Ford - Ranger :: High RPMs While Idling
Feb 8, 2013
I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
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backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
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I have an '08 Ranger, automatic. For the last several months, the truck has been making an intermittent high-pitched squeal/whine, but only after it has been warmed up (10--15 minutes driving) and only while it is idling. As soon as I'm driving, the whine stops; whine will occur both in drive (but stopped) and in park. The whine will not happen every day I drove, nor will it happen at every stop. When it does squeal, the squeal will fade in and out in volume.
An interesting kicker I've found recently: it seems to be dependent on electrical draw. For example, if I'm sitting idle with the lights on, and the truck is squealing, and then I turn the lights off, it suddenly squeals less. Still squeals, but less than with the lights on.
I have had mechanics check all the usual suspects, belts, etc, but have not found anything amiss. Nor can I actually get the squeal to occur when I visit the mechanics.
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
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My 95 Ford Probe is idling at around 450 RPMs and I'm not sure what the problem is. I have tried replacing the fuel filter already to see if that would work at all and, it didn't After doing some research online I have seen that it could possibly be an Air-Flow sensor.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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I've been having pretty serious issue with my truck lately, and it involves the idle being way to high. The strange thing is, it only idles high after I give it gas. But, the idle (after I lift off the petal completely) is almost as high as the engine speed while I was giving it gas. The carb is a motorcraft 2100 (I just re-built it) with climatic choke.
I've adjusted the choke to no end, and it seemed to have an effect on it at first, but now the problem has just gotten worse. I'm thinking its something in the throttle linkage. Also, when I put my foot under the gas petal and lift up, the idle instantly slows back down. I'm thinking I'm missing a return spring somewhere in the linkage, so heres some photos I took:
I can't drive it like this, and the problem is getting frustrating. It ran fine before I re-built the carb too, except, that it leaked gs all over the place.
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I have a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport with 85000 miles. Just yesterday, it started sputtering while idling, as if I was out of gas, but I'm not. The cabin shakes a bit sporadically with the sputtering sounds. It seemed to go away somewhat when I'm driving, but I could just be confusing it with the bumps in the road. Then, when I'm accelerating, there are occasional pulses in the acceleration. Today, the blinking engine light came on briefly just before I got back home.
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I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
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I have a 95 Celica ST (so it has the 1.8 7A-FE engine). When the AC is turned on and you rev the engine, when the rpms come back down it almost dies.
So say the engine is idling at 700 rpms with the AC on and I rev it up to 2,000 or something. When the rpms drop back down, instead of stopping at like 700 they go all the way down to like 400 or less and it almost stalls out. After a few seconds it comes back up to 700.
What does that sound like? All the vacuum lines are brand new, the throttle body/intake and egr valve were all completely cleaned of any carbon buildup.
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I own a 1999 Ford Ranger. About two weeks ago, the engine started acting up. While the truck is idling, the RPM will drop down very low (like .5) and begin to sputter, then shoots up to about 2-2.5 RPM, then back down to .5. Sometimes it will drop so low that I have to give it a little gas to keep it from going dead (which it has a few times).
The motor has around 150k miles I would say (engine was replaced a few years ago, so the odometer shows higher than the engine). My water pump is also going bad, but I am having that replaced this weekend.
Here is a link to a video I did so y'all can hear/see what's going on [URL] .....
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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so I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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I've been dealing with this for some time now because it hasn't seemed to affect my performance when I am getting on it, but when I am at idle the rpms will surge ever so slightly and i can watch the needle on my boost gauge bouncing up and down. i have a WINtake on the car and it started ever since i installed that. I am wondering what this could be. I've already taken the whole intake out and reinstalled thinking i had a leak somewhere. even tried swapping my maf with a known good one off the lot on a brand new R.
I read somewhere that someone had their maf in backwards. could this be the issue? I don't have any power loss that I am aware of. in fact, if its down on power now, i would have a hard time believing that it could be much faster with what i have done to it. this idle surge will get worse when i have my ac on also. someone make me realize that I am missing something stupid and simple here so i can have a normal idle again. I am half tempted to put my stock intake back on to see but i no longer have the turbo inlet plastic pipe to test it with.
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