3.73 gears in this truck and its our dedicated tow rig, would it be wise to swap in some 4.10 or 4.30 gears to support it out a little bit? I know the v10 likes to rev going down the road but want the rest of the truck to last as well. We are looking at getting a bigger camper down the road and want the truck to be able to handle it safely and tow it without struggling as much.
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1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
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