Ford - Ranger :: Front And Rear Main Seals Leaking On Rebuilt Engine
Nov 12, 2013
The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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Really noisy rear with leaking axle seals. Looking to swap in a "yard" unit. Mine has 10" shoes. The door sticker says it's a code 86 rear. If I look for a ranger with a code 86, will everything be the same?
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I haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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My wife noticed a puddle of oil on the garage floor when I left the other night and unfortunately, it is coming from my 2002 Prius. I jacked it up today and found the oil was NOT dripping down from the side of the engine, but appeared to be coming out of the hole in the casting between the engine and the transmission. This looks to me like a leak on the main seal on the rear of the engine.
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
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Right after i got this truck it developed an oil leak which i thought was the front main. Turns out after a lot if degreaser and watching its not and its actually leaking from a small tube running out of the passenger side of the engine. I think its an oil cooler line but not sure. Its where the cross member is located and i cant get in there very easily or figure out how to load up pics to the site on my phone. What this line may be?
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I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
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My daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
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As the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200
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I have a 1995 Celica GT, 5sfe engine, 5 speed manual. Front main crank seal appears to be leaking. I've replaced transaxles before but no timing chains or oil seals. Is the access from the wheel well and fairly straightforward?
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I replaced the front mail seal on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It was running beautifully until I put it gear to take a test drive. It dumped half the oil in about a minute. After reading online that there may be a problem with the thrust bearings, I pulled the oil pan and found a thrust bearing in the pan. Is this something I could fix without pulling the engine. Every thing looks good and there are no metal shavings or signs of wear. The car has 170k.
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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I have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
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I got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
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Well, I am getting a vibration In 4x4 99 f250 sd, pinion seals leaking and it has a little bit of movement. I have done a pinion bearing in a crown vic I had before. But not a dana 50. What am I in for, I searched but couldn't find a step by step , how long does it take a back yard guy.
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