Ford - Ranger :: Battery Light On And All Lights Get Bright On Acceleration / Goes Off And Dim On Deceleration
Jan 6, 2012
I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
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April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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Ok - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
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I recently put an accidental extra 4 quarts, and I know hear a low thump ie like a piston but the engine runs fine and there is no power loss, just a simple draining off the pain I hope. The engine runs fine just notice this small metallic rhythmic thump on acceleration, and deceleration.
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I have a 1999 ranger 4x4 with a 3.0. automatic, extra cab.
I have noticed that sometimes (this has happened twice so far) on slowing down, (just letting off the gas) it will make a large clunking popping noise like you hit a large pothole and bottomed the truck out (or if you had hit a small animal) However, both times nothing was in the road way and no damage was done to the truck. both times it has been in 2high.
The truck does not swerve, grab or anything funky other than make a loud CLUNK every now and then.
This has happened when you let off the gas at about 25mph and coast along. (it may be when you apply gentle throttle to keep rolling, but I can't remember, I was not driving the truck this time, the first time it happened was several weeks ago and I put it off as a freak happening). I will check the usual suspects, u joints, ect, but I was wondering if there could be something else happening...vperhaps something in the front diff? or transfer case? It kinda felt like it came from the front of the truck.
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2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
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On deceleration with the brakes (not coast to slow) I get a growling. Sometimes a bit worse than others. Seems to get worse coming up to about 20mph from speed. No other time. I was thinking front wheel bearings as the load up from deceleration. But I just jacked it up and could not find anything that felt or sounded wrong. No play or grind or "bad" feelings in either of the fronts. Front end recently rebuilt, new tires too.
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94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
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Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
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I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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I started to notice my battery light comes on during a hard acceleration. So I have been keeping track of it. When the rpm's hit 3200 and above the light comes on bright but never at any other time. I put a volt meter on it and I have 13.4 volts at an idle, as the engine revs up the voltage climes to 13.9 then when it hits the 3200 mark voltage drops right off to 12.4. It seems like a regulator issue to me. The parts store says my 5.4 has an external regulator is that so or is it built right into the alternator?
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I have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
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02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
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It seems like every time I take a corner or make any sudden acceleration/deceleration that my driver seat seems to shift around--like it's not properly anchored in my car. It's hard to explain...Any aggressive driving around corners and such makes my seat make a slight popping sound, with some slight give. I never had this problem with my mkvi TDI I used to have (although I could never take corners as fast as my R). Also, my seats are already showing wearing on the bolsters (just over 2k miles). I know others have expressed issues with this. What is everyone else doing to remedy this?
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