Ford - Ranger :: Battery Light Coming On Each Time When Stopped At A Red Light
Feb 27, 2011
94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".
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I have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
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I have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Not sure the problem is related.
The horn no longer works. The air bag light is on, on the dashboard.
I have checked all the fuses and they appear to be good.
How would I diagnose this problem?
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Just bought this wagon with 80000 miles. AC just stop working, fans and all. At the same time check engine light came on. Is it worth fixing or will I be facing thousands of dollars for furture repairs for this year car?
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I have an 02 Ranger 4.0 4WD and I have been doing a lot of research to try and figure out why the battery light comes on and off. I was driving the other day down the highway and the battery light came on and voltage gauge dropped. Drive a little further and it goes off, go down hill light comes on, up hill it turns off. (The up and down hill part was probably just a coincidence!) ...
Next day I pulled the alternator and had it tested at O'Reillys and it passed no issues. Yesterday I was driving again the light comes on my way home from the store and stays on for about 3 miles til I got home. Turned my truck off, restarted it later, no light. Today I drove around for a while and about 45 minutes into my driving around the light comes back on and voltage gauge drops and after about a mile it turned off. I stopped by O'Reillys again to have them test the complete charging system and everything passed. On the way home, light comes on again!
So, question is, the battery light was not on when they tested, will that make a difference in the outcome of the tests? I'm guessing not??? Belt looks good, no bad connections that I have found, battery was good...what am I missing? Battery light is still on and voltage low when I start truck after 1.5 hours of being home. Also, I get no magnetism from the alternator when the battery light is on.
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The battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?
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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
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2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
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my 03 ranger 4.0l was working properly and all of a sudden I am having an issue. The battery light is on, and the volt gauge is just above L. With my multi-meter I am showing 14 volts on the output stud on the alternator, and 13.5 volts at the battery while idling. When I turn the lights/fan on I show minimal draw at the battery. Not sure if these are good checks but I figured a good place to start. Where/what should I begin checking?
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Last week while I was on vacation I had the battery light and brake light on the dash both come on at the same time. Just as these came on I was driving through some water on the road from a heavy storm that had happened earlier in the day. As I drove through, the lights came on at the same time and I lost power steering as well, after about 15 - 30 seconds both lights went off and everything was normal. It happened again later that day as well, same scenario, driving through some water, both lights came on, and no power steering. The lights once again went out after a short period, 15 seconds or so. What might be causing this? I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad but I have not seen any other issues, lights dimming or things like that.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 with about 94000 miles.
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After a cold night when I turn the ignition on only the airbag (blinking) and the battery (steady) icons come on. No cranking - nothing...After a few anxious tries the full set of icons come on and the car starts.No problems during the day. The battery is one year old.The 2007 Ranger (3L engine) has 180,000miles.I've tried my spare ignition key - no difference.Is this a PAS issue or a sticking relay?...
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'92 Ranger 2WD, brake and light inspection revealed the warning light isn't coming on. I guess there is a light that would come on in the instrument cluster either when the e-brake is on, or there is a problem in the system. The shop guy says often junk just builds up and prevents it from working; guess I will remove it to clean it up first. Guess it could also be a burned out bulb in the cluster. My Haynes book isn't very good on this.
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When I tried to turn left yesterday, my car suddenly stopped with both the "check engine" light and "battery" light on, but the heat, headlights and radio were working just fine. I turned off the engine, and waiting a few minutes, ad then restarted the car, and everything is fine. I do not drive the car today. My question: is this a problem with the battery or the electric line? When the "battery" light is on, can i conclude it's a problem limited to the electric line only rather than a fuel line. My car is Chevy Malibu, 1999, with 90,000 mileages on it.
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Sometimes my battery light will come on. It started happening about a few weeks ago. At the time i was on the parkway so i couldn't pull over and it was flashing a few times then stopped. It started doing it more often, now it did it around town so i would slow down and i could hear the belt squealing. It just happened again and this time my car sorta lost power but only for a second. Now my question is, how would i check if its
a) alternator,
b) the belt or
c) the tensioner?
Or, I won't know til i start messing with it?
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I have a Prius 2003 with 122k. My inverter water pump making noise it running but i do not see any coolant movement. Does this mean it a bad pump and need to be replace?
My door ajar warning light stay on all the time. I have check door sensors and the trunk lid sensor they all seem to be function. Where the wiring for the door ajar end up to the ECU maybe i can just short or by pass it? This maybe the cause of my 12V battery keep getting drain
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My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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